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LockMD
03-13-2008, 08:36 PM
Most of you probably already figured out to do as I did, use a allen or carbon rod to follow it through so you dont drop anything, yes?

Problem with that method, its hit or miss. Sometimes your follower will slip and you still loose stuff and have to do it the hard way anyhow.

So here is the tip: I have a spare flybar -- the threads on the flybar match the feather shaft. Use the flybar as a follower and you will NEVER slip off again!

Tande
03-13-2008, 10:17 PM
"Excellent!!"

sokal
03-14-2008, 01:47 AM
brilliant!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

LockMD
03-14-2008, 09:41 AM
I found it out by accident when I misplaced the carbon rod I was using I used the flybar and when I was finished it had srewed itself together. So I thought I would share the discovery :)

skigolfmike
03-14-2008, 09:59 AM
Cool! Will use that technique when I take the head apart to try the fuel tubing head dampeners.

gatherman
03-14-2008, 10:13 AM
Now that is a good tip...

GreenBar0n
03-14-2008, 03:42 PM
Nice find LockMD! I'll try this next round.

I have found the flybar itself can be easily replaced by pushing out the old Flybar with the brand new one, those little one way washers between the seesaw and flybar cage are a pain, and pushing out the old with the new keeps everything lined up and makes flybar replacement a snap.

LockMD
03-14-2008, 11:39 PM
OMG replacing the flybar was the worst I've done so far! Please wrap it in bubble paper so I never have to replace it again!

CoptrDoctr
03-16-2008, 04:17 PM
Here's another simple quick solution should the worse case happen and you drop the tiny brass step washers.

1 Remove the 2 screws from one side of the flybar frame and remove the frame end.

2. Remove the old flybar, first brass step washer, head block with flybar seesaw, and the second brass step washer.

3. Insert the new flybar through the opposite flybar frame until about 2mm sticks through.

4. Place a brass step washer onto the flybar with the step side facing the frame then the head block with flybar seesaw.

5. Push the flybar through and an inch beyond the flybar seesaw.

6. Place the remaining brass step washer onto the flybar witht he step side out.

7. Finally thread the flybar through the flybar frame previously removed and secure with the 2 screws.

Note: These flybar frame screws were originally installed using thread lock at the factory and will be difficult to remove so be sure to use the correctly sized crosstip screwdriver on
both ends. Its also a good idea to use fresh threadlock.

Hope this can help someone else frusted by this appearingly simple but delicate task.

LockMD
03-16-2008, 06:44 PM
Okay???? but this tip is about using a flybar to replace the FEATHER SHAFT.


good info too though.

CoptrDoctr
03-17-2008, 07:07 PM
My bad! I saw the mention of the flybar and assumed you were having difficulty with its assembly rather than the feathering spindle shaft tip. Guess I need to read more gooder next time!:hammer

LockMD
03-17-2008, 07:26 PM
LOL no biggie, no troubles here (knock on wood) its actually a 'tip' thread.

Yes, you need to leran to read gooderer

Kindling Maker
03-18-2008, 06:36 AM
Well looks like I am goingto have to use both of these tips when I rebuild the head on mine. I just put it in on the side

LjArpin
03-18-2008, 09:26 PM
I'll give it a try but the Flybar is usually the least of my worries.

LockMD
03-18-2008, 09:29 PM
I'll give it a try but the Flybar is usually the least of my worries.


ITS NOT THE FLYBAR

This is a tip to USE the flybar to replace the FEATHER SHAFT.

rudderman
03-27-2008, 11:54 AM
I tried it this week and it worked sweet i was up flying in a sec .Excellent tip!!!!!!!!!!!!

LockMD
03-27-2008, 11:58 AM
Thank you. Glad I stumbled on it from a stupid mistake LOL

Kindling Maker
03-27-2008, 12:39 PM
I cut the old flybar and put a 90 degree bend in it and it make a great tool.

swooper
04-04-2008, 03:56 PM
Dude, replace the flybar is super easy. all you gotta do is unscrew the allen ones on top of the seesaw, then the flybar is totally loose. Pull the flybar out, until the other end just gets inside the hole. Take the new flybar, put one end into that hole and all you do is push the new flybar in. It's gonna slide in clean, pushing the old one out. Do it nice and slow, you gonna get passed the washers,and next thing you know the old flybar will drop and the new one is in, that easy.

LockMD
04-04-2008, 03:58 PM
Kindling is talking about using a flybar to remove the feather shaft.

swooper
04-04-2008, 05:56 PM
Didn't you say on one of your replies that replacing the fly bar was the worst you've done so far ?

LockMD
04-04-2008, 09:29 PM
Didn't you say on one of your replies that replacing the fly bar was the worst you've done so far ?


Yes I did, back in post #8. If that is what you were responding to it would be much clearer if you quote it. As is, looked like you were responding to Kindling Maker.


But, Yes. Your method of replacing the flybar is very simple provided you have no or minimal damage on one side. I wrapped mine around a pole, both sides were severly bent. Only way to remove was to cut it off with a dremel tool. Once that was done, I pushed it out with the new one.

koyote
04-06-2008, 01:27 AM
What was this thread about Lock?
The flyshaft/feathering bar?:Slap
Just kiddin'

Redfire SVT
05-14-2008, 10:46 PM
Nice find LockMD! I'll try this next round.

I have found the flybar itself can be easily replaced by pushing out the old Flybar with the brand new one, those little one way washers between the seesaw and flybar cage are a pain, and pushing out the old with the new keeps everything lined up and makes flybar replacement a snap.


Good Idea!
My, now old method, was to take one side of the flybar cage loose.

BTW, why did the factory put threadlock on the flybar cage screws?? Are they prone to back out?

Ti RX-8
05-15-2008, 10:11 AM
Good Idea!
My, now old method, was to take one side of the flybar cage loose.

BTW, why did the factory put threadlock on the flybar cage screws?? Are they prone to back out?
Always use threadlock on metal-to-metal threads.