Boom Rudder Clips – How to Secure

[Lad]

Guys,

I’m in the final stages of the build and trying to secure the two boom clips that guide the long rudder link. I’ve seen many suggestions that you simply use a cable tie under the clip ~ here my problem, the clips fit so tightly to the boom I can’t get a cable tie under there, even the thinnest is too thick…

Any ideas, what do you guys do to secure these clips..?

Thx,

L.

[creightoncarr]

If you really work it you should be able to get the tip of a zip tie under the guide. Otherwise a drop of CA work's fine.

[jpappano]

+1 for thin ca, much easier to do.

[kaan.gok]

Put a small section of electrical tape (3cmx1cm) on the boom, slide the clip over the tape, and trim excess tape with an xacto knife for cosmetic reasons :)

[boosst]

I stuck toothpick underneath andbroke it off. Maybe not the best method, but it holds. I was also told that you dont want these at the same plane... One a little higher/lost than the other.

[TheBum]

I took a totally different approach and used o-rings to sandwich the guides and keep them from sliding forward and backward while still allowing them rotational freedom. I haven't flown very many flights using that approach, but I've encountered no problems thus far and the guides have stayed in place.

[stevehonn]

I took a totally different approach and used o-rings to sandwich the guides and keep them from sliding forward and backward while still allowing them rotational freedom. I haven't flown very many flights using that approach, but I've encountered no problems thus far and the guides have stayed in place.

I can see a problem with this, if the guides are free to rotate around the boom, you can get the pushrod flexing sideways which will give lost motion and reduce the effectiveness of the tail.

[gdbontly]

Same problem--couldn't get a zip tie underneath the clip. I also went the CA route and it worked fine.

[TheBum]

I can see a problem with this, if the guides are free to rotate around the boom, you can get the pushrod flexing sideways which will give lost motion and reduce the effectiveness of the tail.
I'm not sure that a rigid mounting is advantageous either. It seems to me that not allowing the guides a little rotation room could cause the pushrod to bind up in the guide holes, increasing the risk of tail twitches. It's nothing more than an experiment at this stage.

[crane guy]

a system w/ a roller and bearings zero friction would be cool

[Bobbyk]

Well I got the CF boom and it's a tight fit, no need for the zip tie, but then again it cost $30. I just like the look of the CF boom, I have it on both the E and N.

Robert

[bmlasater]

fwiw..

Easy fix...Sand the first 3/4 inch of a small zip tie thinner, then slip that end under the guide...line the rod up with the guides to have no bending, pull the thicker part of the tie through with pliers...cut off excess, Bob's yer uncle!
CA doesn't work well on the alum boom, too much gap...Loose guides can lead to binding jamming of the t/r at a bad time...Ask how I know...

John.

[MXRACERX43]

Drill a small hole in the guide (off the boom :thumbup:) and use a bit of ca or 5 min epocy in the hole.:smokin:

[Mercuriell]

Trick is to slide the guide over the tie end and not try to slide the tie under the guide !

[Anthony.L]

I took a totally different approach and used o-rings to sandwich the guides and keep them from sliding forward and backward while still allowing them rotational freedom. I haven't flown very many flights using that approach, but I've encountered no problems thus far and the guides have stayed in place.

This is not a good idea, it will cause tail issues. Try this if you don't believe me. Align all the tail guides in a straight line. Test right and left full throw on the tail servo. Now push one of the guides to the left of right and perform the same servo test again, the end points will be different. Your tail servo end points must stay consistent or the tail performance will not be consistent.

I've always secured my tail guides with a single drop of thin CA and let it wick around the guide. If done right, you can not tell there is any CA, and the guide is solid.

[TheBum]

I've always secured my tail guides with a single drop of thin CA and let it wick around the guide. If done right, you can not tell there is any CA, and the guide is solid.
And you can never move it if you need to. If I were to do anything, I would try bmlasater's suggestion.

[dogfart]

Something nobody has mentioned yet, you can always go with an inanimate carbon rod and toss the guides. I did. It works great, and I never looked back.

[kaan.gok]

Something nobody has mentioned yet, you can always go with an inanimate carbon rod and toss the guides. I did. It works great, and I never looked back.

I did it with my 450, (2mm rod) but the rod flexes too much when pushing the tail slider without a guide. Pulling is no problem. What's the thickness of your rod?

[Anthony.L]

And you can never move it if you need to. If I were to do anything, I would try bmlasater's suggestion.

Wrong, if you only use a single drop like I suggested you can easily twist the guide to "pop" the CA loose. Then you can move it, and re-glue.

[dogfart]

Mine is 4mm. I also have the metal push rod inside it.