View Full Version : Need some opinions on a power dump
Big Fil
04-01-2008, 02:55 AM
cool, make sure you let us know your impressions when you get it.
ozace
04-02-2008, 01:26 AM
its here. :clappp
Unfortunatly the progcard 2 isnt here yet so i dont know what the differences are between it and the original.
The outer case is some sort of plastic with an exposed aluminium heatsink of sorts exposed on the rear. This new packaging should make for easier mounting as its a rectangle with flat surfaces.
OICU812
04-02-2008, 03:00 AM
Cool, what is the actual weight of this esc? I ask as their specs on site look off, please clarify if you have a scale Adam. Thx! :thumbup:
Klinger
04-02-2008, 03:20 AM
that looks awesome oz, whats the slave channel do and what does the ESD markings on the indent mean?
ozace
04-02-2008, 03:20 AM
(bathing kids now)
I will get a pic on the scale when i get some peace
Klinger
04-02-2008, 03:23 AM
that looks awesome oz, whats the slave channel do and what does the ESD markings on the indent mean?
sorry just was it says LED not ESD, :arggg:
ozace
04-02-2008, 03:31 AM
sorry just was it says LED not ESD, :arggg:
LED :thumbup: As the outercase is sealed i guess they needed to let us know where to look for light:YeaBaby:.
Master and slave ports are for the bec powerbus. The master is the throttle lead and as this is claimed to have a 5 amp (15amp spike ) bec they suggest using the slave port to run to an empty reciever slot to share the load.
From the manual the programming look very Jazz like. Unlike the PJ these can be stick prgrammed and are also compatible with prog card 1 and the new prog card 2.:clappp
LITHIUMSTATIC
04-02-2008, 03:51 AM
Looks beefy. Very cool Ozace!! :thumbup:
OICU812
04-02-2008, 04:32 AM
LED :thumbup: As the outercase is sealed i guess they needed to let us know where to look for light:YeaBaby:.
Master and slave ports are for the bec powerbus. The master is the throttle lead and as this is claimed to have a 5 amp (15amp spike ) bec they suggest using the slave port to run to an empty reciever slot to share the load.
From the manual the programming look very Jazz like. Unlike the PJ these can be stick prgrammed and are also compatible with prog card 1 and the new prog card 2.:clappp
Awesome, that can't get the HVs out quick enough though! I need more than a few of these darn HVs''''''!!! :arggg:
ozace
04-02-2008, 04:37 AM
agree on the HV thing. I am looking forward to them turning up.
The LV arrived unannounced so i couldnt get an answer on the HV aside from the May timeframe Mike gave us.
ozace
04-02-2008, 04:48 AM
:wow2:its a fatty compared to the Jazz 80
Klinger
04-02-2008, 05:17 AM
:wow2:its a fatty compared to the Jazz 80
not much differnece considering it full expoxied body. So glad the prog card 1 will work with it, cant wait!
ozsteel
04-08-2008, 07:20 AM
Got this reply from an email I sent to Kontronik.....rather dissapointing seeing that my local hobby shop in Australia recommended it.
"The Jazz55-6-18 is much too small for a 1300kv Motor at 6s Lipos. The BEC can't provide enough power for 4 Digital Servos too. Please attach an aditional RX-Battery. It would be better to replace the Jazz55-6-18 with our brand new Jive80+LV (80A const. current 5A/15A BEC unit).
Best regards
Sebastian Hussels
-------------------------------------------------------
KONTRONIK GmbH
Etzwiesenstr. 35/1
D-72108 Rottenburg
Telefon +49 7457 94350 · Fax +49 7457 943590 Vertretungsberechtigter
Geschäftsführer: Harald Konrath
Handelsregister: Amtsgericht Stuttgart HRB390410
Steuernummer: 86114/97803
Umsatzsteuer-Identifikationsnummer: DE164110931 WEEE-Reg.-Nr.
DE95985619
-------------------------------------------------------"
More good news....after emailing my local hobby shop www.perthrc.com.au a copy of the above email the guys really came to the party. They gave me a full refund - no questions asked - on the Jazz 55-6-18 and sent me a Jive 80+LV. So now they've got a completely committed customer - for life!
It's great to know that there are still suppliers out there with integrity.
I'll let you all know how I get on with the new ESC.
Big Fil
04-08-2008, 10:16 AM
Cool, glad your LHS stepped up and handled it well.:thumbup:
ozsteel
04-26-2008, 03:53 AM
Installed the Jive80+LV earlier this week and upgraded my set-up from a Futaba 6EX to a 12FGH 2.4GHz Mode 2 - all good.
Ran one battery (6S 5000mAh Flightpower) with zero pitch to test the ESC and got 1,150rpm at 60% - 17 teeth on a mod 0.5 main gear. All seemed to be going well and then tried my other battery - exactly the same as the first and......nothing! Went back to the first which was at 21.5V so still had some left in the tank and it spooled up fine - all the right sigmals in the right places. Back to Battery 2 and......nothing!
I am running the Jive in Lipo mode so on battery 1 I get the classic start-up signal and then 6 short beeps in couples which tells me (or so I understand from the manual) the Jive is seeing a 6s Lipo. On battery 2 I get the same start-up tones - motor moves slightly with each tone as before - but I DON'T get the 6 short beeps in couples like I do with battery 1. Also noticed that the Jive LED is blinking three times between pauses.
Just when I though I had it all sorted and now something else! This is toooo hard - I ca't seem to get everything working at the same time.
Any ideas?
ozace
04-26-2008, 04:05 AM
What does the manual say about the 3 beeps ?
I never use "lipo" modes or LVC settings (i dont trust them) so i cant help , that and the heli my Jive is destined for hasnt arrived yet.
ozsteel
04-26-2008, 09:03 AM
What does the manual say about the 3 beeps ?
The manual says that once the three beeps - descending in pitch - sound then the motor is ready to use.
I get the three beeps on both batteries; I only get the 6 short beeps (in 3 pairs to signal 6S) from one of the batteries.
Both batteries are new - about 5 cycles each. Both charge up to 25.2V and have never been below 18.0V Typically not below about 21V and both seem to take the required amount of charging.
I use a Schulze isl 6-330d charger and a Flightpower balancer after each charge cycle - both batteries post balance well. Always charge at 1C - 5.0A for the 5000mAh batteries I've got.
So I think I'm doing everything I should be.
So what's the problem?
Big Fil
04-26-2008, 10:27 AM
Your going too low on your batteries even at 21V. You generally want to not see resting voltages below 22-22.2V after you fly. If you went to 18V you went wayyyy too far down. There's a good chance you thrashed your batteries.
ozsteel
04-26-2008, 10:48 AM
The batteries both appear to be in good shape - they are both charging fine - taking the full charge and holding it. Getting up to 25.2V and taking in 4000mAh odd each on each charge. I can't believe that the one battery is trashed. How sensitive are Flightpower batteries. If the battery is trashed then it's way to tempramental - almost impossible to use and thats not the impression I get from all of you guys.
ozace
04-26-2008, 07:05 PM
It is strange, each time you use pack"a" it works but pack "b" doesnt. It does sound like pack "b" is the problem and not the esc.
ozsteel
04-27-2008, 03:15 AM
It is strange, each time you use pack"a" it works but pack "b" doesnt. It does sound like pack "b" is the problem and not the esc.
So either the ESC is looking for something in pack "b" that it "finds" in pack "a" - I get the start-up beeps on both packs but not the LiPo recognition....OR pack "b" has a problem as you suggest.
Also there is the ESC LED blinking three times - what does that mean?
Maybe more info will help you guys help me...
Pack "b" was fully charged but not used for about 2 weeks. Pack "a" was left for the two weeks about half-full. Should I discharge pack "b" using my Shulze and recharge it - will this help? I can only fly at weekends and that's not every weekend so there will be times when the packs will site idle for two maybe even three weeks.
As you guys know, these packs are expensive so I don't want to do the wrong thing but surely they are more robust than this?
Thanks for considering my problem...
ozace
04-27-2008, 04:52 AM
I am baffled, If the packs are equal (or close to ) there shouldnt be an issue.
If however pack "A" always works and pack "B" doesnt then to me it sugests a pack problem.
Maybe try to disable the lipo mode in the esc and see if the "B" pack starts up. It may be a very tight voltage tolerance that allows the lipo mode to activate things.
ozsteel
04-28-2008, 07:32 AM
I am baffled That makes two of us!
OzAce in your opinion what does leaving a fully charged LiPo for two or three weeks do to the pack? That's the only difference in the two pack I have.
Maybe you can clear something else up for me. What is the consequence of running a LiPo pack to 100% capacity - ie. 18V or putting 5,000mAh back into a 5,000mAh pack? Does it kill the pack or just shorten it's life? and by how much? Is the answer the same if you only do it once or does it need to be done multiple times to wreck the pack? If multiple - how may times?
Too many questions I know but maybe it will help more than me to have the answers.
Thanks....
Funflyer
04-28-2008, 09:26 AM
Yeah, I'm interested in those questions too. I'm about to invest in 6s packs and I want them to stay nice and strong.
But from what I've read, when you go over 80% discharge you start changing the chemistry of the pack which is permanent damage. It will still work, but you shorten it's lifespan. If you go to 100%...I have no idea, probably puffed at a minimum. Hopefully someone else chimes in here too.
OICU812
04-28-2008, 12:19 PM
Well I can tell you with 100% confidence that you do NOT want to go over 80% period. You WILL in fact damage the cell plates and the performance WILL deteriorate, without question. If you do fly a pack "Lithium Polymer" to 100% of its capacity you can consider that pack a borrowed time pack, it is likely to not work at all or very poorly for certain.