Phoenix 60

[skydude]

The CC replacement for the burned out Hobby Wing Pent opto-60 (Had a definite stink to it upon removing the canopy) showed up today. It seems fragile. The HW was encased in a metal box. Looked rugged. Turned out to not be so.

I am a little worried about this CC 60. Are people just strapping it on to the esc bracket as is or would a little constructive packaging be wise? The little black components would either be getting crushed by a couple of tie-wraps or squished up against the frame bracket if attached as is.

Any kind of padding is going to affect the cooling.

It also says do not use normal 'current limiting' for heli's but it does not suggest which setting to use????

Would insensitive or disabled be the choices?

I have resisted buying the cable for programming with the smaller CC's. I kind of enjoy playing the beeps but I just might bite the bullet connector and get the cable. (I hate spending money. I want to retire one of these days)

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[istandalone]

you hate to spend money, yet your into this as a hobby? that makes no sense lol. for $20, the castle link is a great buy. there are so many more parameters that you can tune and adjust with it., that you can't without it.
when you're refering to the current limiting, your talking about the lipo safety cut-off? i set mine for soft cut, and if i do go too far with my packs it ramps down power gently and you can safely get her on the ground.

[istandalone]

oh yea, i just put a few layers of thick double sided tape on the esc mount, and used one of the big black removable zip ties that were included in the h550 kit.

[skydude]

This has low voltage cut-off as setting 6, but setting 2 is called current limiting. Big "yellow triangle !!! Change this setting at your own risk". Has 5 choices - 1 thru 5. 3 is normal - "recommended for all systems except helicopters.
1 is Very Sensitive "will rapidly shut down when over current is detected
5 is Disabled "Use at your own risk"
Nothing like giving dire warnings and saying what not to do and not offering what the heli to do.

The throttle settings are very confusing in the on-line instructions if I do not want to use governor.
"Start with 'Heli: Fixed endpoint mode. In 'Heli: Fixed Endpoint' adjust......
I guess this is setting 4 - Throttle type - 2) fixed throttle?


And then there is a "Helicopter Throttle settings note - Selecting any helicopter-specific throttle setting also changes voltage 'Cut Off type to 'Soft Cut Off' and disables all brake functions. However, these setting changes are not reflected in the 'Cut Off'' type' or the 'Brake' settings."

the throttle type is setting 4 but it is not helicopter specific as both of 2 settings say 'Any fixed wing aircraft'

Maybe this will make more sense in the morning. Maybe not.

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[skydude]

you hate to spend money, yet your into this as a hobby? .

Well, this did START OUT as a hobby, actually more as a 'I have always thought I wanted to 'try' that. It seems to have transcended that by a wide margin. I know I am having a really whole bunch of fun, but the obsession has me almost questioning whether this is healthy or not. (almost questioning).

I do hate to spend money, on things that give absolutely no return or value. I guess 'waste' would be a better description than spend.

I have to admit - whenever I do come into some money I seem to spend most of it on heli stuff. The rest I do waste.

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[istandalone]

I have to admit - whenever I do come into some money I seem to spend most of it on heli stuff. The rest I do waste.

don't we all! i'll post my phoenix settings below.
brake ramp- immediate (but i believe this function is obsolete when using heli fixed endpoints)
cutoff voltage- auto lipo*
hex 55- 85 (idk what the hell this is)
brake strength- 0
direction- forward
spoolup speed- 6
throttle type- heli fixed endpoints (when this is selected, all brake functions will be over ridden, any heli setting turns off braking)
current limiting- disabled
brake delay- .6 sec (but this doen't matter, brake is over-ridden)
motor start power- 59
throttle response- 7
motor timing- standard advance
cutoff type- soft cutoff
pwm rate- 22khz
gov gain- 50 (default setting, i don't think this matters unless your in gov mode)

[istandalone]

i've heard nothing but good things about gov mode on cc escs. but, with my limited skills i doubt i'd benefit. with my gentle flying style, the HS stays constant enough with a flat curve. once i get into some demanding flying, i'll activate gov mode. right now, it's just overkill- for me anyway.

[Pinecone]

With fixed endpoints, the ESC memorizes the throttle pulse legnth for high and low stick and keeps using them.

You don't want a brake on a heli.

The current limiting is if the motor starts drawing more current than the ESC is designed for, what will it do. If it cuts all power, then you will have a forced auto. Better to damage the ESC than crash the heli.

Extra instructions on Castle site: http://www.castlecreations.com/support/documents/Castle%20Link%201.51%20Beta%20Info%20v5.pdf

[istandalone]

so with current limiting disabled, that means it'll cut all power? or that means it'll fry the esc?

[mysticmead]

means it'll fry the ESC...

[istandalone]

i guess i'd rather fry a $100 esc then crash a $500 heli.

[skydude]

hex 55- 85 (idk what the hell this is)
motor start power- 59
throttle response- 7
motor timing- standard advance
pwm rate- 22khz


What was your criteria for using .......pwm rate - 22 khz ????

Motor start power - 59. I assume this is when you first go from bottom stick to start spoolup? If so, this setting is slow enough to not kick the tail around?

Instructions say - Low Advance - recommended for outrunner motors.
I assume you are using an outrunner. Some esc's have recommendation based on number of poles.
This is not the case here. Did you have a reason to use standard rather than low advance?

I did not get "hex" button. Not that I have noticed anyway.

I ended up loadiing the software from the disc that came with the esc. I had downloaded the software from on-line but it would not recognize that the link was plugged in. After cd software recognized link it suggested I download latest firmware. Went with 1.56 (Beta). Not sure I want the (being tested version).

Thanks for your suggestions Istandalone.

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[istandalone]

yea motor start power is the power the motor initially has upon spool up from 0 rpm. no, it doesn't kick the tail either. i've got some pretty tacky skid nuts on it though, so it's not really going to kick i don't think. idk if a high motor start pwr would make it kick, or if a higher spool up speed will cause that.
my reason for changing the pwm rate was that i read what it does, and it says a higher rate might make more power. or something like that. when you're changing your settings with the cc link and click on the ? over each menu it'll explain in detail what each setting does. i didn't catch that low advance was recomended for outrunners, though. i'll have to change that. i wonder why that is?
idk what this hex setting is either. maybe it's just something that has shown up when i open my saved settings in text form.

[skydude]

That prior esc obviously had a problem from the get go. Changing nothing else on the heli this CC flew right on with no power drop out. Sometimes I just don't know if I am reading things right or causing the screwups myself.

This CC works pretty well but I still want to dial in a softer start. Tail kiciks around up to 6 inches at spool up. I think I even went the next step down (39? lowest) from your 59 standalone. Will have to putz some more in the a.m. Maybe it lies in the power (rate?) something.

That recommendation for low advance for outrunners is in the paper manual that came with my esc. Can you trust something that is written on paper? (you know, like papyrus)

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[istandalone]

check your thread in the main heli forum, i answered some things that are a posssible issues. i'll likely leave my timing alone, it runs cool and strong on standard advance, although i might extend my flight times even more with low advance.