Shortman
07-20-2005, 09:43 AM
Arizona Regulator
Dual Voltage Output Helicopter Regulator and Switch for Lithium Batteries
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/ArizonaHelicopterRegulator.jpg
Instructions:
The Arizona Regulator has 5 leads, labeled as follows:
BTTY - Battery lead, plug into Li + battery, observing correct polarity.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/BatteryLead.jpg
CHK - Male JR plug, can be used for charging and checking the attached battery.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/ChargingChecklead.jpg
SW - Male JR plug, may be used for a switch. Closed contacts turn the regulator OFF, and open contacts turn the regulator ON (“failsafe” configuration).
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/Switchwire.jpg
GYRO RDDR - Connect to rudder channel on RX. This takes signal from the RX and also provides power (adjustable voltage) to the RX.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/GyroRudder.jpg
GYRO GAIN - Connect to gain channel on RX. Takes signal from RX, also provides power to RX.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/GyroGain.jpg
The Arizona Regulator has 2 three-pin connectors, for plugging the gyro leads into the regulator. One is labeled “GYRO GAIN”, and the other is labeled “GYRO RDDR”. When viewing the regulator from the top, and with the wires pointing toward you, ensure that the gyro plugs are oriented so that the wires are “NEGATIVE”, “POSITIVE”, and “SIGNAL”, as viewed from left to right:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/GyroGain-Rddr.jpg
VOLTAGE for the gyro is set to 5 volts, and cannot be changed.
VOLTAGE to power the RX (and other servos) can be adjusted between 4.95 and 6.25V, as follows: Turn on the Arizona Regulator. Observe the RX voltage on a meter. Observe that there are two pins sticking out the right side of the regulator, near the top. By carefully bridging the two pins with a conductive object (e.g. paper clip); the voltage will start to cycle up and down across its range. When you stop adjusting for more than 2 seconds, the new set point voltage is saved. Verify the new set point is saved, by turning the regulator off and back on again, and observing the desired voltage. Please do not touch the pins to the heat sink while adjusting. This may cause damage only if the protective blue anodized finish has been scratched.
PLEASE NOTE:
Arizona Regulator draws a small amount of power in the OFF position, if it is being used as a switch. This current is <= 85 microamps, or .000085A. The battery will deplete by roughly 2mA-h per day, when the regulator is used as a switch. Batteries should be unplugged for extended lay-ups or idle periods (i.e. > 1month)
Specifications:
- Capable of delivering up to 15A into a 6V load, given 1.5A to the gyro and when using a 2S2P Li+ pack
- Power (no airflow): 17 watts
- Power (1/m sec airflow): 28 watts
- Load Regulation/droop (max): 0.05 volts
- Voltage output: 5V gyro and 5 to 6.25V (adjustable on servos and RX)
- Off state current: <=84uA (2mA-h/day)
- Mass (regulator + wires): 43 grams
- Mass (mounting plate); 7 grams
Set Up and Use:
There are several important things to consider when purchasing a Lithium powered system for your helicopter. First, will it work with the battery or equipment you have? Will it fit? What is the benefit of using this product over another proven device? How will you mount it securely to your helicopter? What does it weight, and finally are there any new features that your helicopter can greatly benefit from?
Size:
Here is the good part. The Arizona Regulator eliminates the need of a separate mechanical switch and extra connectors, simplifying installation and eliminating possible switch failures in your helicopter; whereas the typical Li-Ion/Poly setup requires a voltage regulator, a mechanical switch, and if you want to make a fair comparison to the Arizona regulator; a separate 5.0V voltage regulator for your gyro and servo. The weight of the Arizona regulator to those weight watchers out there may seem heavy, but comparing it to two separate regulator systems is almost identical. For this I weighed 2 smart fly voltage regulators at .5 ounces each, and a super switch added roughly another ounce and were looking at roughly 2 ounces on an accurate digital fish scale. Compared to the 50 gram Arizona regulator, the discrepancy in a few grams is minute in my opinion
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/SizeComparison.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/SmartFlyvsArizonaHeliRegsetup.jpg
Failsafe:
Another handy part of this regulator is the two blue LED lights that let you know the regulators are in fact functioning; I have yet to see any other regulator with this added feature. Space is a commodity on any helicopter, mounting a gyro, governor, switch, regulator, etc. space can run out fast, the Arizona regulator is an all in one unit, having the built in failsafe switch, 2 regulators combined saves the precious commodity of space In your helicopter. One of the biggest concerns with helicopter pilots is electronic failure. No more worries, with the Arizona helix regulator, if the built in failsafe switch FAILS in flight or anywhere for that matter, it fails in the on position allowing you to bring your helicopter down safely leaving the regulators on as well. If this were to happen the regulators would be stuck in the on position letting you know of a problem. This is a very big plus in my book as helicopters could use all the extra failsafe devices they can get, especially without added complexity or weight.
What battery to use?
Here there are several options to choose from. Whether it’s a 6V NiCad /NiMH pack or a Lithium Ion 2S, or 2S2P Li Poly pack, they will all work with this Arizona regulator. The maximum allowed cell count for Li Ion/Poly however is 2 cells. For my set up I am using a True RC 15C 2S2P 2000mah Lithium Polymer battery. It will save several ounces in weight over the traditional NiCad/NiMH set-ups and offer better performance and added flights to a comparable NiCad pack. This is the main reason many choose to go the Li Ion/Polymer route instead of the heavier NiCad/NiMH. A regulator such as the Fromeco unit provides your servos and receiver with a constant 6.0V voltage giving you the maximum performance in your helicopter; another essential for those would want the most out of their current system.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/TrueRCLiPoly.jpg
Performance:
Flying the Arizona Heli Regulator with 6V on your servos and RX will increase the speed and torque of your servos. Doing so you may notice an increase in response, especially your collective causing the servo to feed your collective servo faster than the engine can respond (depending on what servo your using). The added speed and torque are a nice welcome to those looking for the absolute maximum performance in their helicopter. For those wondering if its okay to run 6V on your servos and RX, please be aware that Futaba and other companies have different voltage guidelines for their products. Although they recommended 4.8V for their Futaba 9252 digitals, I am running them currently at 6V without a problem, and for added comfort, I have used the 9252 in airplanes on 6V for years without problems.
Overheating and other neat features:
Here came the real test... some regulators I have used in the past tend to have problems with heat dissipation. Summers in Fresno, California, just to give you an example, are normally in the 100s. This past week, the temperatures were as low as 107F and as high as 119F (yes thats right). Needless to say, if there were going to be heating problems, surely it would show through here. Needless to say, running all digitals on board the Arizona Heli Regulator lived up to its expectations. The regulator remained cool to the touch with no signs of excessive heat. Another first for me, was Fromeco's featured circuit board protective conformal coating, helping to withstand the two-stroke environment. I have not had a problem to date with other regulators regarding this issue, but it's nice to know that Fromeco is pushing technology further, improving upon an already awesome product. To add on that, the mounting plate to which the Arizona Heli Regulator is attached, is made of chemical-resistant Delrin and features a vibration-isolating protective mounting plate, reducing fatigue from engine and other harmful vibrations. The people at Fromeco have really done their homework.
UBEC vs. Arizona Heli Regulator?
This is a brief comparison between the UBEC (a switching regulator), ant the Fromeco Arizona regulator (linear regulator).
Kool Flight UBEC:
• The UBEC will give you longer flight time for the same amount of battery weight.
• The UBEC should be used with a 3S or higher LiPo or Li-Ion battery.
• The UBEC has a non-adjustable output voltage.
• The UBEC requires the use of a switch
Fromeco Arizona Helicopter Regulator:
• The Fromeco regulators will dissipate more heat for the same input voltage and output voltage and current.
• The Fromeco should be used with a 2S LiPo or Li-Ion battery. The UBEC is one-third the weight of the Fromeco regulators.
• The Fromeco regulators have a higher current capacity. The Fromeco regulators have adjustable output voltage (a fixed and an adjustable on the new Arizona model).
• The Fromeco regulators are available with a built-in fail-safe switch.
Independent User Efficiency Testing:
Regulator at 5.4V
Using the UBEC, --- 71% efficiency, 3S1P 2100 pack = 18.8 wh - 5.4oz
Using the Fromeco, 44% efficiency, 3S1P 2100 pack = 11.6 wh - 6.2oz
Using the Fromeco, 64% efficiency, 2S1P 2100 pack = 11.3 wh - 4.7oz
(Special thanks to Wolfgang Franke for the efficiency testing)
Troubleshooting and FAQ:
After surfing the forums and finding common questions or concerns others have, I have decided to try and put together a troubleshooting/FAQ addendum to this review to help others with any misconceptions they may have.
1) So how do I set it up? Before I was just using the battery that came with my radio and the "on/off" switch (mechanical switch).
Just take the lead that you would normally plug back into the RX and solder the positive and negative wires together. This will "close" the switch and you can use it just fine. The other alternative, and in my opinion best thing to do though is order the Pin/Flag switch from Fromeco; 7.95 and it is worth every penny. Very simple and easy to use.
2) Running the switch in between the battery and regulator.
While this method does work, you are basically circumventing the failsafe feature of the Reliaswitch. In this case, if the switch were to fail, the regulator WILL TURN OFF. The above method of soldering the positive and negative wires together is a much better option and you could even twist the wires together if you prefer to not solder, even if the wires were to come untwisted and lose contact with each other, the regulator will remain on.
3) Ok - that sounds good. But when I use a regular switch it doesn't work. Reading here sounds like I have to solder something. I'm not sure what I have to solder. Can someone post pictures and a detailed explanation of what needs soldering please? It must be the lead that goes from the switch to the RX? But if the other leads plug directly into the RX with power why plug the switch into the RX? Does the switch just turn the regulator on and off?
You can just plug and unplug the battery if that works for you. The easiest way to "fix" the switch is to do just what I said above. Take the + and - leads off the switch to RX lead and wire them together. You don't even really have to solder them as an intermittent connection is not going to cause the regulator to turn off in flight. You can tape them together and get the same results.
4) What about the Pin/Flag switch?
The pin/flag plugs into the lead marked "SW" on the regulator. It then replaces the switch as I have pictured here. When the pin is in the regulator is off. Pull the pin and the regulator is on.
*Special thanks to Jason for the pictures
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/ArizonaRegulatorPic3.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/ArizonaRegulatorPic2.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/ArizonaRegulatorPic.jpg
I would like to thank Kurt and Mike at Fromeco for this exciting new product in their line up. Thanks to the Helifreak moderating team and the users for making this place awesome. I hope you enjoy the review and find it very useful.
Steven Carroll
Dual Voltage Output Helicopter Regulator and Switch for Lithium Batteries
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/ArizonaHelicopterRegulator.jpg
Instructions:
The Arizona Regulator has 5 leads, labeled as follows:
BTTY - Battery lead, plug into Li + battery, observing correct polarity.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/BatteryLead.jpg
CHK - Male JR plug, can be used for charging and checking the attached battery.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/ChargingChecklead.jpg
SW - Male JR plug, may be used for a switch. Closed contacts turn the regulator OFF, and open contacts turn the regulator ON (“failsafe” configuration).
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/Switchwire.jpg
GYRO RDDR - Connect to rudder channel on RX. This takes signal from the RX and also provides power (adjustable voltage) to the RX.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/GyroRudder.jpg
GYRO GAIN - Connect to gain channel on RX. Takes signal from RX, also provides power to RX.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/GyroGain.jpg
The Arizona Regulator has 2 three-pin connectors, for plugging the gyro leads into the regulator. One is labeled “GYRO GAIN”, and the other is labeled “GYRO RDDR”. When viewing the regulator from the top, and with the wires pointing toward you, ensure that the gyro plugs are oriented so that the wires are “NEGATIVE”, “POSITIVE”, and “SIGNAL”, as viewed from left to right:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/GyroGain-Rddr.jpg
VOLTAGE for the gyro is set to 5 volts, and cannot be changed.
VOLTAGE to power the RX (and other servos) can be adjusted between 4.95 and 6.25V, as follows: Turn on the Arizona Regulator. Observe the RX voltage on a meter. Observe that there are two pins sticking out the right side of the regulator, near the top. By carefully bridging the two pins with a conductive object (e.g. paper clip); the voltage will start to cycle up and down across its range. When you stop adjusting for more than 2 seconds, the new set point voltage is saved. Verify the new set point is saved, by turning the regulator off and back on again, and observing the desired voltage. Please do not touch the pins to the heat sink while adjusting. This may cause damage only if the protective blue anodized finish has been scratched.
PLEASE NOTE:
Arizona Regulator draws a small amount of power in the OFF position, if it is being used as a switch. This current is <= 85 microamps, or .000085A. The battery will deplete by roughly 2mA-h per day, when the regulator is used as a switch. Batteries should be unplugged for extended lay-ups or idle periods (i.e. > 1month)
Specifications:
- Capable of delivering up to 15A into a 6V load, given 1.5A to the gyro and when using a 2S2P Li+ pack
- Power (no airflow): 17 watts
- Power (1/m sec airflow): 28 watts
- Load Regulation/droop (max): 0.05 volts
- Voltage output: 5V gyro and 5 to 6.25V (adjustable on servos and RX)
- Off state current: <=84uA (2mA-h/day)
- Mass (regulator + wires): 43 grams
- Mass (mounting plate); 7 grams
Set Up and Use:
There are several important things to consider when purchasing a Lithium powered system for your helicopter. First, will it work with the battery or equipment you have? Will it fit? What is the benefit of using this product over another proven device? How will you mount it securely to your helicopter? What does it weight, and finally are there any new features that your helicopter can greatly benefit from?
Size:
Here is the good part. The Arizona Regulator eliminates the need of a separate mechanical switch and extra connectors, simplifying installation and eliminating possible switch failures in your helicopter; whereas the typical Li-Ion/Poly setup requires a voltage regulator, a mechanical switch, and if you want to make a fair comparison to the Arizona regulator; a separate 5.0V voltage regulator for your gyro and servo. The weight of the Arizona regulator to those weight watchers out there may seem heavy, but comparing it to two separate regulator systems is almost identical. For this I weighed 2 smart fly voltage regulators at .5 ounces each, and a super switch added roughly another ounce and were looking at roughly 2 ounces on an accurate digital fish scale. Compared to the 50 gram Arizona regulator, the discrepancy in a few grams is minute in my opinion
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/SizeComparison.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/SmartFlyvsArizonaHeliRegsetup.jpg
Failsafe:
Another handy part of this regulator is the two blue LED lights that let you know the regulators are in fact functioning; I have yet to see any other regulator with this added feature. Space is a commodity on any helicopter, mounting a gyro, governor, switch, regulator, etc. space can run out fast, the Arizona regulator is an all in one unit, having the built in failsafe switch, 2 regulators combined saves the precious commodity of space In your helicopter. One of the biggest concerns with helicopter pilots is electronic failure. No more worries, with the Arizona helix regulator, if the built in failsafe switch FAILS in flight or anywhere for that matter, it fails in the on position allowing you to bring your helicopter down safely leaving the regulators on as well. If this were to happen the regulators would be stuck in the on position letting you know of a problem. This is a very big plus in my book as helicopters could use all the extra failsafe devices they can get, especially without added complexity or weight.
What battery to use?
Here there are several options to choose from. Whether it’s a 6V NiCad /NiMH pack or a Lithium Ion 2S, or 2S2P Li Poly pack, they will all work with this Arizona regulator. The maximum allowed cell count for Li Ion/Poly however is 2 cells. For my set up I am using a True RC 15C 2S2P 2000mah Lithium Polymer battery. It will save several ounces in weight over the traditional NiCad/NiMH set-ups and offer better performance and added flights to a comparable NiCad pack. This is the main reason many choose to go the Li Ion/Polymer route instead of the heavier NiCad/NiMH. A regulator such as the Fromeco unit provides your servos and receiver with a constant 6.0V voltage giving you the maximum performance in your helicopter; another essential for those would want the most out of their current system.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/TrueRCLiPoly.jpg
Performance:
Flying the Arizona Heli Regulator with 6V on your servos and RX will increase the speed and torque of your servos. Doing so you may notice an increase in response, especially your collective causing the servo to feed your collective servo faster than the engine can respond (depending on what servo your using). The added speed and torque are a nice welcome to those looking for the absolute maximum performance in their helicopter. For those wondering if its okay to run 6V on your servos and RX, please be aware that Futaba and other companies have different voltage guidelines for their products. Although they recommended 4.8V for their Futaba 9252 digitals, I am running them currently at 6V without a problem, and for added comfort, I have used the 9252 in airplanes on 6V for years without problems.
Overheating and other neat features:
Here came the real test... some regulators I have used in the past tend to have problems with heat dissipation. Summers in Fresno, California, just to give you an example, are normally in the 100s. This past week, the temperatures were as low as 107F and as high as 119F (yes thats right). Needless to say, if there were going to be heating problems, surely it would show through here. Needless to say, running all digitals on board the Arizona Heli Regulator lived up to its expectations. The regulator remained cool to the touch with no signs of excessive heat. Another first for me, was Fromeco's featured circuit board protective conformal coating, helping to withstand the two-stroke environment. I have not had a problem to date with other regulators regarding this issue, but it's nice to know that Fromeco is pushing technology further, improving upon an already awesome product. To add on that, the mounting plate to which the Arizona Heli Regulator is attached, is made of chemical-resistant Delrin and features a vibration-isolating protective mounting plate, reducing fatigue from engine and other harmful vibrations. The people at Fromeco have really done their homework.
UBEC vs. Arizona Heli Regulator?
This is a brief comparison between the UBEC (a switching regulator), ant the Fromeco Arizona regulator (linear regulator).
Kool Flight UBEC:
• The UBEC will give you longer flight time for the same amount of battery weight.
• The UBEC should be used with a 3S or higher LiPo or Li-Ion battery.
• The UBEC has a non-adjustable output voltage.
• The UBEC requires the use of a switch
Fromeco Arizona Helicopter Regulator:
• The Fromeco regulators will dissipate more heat for the same input voltage and output voltage and current.
• The Fromeco should be used with a 2S LiPo or Li-Ion battery. The UBEC is one-third the weight of the Fromeco regulators.
• The Fromeco regulators have a higher current capacity. The Fromeco regulators have adjustable output voltage (a fixed and an adjustable on the new Arizona model).
• The Fromeco regulators are available with a built-in fail-safe switch.
Independent User Efficiency Testing:
Regulator at 5.4V
Using the UBEC, --- 71% efficiency, 3S1P 2100 pack = 18.8 wh - 5.4oz
Using the Fromeco, 44% efficiency, 3S1P 2100 pack = 11.6 wh - 6.2oz
Using the Fromeco, 64% efficiency, 2S1P 2100 pack = 11.3 wh - 4.7oz
(Special thanks to Wolfgang Franke for the efficiency testing)
Troubleshooting and FAQ:
After surfing the forums and finding common questions or concerns others have, I have decided to try and put together a troubleshooting/FAQ addendum to this review to help others with any misconceptions they may have.
1) So how do I set it up? Before I was just using the battery that came with my radio and the "on/off" switch (mechanical switch).
Just take the lead that you would normally plug back into the RX and solder the positive and negative wires together. This will "close" the switch and you can use it just fine. The other alternative, and in my opinion best thing to do though is order the Pin/Flag switch from Fromeco; 7.95 and it is worth every penny. Very simple and easy to use.
2) Running the switch in between the battery and regulator.
While this method does work, you are basically circumventing the failsafe feature of the Reliaswitch. In this case, if the switch were to fail, the regulator WILL TURN OFF. The above method of soldering the positive and negative wires together is a much better option and you could even twist the wires together if you prefer to not solder, even if the wires were to come untwisted and lose contact with each other, the regulator will remain on.
3) Ok - that sounds good. But when I use a regular switch it doesn't work. Reading here sounds like I have to solder something. I'm not sure what I have to solder. Can someone post pictures and a detailed explanation of what needs soldering please? It must be the lead that goes from the switch to the RX? But if the other leads plug directly into the RX with power why plug the switch into the RX? Does the switch just turn the regulator on and off?
You can just plug and unplug the battery if that works for you. The easiest way to "fix" the switch is to do just what I said above. Take the + and - leads off the switch to RX lead and wire them together. You don't even really have to solder them as an intermittent connection is not going to cause the regulator to turn off in flight. You can tape them together and get the same results.
4) What about the Pin/Flag switch?
The pin/flag plugs into the lead marked "SW" on the regulator. It then replaces the switch as I have pictured here. When the pin is in the regulator is off. Pull the pin and the regulator is on.
*Special thanks to Jason for the pictures
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/ArizonaRegulatorPic3.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/ArizonaRegulatorPic2.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y169/Shorty21car/ArizonaRegulatorPic.jpg
I would like to thank Kurt and Mike at Fromeco for this exciting new product in their line up. Thanks to the Helifreak moderating team and the users for making this place awesome. I hope you enjoy the review and find it very useful.
Steven Carroll