maintenance

[deepak]

Hi Folks
What is a good routine to follow after a days flight?

[Klinger]

Hi Folks
What is a good routine to follow after a days flight?

logo's require very little maintenance, after first half dozen flights check all screws to make sure nothings backing off but really nothing to be done. Every week or so i put a few drops of triflow on the shafts but most of the time its just stick a pack in it and fly the hell out of it :YeaBaby:

[deepak]

logo's require very little maintenance, after first half dozen flights check all screws to make sure nothings backing off but really nothing to be done. Every week or so i put a few drops of triflow on the shafts but most of the time its just stick a pack in it and fly the hell out of it :YeaBaby:
much thanks man

[dahld]

Concur with Klinger. In over 500 flights on my Logo 10, all I've done is reset the gear mesh after break-in, tightened the belt once, oiled the shafts and blown the dust off it once in awhile. Other than that, I've put batteries in it and flown it.

[Mercuriell]

Check the belt and the belt pulley every few flights - I lost the tail yesterday on my 600 from the belt slipping off the tail pulley - one sidewall of the pulley seemed a bit worn. Some have advocated changing the idler roller on the tail to flanged bearings to stop this.

[deepak]

Check the belt and the belt pulley every few flights - I lost the tail yesterday on my 600 from the belt slipping off the tail pulley - one sidewall of the pulley seemed a bit worn. Some have advocated changing the idler roller on the tail to flanged bearings to stop this.
Cool,
Currently I wipe, tighten and lube after days flight.
Will check that belt pully issue.
Thanks for the advice

[Flybar-less]

I have had the belt come off even though it was tight. Now I run 3-3x8mm bearing inplace of the idler provided. I have seen some of the pros run 4 wide.

[BruceW]

Just had my 100th flight on the Logo 500 3D and it has had very little maintenance. The only things I've done are change the angled links on the flybar cage, two links to the swash, tightened some balls on the mixing arms (added CA to the screw), oiled the main shaft and rotor shaft and I'm about to change the belt. The current one is starting to make a creaking noise but there are no signs of wear or fraying so I'm not entirely sure if its going bad. Last weekend I took apart the tail case and cleaned out a bit of black dust from the belt that was coated around the inside of the case and bearings.

[deepak]

I have had the belt come off even though it was tight. Now I run 3-3x8mm bearing inplace of the idler provided. I have seen some of the pros run 4 wide.
Hey,
Where did get the bearings from?

[Flybar-less]

Probably scavengened from a Trex. Available at Boca Bearing.

[eltavito]

John, what is the width of the bearings?


Occy

[Flybar-less]

The unflanged are 3mm wide and the flanged are 4mm wide.

You can also see what Graphit 33 looks like on a PU belt. Other items of possible intrest are the Quick UK tail, carbon booms, and Quick UK boom clmps.

These 2 helis combined have about 500 flights and 2 crashes each. Very little maintainence.

[Mercuriell]

Nice setup John - Iike the wider drive belt too :) My problem is that the drive belt doesn't run true centre on the pulley and chaffed the tail rotor rim enabling the belt to come off. I tried twisting the tube slightly to see if I could get it to run dead centre but ended up having to shim up the pulley and idler with a 5mm nut and bearing and washers to try to get it more central. I've ordered some 5mm thrust bearings to play around with the tail pulley lateral position and some 3mm flanged bearings for the pulley.

Is that the TREX or the Raptor QUK tail ?

PS Looking into it more it seems the tail shaft not quite square to the CF case causing it to run off towards the tail rotor.

[deepak]

The unflanged are 3mm wide and the flanged are 4mm wide.

You can also see what Graphit 33 looks like on a PU belt. Other items of possible intrest are the Quick UK tail, carbon booms, and Quick UK boom clmps.

These 2 helis combined have about 500 flights and 2 crashes each. Very little maintainence.
I like what I see
What is the belt you are using and did you have to modify the rollers to the left and right of the bearings.
Does synthetic oil damage the belts?

[Flybar-less]

One is the stock 730XL PU 600 3D belt, the other is a Raptor 686XL PU belt. They were treated with Graphit 33 100s of flights ago, still retain the conductive coating wich prevents static. it is a dry coating, no oil.

You just trim the idler spacer to length or use some shorter canopy spacers. The total spacing is imortant to keep the sides straight.

Trex, I don't know which aligns better?

Maybe your belt is a liitle loose? I have not recentered the pully and have not had the wear you show or others have shown.

[ShuNut]

Would i be ok using two 4mm bearings as in pic below then cut the spacers down ? or is it best to use three 3mm to get a wider stance ?
Or what about three 4mm bearings, is that too much ?

Thx

[Flybar-less]

Looks good.
I've seen one Pro's Logo w/ 4 3mm wide.
I think 8mm is better then 6mm. If you put a washer inbetween the 4mms you might get to 8.5mm.

[ShuNut]

Tried your washer idea, what do you think ? i probably should have cut the rollers better so the bearings were a little more to the left. Is this passable you u guys think ?

RJohn, on the pic u posted with the flanged bearings they're 4mm right ? so that gives you 12mm for the pully right, so would i be safer using one more 4mm instead of that washer ?
Also do you know the pt number for the 3mm T-Rex bearings ?


Info in pic two 4mm bearings from T-Rex 450 blade grip HS1029 and washer from Rex head, total = 9mm.

[Flybar-less]

That looks great!

Sorry, but I did not keep part numbers.

[Mercuriell]

That looks great!

Sorry, but I did not keep part numbers.

I scavenged some Bearing MR83ZZ x 2(Φ3xΦ8x3mm) from some spare T600 thrust tail sets (http://www.wattsuprc.com.au/product_detail.asp?pid=H60104)I had. I've also got some 5mm ID thrust washers (off a Gaui Hurricane) which I'm gonna try either side of the tail pulley. I think my offset running probs caused by wear on the belt - it seems narrower in one segment than the rest so that's another job to do this w/e :roll:

[ShuNut]

Mercuriell
Looking at your pic i'm confused. Is it me or on the right side of the pic it looks like the plastic spacer is missing and the other side looks like u put a bearing there instead of the spacer.
Am i seeing it right or what ? is this something u did to try fix ur problem ? or are my eyes being crap ?

[Mercuriell]

Your eyes are spot on :roll: - for some reason my belt isn't running dead centre so I discarded the plastic spacers and started playing with the pulley position - there is an M3 washer on one side and a radial bearing on the other - thinking about the side loads though on the pulley shaft got me thinking about putting in some thrust bearings on the shaft so that is this weekend's project :)

[ShuNut]

Glad my eyes are :thumbup:.
Good luck soring out ur prob, i look forward to reading the success story, the problem sucks though, must be bugging u bad.......... no one come up with reason why its happening or suggestions to solve it ?

Peace

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

Can someone post a link to a good place in the US to buy these bearings?

[Mercuriell]

Can someone post a link to a good place in the US to buy these bearings?
I've had real good service from these guys: VXB http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=bearings&Product_Code=MR83ZZ&Category_Code who I use now for my motor bearing supplies

As far as other maintenance issues it's also worth checking your pinions to make sure they're not getting divorced. Early on I had a 13t separate (http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=50091&highlight=pinion+separate)and have had a good run till now when some rough running on my 600 caused me to take down the counterbearing cover and find the 14t had nearly separated and checking on my 500 I saw that the 15t was going the same way :(

I think the problem with the Hacker motor is that the shaft doesn't travel the full length of the pinion so the top gear isn't supported internally and starts to capsize. Not sure why it should do this on the 600 - the counter bearing shaft shoud have supported this so I guess it's the axial forces prying them apart.