Build/Review: HeliArtist Agusta A109

[BlackTitanium]

HeliArtist has released two Agusta A109 fuselages with retract landing gear, a Slovenia Policiga paint scheme and a US Coast Guard paint scheme.
http://www.heliartist.com/smill_product_pic/Agusta_A109.jpg http://www.heliartist.com/smill_product_pic/A109_Red_s.jpg
I got the Slovenia Policija (correct spelling) version Agusta A109.

What's in the box?
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43972&stc=1&d=1207381746


Fiber Glass scale fuselage x 1
Tinted Canopy windows x 3
Horizontal stabilizer x 2
Black wheels x 3
Retract System x 3
Frame Stand Wood x 1 Pack
Servo Connector Y-Cable x 1
Hardware x 1 Pack

The included manual is a two page sheet with minimal instruction.
You'll want to bookmark this build for future reference if you plan to build one of these A109's, as I have some important information for you.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44093&d=1207196502http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44094&d=1207196502


The fuselage has a very nice metal flake blue paint job, with gold accent pin stripe.
It's even more impressive in the sun light!
The nose section has four sets of magnets, to allow easy access to the battery.
Unlike the the 500D, I did not feel the need to add any additional magnets, the Agusta's
magnets feel strong and secure.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43973&stc=1&d=1207115253


Windows and Wings:

First task was to mount the windows and the horizontal stabilizer wings.
I used Loctite quick set epoxy.
The horizontal stabilizer wings are very rigid, painted fiber glass.
Align's Agusta A-109, has a plastic one piece horizontal stabilizer that flapped violently from the rotor turbulence.
During flight test of the HeliArtist Agusta, the horizontal stabilizer was solid, the rotor turbulence had no affect on the wings.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43975&stc=1&d=1207115695


Retractable Landing Gear:

The landing gear comes unassembled. There are three retract wheel assemblies, two rear and one for the front.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43976&stc=1&d=1207117450


First step, mount the axles to the retract assembly.
Note: The axles are threaded, but would not easily screw into the retract leg.
TIP: Use a 3/32" drill bit to open the hole to a larger diameter.
There seemed to be a lip in the retract leg opening, after the drill bit passed the lip the opening was larger than the 3/32" drill bit diameter.

Next, mount the wheels onto the axles, note that the front wheel axle is different from the rear wheel axles and also has a smaller wheel. The rear wheel axles are left/right oriented and the axle nut must point towards the retract actuator arm.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43977&stc=1&d=1207117392


Notice that there is a hole on the side of the retract leg. I feared that this would lead to the leg cracking while screwing in the axle, and sure enough two of them did crack.
I applied some epoxy into the hole and crack to reinforce the leg.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43978&stc=1&d=1207117392

The fuselage does not have pre-drilled holes for the retracts, so you'll have to mark and drill starter holes for the self tapping wood screws.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43981&stc=1&d=1207119222


Before mounting the retract wheel assemblies to the fuselage, I checked for full clearance of the wheels, I used the Dremel to open the holes up more were necessary. Use ultra fine sand paper to smooth out the edges, after any Dremel work is performed.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43984&stc=1&d=1207119791


I also needed to use the Dremel, to remove some of the wood from the servo mounting frame, to allow unrestricted movement of the retract wheel into the fuselage.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43986&stc=1&d=1207120100

[BlackTitanium]

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43988&stc=1&d=1207120896

There are four screws that mount the retract assembly to the frame.
In the hardware bag there were only four screws, but I needed four for each of the the two rear retract assemblies.
The local hobby shop didn't have any No. 2 Flat Head Pan screws. I did find some brass screws at the hardware store.
TIP: Be careful not to over tighten the screws, as they will easily strip the wood.
I applied some glue to the screws to lock the threads.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43989&stc=1&d=1207120896

For the retract system, you're going to need to purchase two micro servos and some Snap'r Keepers. (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDMJ2&P=WR)
I bought two Futaba S3114.

The front retract servo was fairly easy to setup, using the Futaba S3114 servo.
TIP: Use the radio travel adjust/ATV, to limit the servo travel.
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43991&d=1207121045

I was not able to get the rear retracts to operate, with the Futaba S3114 servo.
The first problem that I had, is that the servo kept twisting in the frame mount.
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43990&d=1207120896
I reinforced the frame by epoxying some wood pieces on each side of the servo.
After that, I determined that the Futaba S3114 servo arms were not strong enough.
I replaced the rear servo with a HiTec HS-65HB, which has beefier servo arms.

Note: I initially purchased the Futaba S3114 servos, because of their size.
The HiTec HS-65HB servo was ~1mm too big. A little Dremel work was required to fit.
TIP: In hind sight, I recommend using the HS-65MG for both the front and rear retracts.

1. The linkage wire needs to be at a 90 degree angle.
2. Power up the receiver and put the retracts in the down and locked position.
TIP: It is important that the wheels are locked when in the down position, otherwise the landing gear will wobble.
3. Tighten the E/Z Connector set screw.
4. Activate the retract to the up position, the actuator may bend at this point and bind the retract, just manually adjust the actuator arm until both wheels are up.
5. Adjust ATV as necessary, so that the wheels are inside the fuselage.
6. Activate the retract to the down position and check the wheels return to the locked position.
TIP: Epoxy must be applied to the Snap'r Keeper and actuator arm linkage.
This will prevent the actuator arm from jack knifing, and bending the actuator arm, causing the retract to fail.

7. Once you've got the rear retracts working as best possible, align the Snap'r Keeper and actuator arm linkage to be as horizontal as possible, apply epoxy and let it set. The rear retracts should now work perfectly.
Apply a drop of blue thread lock to the E/Z Connector set screw, it should wick thru and lock the threads.

TIP: The retracts will snap open and closed when actuated. Install a Night Fly Servo Slow Down Unit (http://www.hobby-lobby.com/hookup.htm) to give the retracts a scale slow movement.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43993&d=1207121045

[BlackTitanium]

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44094&stc=1&d=1207196502

Per the manual, the installation of the wood set pieces onto the Heli frame, using epoxy, will make it a permanent install. Obviously this will be a problem, should you need to re-install the skids on the Heli, for testing, after maintenance or repairs.

My solution was to create a rail system, that attaches to the Heli, via the four landing gear mount holes, which is then mounted to the fuselage. I used a similar rail system on my HeliArtist Bell Jet Ranger.

I used the following hardware from my local hobby shop.
2-56 x 1/2" Socket Head Cap Screws
2-56 x 1/4" Socket Head Cap Screws
2-56 Blind Nuts
No. 2 Flat Washers
3mm Flat Washers
Wood stick

Install a 2-56 Blind Nut on four of the wood set pieces. This will be the part that mounts the skid to the fuselage. Apply epoxy around the Blind Nuts to lock them in place.
The two pieces on the right show the side that faces the fuselage and where the screw enters.
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43994&stc=1&d=1207121495
TIP: Run the screw thru each of the Blind Nuts to make sure the threads are free of burs and the screw does not bind. This will save you trouble from breaking off a Blind Nut from the wood piece, due to over torquing a binding screw.

Cut two dowels, even length, and attach to the Heli.
Epoxy or CA two wood set pieces onto the four wood set pieces with the Blind Nut.
Note: Part of the wood set was cut off, exposing the Blind Nut, to keep the wood sets flush.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43995&d=1207121495

TIP: Epoxy a third wood set piece to the bottom rear two Blind Nut assemblies. This will properly elevate the tail boom thru the fuselage, so that the tail servo rod can operate freely.

Epoxy the Blind Nut wood set assembly to the dowel attached to the Heli frame.
Note: The wood set does not cover the screws mounting the dowel to the Heli frame.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43998&d=1207121829


Make a template for drilling the mounting holes into the fuselage.
TIP: Insert the Heli frame into the fuselage, with the canopy nuts attached to the frame.
The canopy nuts will stop at the fuselage, and serve as guide for how far back to mount the Heli frame.
Mark the fuselage floor where front of the rail system sits. Remove the canopy nuts from the heli frame.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43999&d=1207121829

TIP: Epoxy a 3mm flat washer around the mounting holes for reinforcement.
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44001&d=1207121829


Mount the frame to the fuselage, using two of the 2-56 x 1/4" socket head cap screws and the no. 2 flat washers for the two front mount holes.
Use two of the 2-56 x 1/2" socket head cap screws and the no. 2 flat washers for the two rear mount holes.
TIP: If you're using an after market motor, with built in cooling fan, i.e., NeuMotors 1107/2Y, Dremel a hole in the bottom of the fuselage to support air flow.
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44000&d=1207121829

[BlackTitanium]

Remove the skids, tail boom support rods, vertical and horizontal stabilizers.
Disassemble the tail rotor gear box assembly, and set aside.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44002&stc=1&d=1207122597


http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44003&stc=1&d=1207122597


http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44004&stc=1&d=1207122597

TIP: Use a twist tie to hold the belt and linkage rod.
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44005&d=1207122803

Reassemble the tail gear box assembly.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44006&d=1207122803

Attach tail end cap, and check for any mechanical interference.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44023&d=1207152972


Use the Dremel, as necessary to remove any mechanical interference.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44021&d=1207152886

TIP: Fabricate a dampener, from foam, to eliminate slop and vibration.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44007&d=1207122803

Install foam dampener into fuselage around tail boom, making sure that the servo rod moves freely.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44008&d=1207122803

Install tail end cap. Do not over tighten screws.
TIP: Apply rubber cement or shoe goo on the screws, for thread lock.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44022&d=1207152886

[BlackTitanium]

Check for any mechanical interference around the head assembly.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44009&stc=1&d=1207123001


Use Dremel to remove mechanical interference as necessary.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44010&stc=1&d=1207123001


Use lead weights, in the nose, to achieve center of gravity.
I had to use twelve of the 7 gram self adhesive lead weights from Great Planes.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44011&stc=1&d=1207123001

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44114&stc=1&d=1207207867


This fuselage looks awesome in the air! The sun light really brings out the beauty of the paint job.
I really love the smooth flight characteristics of the Agusta, it looks so sleek in flight.
The fuselage does not affect tail authority and I feel like it even improves how the TREX 450 flies.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44113&stc=1&d=1207207867

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44330&stc=1&d=1207427834

gSxWPOeE5Ek


Helicopter Mechanics:
Align T-Rex 450 SE V2
NeuMotors 1107/2Y with 15T pinion
Castle Creations Phoenix-35 ESC
Futaba 9257 rudder servo
HiTec HS-65HB cyclic servos
Futaba GY401 Gyro
Flight Power EVO 25 2170 mAh 3S 11.1V
Mavrikk E-Series 335mm Carbon Fiber Main Rotor Blades
K&B Tail Rotor
Gorilla Gear paddles with full weights
Spektrum AR7000 Receiver
Retract Servos: Futaba S3114 (Front) and HiTec HS-65HB (Rear)
Night Fly Servo Slow Down Unit

Wing Tote Medium Heli Bag
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44130&stc=1&d=1207236790

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44131&stc=1&d=1207236790

[jeffd]

Saw your video a couple of days ago and it forced me to order a new fuselage for my Trex. Never was completely happy with the Align Agusta 109 fuse currently installed. Seemed backwards to have such a large hole in the bottom of it to install the battery.

[Rodan]

Looks great!

Do they offer it unpainted??

[BlackTitanium]

Looks great!

Do they offer it unpainted??

HeliArtist doesn't currently offer the unpainted Agusta A109 on their website.
I recall reading, in another thread that someone got an unpainted 500D.
Maybe that's why they're now offering the 500D unpainted.

Send HeliArtist an email, and ask if you can purchase one direct from them.

[PlagueWulf]

Great build thread! I got lots of good ideas for my scale projects from this. :)

[BlackTitanium]

Great build thread! I got lots of good ideas for my scale projects from this. :)

Thanks!
Glad to have been helpful.

-Kip

[darrentoogood991]

Great posts these. Lots of useful info and im looking forward to the Airwolf build so thanks Titanium.

Just a quick question though. I have the Hughes 500D fuselage from HeliArtist and i was wondering if you have had to change any pitch curves or throttle curves.
I have mine set to Finless video and im finding i need almost 3/4 stick just to get it off the ground.
Is this normal?

Darren

[darrentoogood991]

Ok im an idiot.

Just been over the vids again and it is normal to be 3/4 stick for hovering.

[majuro15]

It looks great!!! And awesome thread on building. I'm interested in the gears for a S76 project I'm starting on. How sturdy are they when the lock down? Also, can you set the travel limits for each individual servo even though you are using a y cord? I am confused on that a little.

[BlackTitanium]

It looks great!!! And awesome thread on building. I'm interested in the gears for a S76 project I'm starting on. How sturdy are they when the lock down? Also, can you set the travel limits for each individual servo even though you are using a y cord? I am confused on that a little.

They are sturdy enough to support the helicopter, but have the potential to break on a hard landing.

You can not adjust the travel on the individual servos, using the y harness, because they share the same signal from one channel. You would have to put each servo on it's own channel to adjust individual limits.

[BlackTitanium]

Great weather today!
Here's a new video.

ZlK8T6y4Pmg

[relaxteb]

Hi !

I am working on the A109 myself. But i can't get the retract system to function right.

I've already replaced the standard retracts with the GWS ones(much more solid).

But somehow the metal linkage keeps on bending which results in the slider not functioning like it should.

Do you know how i can fix this ? I really tried al kinds of different angles but none of them works.

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/8446/img1347ke6.jpg

Getting into a point considering leaving the retracts permanently out ..

[BlackTitanium]

Pick up some Snap'r Keepers No.361 (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDMJ2&P=FR) form your local hobby shop.
Attach them to the actuator arm and then apply a coat of epoxy.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43993&d=1207121045

[JasonJ]

Your scale helicopters look great. Of the three, which one is the lightest overall, and which one of the three are you the most satisfied with overall? I am considering getting one of the three, and am leaning towards the Jetranger. I also like the Hughes, but suspect it is heavier. Also, what is the setup in each helicopter as far as 3s, 4s, gear ratios, etc. Thanks in advance...

[doering1]

Nice clear write-up!
Do you know if the stock Blade 400 motor in a Blade could lift all the extra weight in this model?

[WEFlyer]

Black Titanium,

Beautiful helicopters. What radio are you using to flying them, in particular the Agusta. At least a 7 channel one due to having the retracts? Do you plan to install lights on it also?

[michaelvan]

WEFlyer,

If you are planning on buying a new radio at minimum I would say buy a DX7 but you would be better off going with something like JR X9303 since it is 9ch. For true scale you want as many channels as you can get (afford) since that will give you ability to control things like lights, winches for rescue helis, water drop buckets, guns....... Just really depends on what you intend to model and what type of things you want to run off of the transmitter. But the more channels the better. Since I couldn't afford the new JR 12 channel I opted to go in between and went with the X9303.

my $.02

Mike

[BlackTitanium]

Your scale helicopters look great. Of the three, which one is the lightest overall, and which one of the three are you the most satisfied with overall? I am considering getting one of the three, and am leaning towards the Jetranger. I also like the Hughes, but suspect it is heavier. Also, what is the setup in each helicopter as far as 3s, 4s, gear ratios, etc. Thanks in advance...

The Jet Ranger is the lightest fuselage overall. But, currently is the only fuselage that does not have the magnetic catch nose section, so you'll have to have to remove screws to install a fresh battery. HeliArtist, did release a new Jet Ranger with the magnetic catch nose, but pulled it from the shelves. Also, it is the only one that will fit into the aluminum T-Rex case.

IMHO, the Hughes 500 is the best choice. Yes, it is heavier but the not heaviest.
It is the largest, which makes it much easier to see. My Hughes gets the most compliments of how real it looks on the air. Start with the Hughes first, and when get the urge to have a fleet, then go for the others.

3s or 4s, it depends on how much you want to spend on lipos and how much flight time per pack you want.

[WEFlyer]

If you are planning on buying a new radio at minimum I would say buy a DX7 but you would be better off going with something like JR X9303 since it is 9ch. For true scale you want as many channels as you can get (afford) since that will give you ability to control things like lights, winches for rescue helis, water drop buckets, guns....... Just really depends on what you intend to model and what type of things you want to run off of the transmitter. But the more channels the better. Since I couldn't afford the new JR 12 channel I opted to go in between and went with the X9303.

Thanks Mike. After reviewing the various costs of different size helicopters and batteries needed to fly them, along with time for weekend only flying, I going with 450s for scale. How much equipment can one put in them before they are too heavy to fly? Could a person get use out of 9 or 10 channel radio for a 450? Or would a 7 channel seem a better choice?

Oh to add to that, my current thoughts are to eventually add a vbar setup to a Bell Ranger and either 4 or 5 bladed head to Hughes 500 D or E. I see there are heads out there for the 4 or 5 blades but not sure what is out there for a 2 blade barless setup. I read with the proper blade balancing/setup you don't need a lot of gear for the 5 head. Not sure still investigating but would these type of setups need more than a 7 channel? Would there be room for things like lights or anything else for a 450 size heli?

[michaelvan]

Weflyer,

I plan using a 9CH rx with my 450 once I start building up my scale ship. I have HeliArtist 500D fuse. Yes you can put lights on these, do a search for MINI-FLASH.
This controller is pretty small and well designed. I think the site is www.diyrc.com (http://www.diyrc.com).
I am actually building my own controller, but I would buy a MINI-FLASH if I didn't have
all the gear to make my own. As far as multi blade and flybarless this is still beyond
my flying skills so I can not comment on these. Like you I am stuck with weekend only when I am lucky. I have two boys under three so my time is very limited for hobbies. Don't forget you can bind multiple helis to one transmitter so you may want to buy the 9CH now for future growth. I can tell you this hobby is much like crack or any other addiction once you get strarted you will continue buying helis. Most everyone I know that is in this hobby has multiple birds. I have a blade CP, trex 450 and trex 500, Walkera 4#3.

Mike

[jack726]

Hi Darrentoogood

The 500D is a dream to fly. The extra weight just makes it more stable than a streight 450. Almost everyone in Southern California (including Finless) set all our helicopters to hover at 3/4 stick. Our reasoning is: why learn at 1/2 stick and then when you are ready for 3D have to learn all over again.

I am retired and set up helis. as a hobby; I stopped counting after 100. None of these people disliked the 3/4 stick position. You get used to it.