Belt CP - Compatable T-Rex Parts

[DierWolf]

Heres the list Compiled so far by Another_Finn (local parts guru)

The (not that short anymore) list:


T-Rex Main Head (See video (http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=68302)by Dierwolf)
HDX/3DX450 B style head and swashplate combo.
T-Rex 450 tail mechanics
Blade 400 tail pitch slider
Blade 400 tail boom supports
T-Rex feathering shaft (for standard head #HR1003, #HS1003) (thanks to testpilot58d) *
T-Rex flybar and paddles *
T-Rex linkage set
T-Rex Main Shaft (use it upside down) (#HR1001) *?
King II Main Shaft
MX400 tail rotor output shaft (#HMXE9710)
T-Rex Main Gear
HeliMax 400 Main Gear
Ark X400 Main Gear
Eflite Blade 400 main gear
HS1026 - One Way Bearing HF0612
Align 315 Pro blades
Align 325 Pro blades
HDX 315 Fiber FRP blades
T-Rex tail blades
T-Rex Flybar Paddles
T-Rex new damper system (#FS-BLK-V1)
MX400 dampers (#HMXE7358) (thanks to testpilot58d)
T-Rex 450 Canopy
Canopy mounting bolt (#HS1212, #H50049T) (thanks to testpilot58d)
T-Rex XL tail boom & belt
T-Rex horizontal and vertical stabilizers
HDX450 aluminum skids (#HDX450-LG02)*) Plastic edition only

T-Rex 450 tail mechanics
This little piece of CNC art is the Microheli Precision Tail Pro SE V3. When you absolutely, positively have to remove any slop in the tail, accept no substitute http://www.heliguy.com/Forum/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif
The only slight problem with this particular version is the screw hole for the ball link - it seems to be in some alien thread as yet undiscovered by human science. I think the spec has irrational numbers in it. It's still just aluminum, though, so it rethreads easily. Alternatively, you could just fit a Rex size ball link end on your tail pushrod. Align stuff should be no problem - they seem to hang their balls on the same thread as Esky, so you could recycle the ball and screw from your stock tail.
http://www.heliguy.com/Forum/images/userpix/3667_mhelitail_1.jpg

T-Rex/HDX450 feathering shaft
Requires shimming at blade holder roots, and bolts to replace the nuts on the Belt shafts. Creates more space inside the blade grips for Align blades, easier to tighten evenly, no more hunting for extra slim and deep box spanners. Better material and less likely to bend.

T-Rex XL 116 mm stainless steel main shaft
Put it in upside down so the waist doesn't ride in the bearing. Grind a small flat for the collar grub screw. Turn all servo links down to restore your pitch settings and say goodbye to the spool-up boogie. Reduces vibrations and should handle stress better than the original part.

http://www.heliguy.com/Forum/images/userpix/3667_TRexshaft_1.jpg

King II main shaft
Same as T-Rex shaft: insert upside down, turn down swashplate links to restore pitch.

Align 315 Pro blades
Reshape the blade root to create clearance for the feathering shaft. Use two 1 mm shimms to fill up the blade holder. Lighter weight, better performance and more durable than Esky woodies. Once you try these, you'll never go back.

http://www.heliguy.com/Forum/images/userpix/3667_TRexblade_1.jpg

HDX Fiber FRP 315 mm blades
Use two 1 mm shimms to fill up the blade holder. No reshaping necessary. Extremely durable blades that perform well on the Belt.

T-Rex flybar paddles
Drop-in fit. They make control inputs less spongy and look great.

T-Rex new damper system
Split along the middle and these are a drop-in replacement of the rotor head o-rings. Much stiffer, they reduce slop in the feathering shaft and should be just the ticket for fixing those incurable tracking problems. The T-Rex o-rings work too, but won't be anywhere near as stiff as these.

T-Rex 450 canopy
Perfect fit. Some versions may need a little cut on the side so they don't contact the front servo rod. Provides more space for mounting the battery forward, which is just what the Belt needs. Looks good too.

http://www.heliguy.com/Forum/images/userpix/3667_TRexcanopy_1.jpg

T-Rex horizontal and vertical stabilizers
That's fins to us simple folk. Drop-in fit. Horizontal comes with its own mount - the original Esky boom mount has the correct screw hole spacing, but the new fin is shaped to grip the boom. Original mount still in the picture because I was too lazy to remove the boom and didn't have the heart to cut it off.

http://www.heliguy.com/Forum/images/userpix/3667_TRexfins_1.jpg

HDX450 aluminum skids
Legs need new holes outside the existing ones, and I couldn't find a suitable drill bit. The skid part and rubber holders are a drop-in fit on the Esky plastic legs.
http://www.heliguy.com/Forum/images/userpix/3667_HDXskids_1.jpg

So, come on, you compulsive modders out there - chime in with your own modifications and upgrades. I'm sure there are other parts that could be made to work on the Belt. Oh, and for those of you about to ask why not get a T-Rex or HDX450 in the first place: It wouldn't be a hobby if it had to make sense http://www.heliguy.com/Forum/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif

[merlin703]

That is some cool Beltrex! Now I know where to come when I'm ready to upgrade.

[another_finn]

Ah, excellent. I was just on my way over to repost that list, but I don't mind someone else taking over the updates :)

[psilo]

Yep some great info there.

In particular there are a few must have upgrades there, the t-rex main shaft (so much better than the bent from new esky!), the helimax 400 main gear (much better again and can survive crashes!) and the align 315/325 blades (woodies or fiber).

These should definitely be installed when you next need to replace your esky one.

Just a note though, the helimax 400 main gear needs the bearing pushing through around a mm to stop it binding (push it 1mm up towards the head as it is flush)

[DierWolf]

ANOTHER_FINN!!! YOUR HERE!!!

SWEET!

Your Credentials are at the top, Please carry on LOL..

[another_finn]

Can't have all you wascally webels ruining Esky's spare parts racket all by your lonesome, can I?

Here's some gratuitous glamour shots of the (wanna)B-Rex before the final round of upgrades. The parts should already be on a plane... Can I still keep calling it a Belt as long as it has an Esky tail boom? Oh, and the motor and ESC, at least for now.

[DierWolf]

Almost lookin nicer than a Rex Self!!! :)

i gonna have to do over my beauty shots :)

Hey how you like my new Avatar :)

[Ber60]

Dierwolf love your new avatar

[another_finn]

Hey how you like my new Avatar :)
I was just looking at the owners' thread when you changed it :cheers
DierWolf, that's the second time this week your avatars send coffee up my nose! :D

[traeside]

I am so happy I found this area!! Great tips on the parts as the Belt CP parts are hard to find locally. But here is my question I have the E-Sky aluminum head and the feathering shaft is a rod that is drilled and tapped like the T-Rex but it bends like butter, it needs 6 shimmies to get it tight and hold tracking and is only available with the grips. There is another shaft that comes in the kit but it is 7mm shorter. O and once you go to these grips you no longer have to trim the roots off the blades.

[DierWolf]

Hi There and welcome...

What exactly do you have just the CNC Grips?? or the entire cnc head.

YOu have to remember there are 3 feathering shafts for Esky.

1. Esky Plastic head (External Threaded feathering shaft)
2. Esky CNC Grips (comes with Feathering shaft to use with Plastic Central holder only and is longer)
3. Esky Central Holder (Comes with Feathering shaft for use with the CNC Grips, shorter)

So in other words you cannot use the feathering shaft that comes with the CNC Grips with the CNC Central holder as its too long and will require cutting it shorter or adding more shims.

If your using the Entire CNC Head (no plastic) you will need to buy these. you can get them bulk from these people for 20 buck for 20 of them... They also are better fit for bearings and are Stainless Steel.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Belt-cp-King2-carbon-feathering-shaft-EK5-0395-EK5-0201_W0QQitemZ170189075222QQihZ007QQcategoryZ34056 QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118.l1247Q QcmdZViewItem

[Grant_beltcp]

I'd liek to add the T-rex washout arms to the list.
The ratio on them is better than the belt's version ans so gives more movement to the flybar giving better control and tighter turns. They bolt straight on easily, although it has the larger balls on. To get round this swap the large balls on the washout arms with the ones on the swash plate, that gives small balls for the metal linkage to go on, and the large balls for the plastic link on the washout arms to fit onto :)
Works a treat. Be carefull though, i had to VERY SLIGHTLY tilt the vertical peice on the back that keeps the swash from turning as these arms stick out more than the esky ones.

[traeside]

Hi There and welcome...

What exactly do you have just the CNC Grips?? or the entire cnc head.

YOu have to remember there are 3 feathering shafts for Esky.

1. Esky Plastic head (External Threaded feathering shaft)
2. Esky CNC Grips (comes with Feathering shaft to use with Plastic Central holder only and is longer)
3. Esky Central Holder (Comes with Feathering shaft for use with the CNC Grips, shorter)

So in other words you cannot use the feathering shaft that comes with the CNC Grips with the CNC Central holder as its too long and will require cutting it shorter or adding more shims.

If your using the Entire CNC Head (no plastic) you will need to buy these. you can get them bulk from these people for 20 buck for 20 of them... They also are better fit for bearings and are Stainless Steel.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Belt-cp-King2-carbon-feathering-shaft-EK5-0395-EK5-0201_W0QQitemZ170189075222QQihZ007QQcategoryZ34056 QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118.l1247Q QcmdZViewItem
okay you ARE Da man that is why I had to do so many shims but the shorter shaft seems to short to ever get to the outer race. I have the full head and grips. Okay another question then why in the book do they say put the larger OD race on first and then on the CNC diagram in the same book at says put the larger one on the outside?

[traeside]

They say they are carbon but look like stainless. And you say these are the right length (the shorter ones)? I will go measure the 2 I have and post what the difference is tomorrow I was thinking it was like 7mm. the one I have in there is the long one as I can’t see how the short one would reach but you exactly right that the short one came with the center holder

[traeside]

Okay I had 2 minutes before t-ball with kiddies the feathering shaft that comes with EK5-0201 Collet set (blade grips) is 48mm the other one that came with one of the head parts and was left over after my build up is 43mm. I know I don’t have 5mm of shims in there so the question is are the Alan bolts suppose to bottom out on the feathering shaft or not?
Thanks for all the help

[traeside]

O and Sorry DierWolf (http://www.helifreak.com/member.php?u=39651)

if you have any of the faethering shafts you recomeded to me out of the bird toss a rueler on them for me. thanks

[DierWolf]

The exact size is on the link i sent you.

Yes the screws should bottom out if its the correct length... As i said one of them that comes with the cnc set is too short requiring you to leave the screws slack, this is not good you need the one thats a little longer..

In your instance something seems very strange that you have an extra long one that requires so many more shims... dont know whats going on there posibly you got a totally wrong feathering shaft. Are the CNC parts Esky Parts or knockoff parts.

[traeside]

They are E-sky I pulled one out of the head and one from a brand new pack of grips and they are the exact same at 48mm the one left from the build was the shorter one. I thought earlier you said I needed to run the shorter one and that the long one was to be used when you just used the CNC grips with the plastic center. I looked on the EBay store and I see the diameter of the shaft but no mention of length. As for the amount of shims I will measure but I thin I have less then 1MM per side. Once again thank you for all your help.

[DierWolf]

Your supposed to use the longer of the 2 for full cnc head...

one of them is shorter and requires you to leave the screws loose for it to work (not good)

Are you sure your putting all the required items in the grip that you ahve so much space left over?? as per below setup?

http://www.buzzflyer.co.uk/images/cnc-head/ally-head8.jpg

http://www.buzzflyer.co.uk/images/cnc-head/ally-head9.jpg

[DierWolf]

Believe the correct size one should be 47.6mm

I will have to measure the ones i got off ebay and let you know exactly, but from what i remember thats the length.

[DierWolf]

Yes its 47.6mm

[traeside]

Once again you are the man thanks for going threw the trouble of measuring them I will order some today. I do have all the parts in there and I am not sure why I need a bit more shims maybe one of my bushings is warn out.
Thanks again,:clappp

[traeside]

Okay I think I asked this question but I did not see an answer. Why would the CNC clamps ask for the larger race to be on the outside? Are not most on the inside?

[DierWolf]

Dont understand what your asking...

[traeside]

I am sorry; there are 4 races (2 with a larger ID then the other 2) that the thrust bearings ride on. Rex’s and the Belt CP plastic blade grips the instructions say to put the larger race in the grip then the bearing then the smaller race. In the Belt CP book in the pictures for assembling the CNC grips it shows to put the larger on the outside. I thought you might have some insight on this.
Thanks a 5th time