Belt CP Setup

[psilo]

A heli with proper linkage setup will have:

* no binding during movement
* a linear, mirrored response from the controls over the entire positive to negative pitch range
* zero pitch at mid-stick, and the equal positive and negative pitch
* blades that track well in the full +ve and -ve range


Part 1 - Prepare to set up the linkages:


1. unplug the motor
2. power on the transmitter and heli
3. align both Paddle Control Arms horizontal on the flybar, and the paddles horizontal to the Paddle Control Arms
4. ensure your trasmitter program pitch curve is programmed for zero pitch at center and is linear both positive and negative (usually one of your Stunt modes)(0, 25, 50, 75, 100)
5. move the throttle (left stick) to the center (mid-stick) position, where zero pitch will be set

http://www.fluidreality.co.uk/images/beltsetup1.jpg

Part 2 - Set Up the linkages:


1. remove the servo arm and rotate around each spline to set the servo arm as close to 90 degrees as possible; put the screw back in the servo arm
2. use [SUB TRIM] to get the arm exactly 90 degrees
3. adjust the linkage between the servo arm and the control horn to make the control arm parallel to the servo arm
4. complete this step for all 3 servos
5. adjust the 3 linkages to the swash to ensure the swash is level
6. adjust the linkage to each Bell Mixing Arm to make it horizontal
7. if your pitch is not zero, adjust all 3 links to the swash to raise or lower it until you have zero pitch (and the same positive and negative pitch in each direction)

http://www.fluidreality.co.uk/images/beltsetup2.jpg

http://www.fluidreality.co.uk/images/beltsetup3.jpg

Part 3 - Blade Tracking tip:

With wood blades, tracking can be difficult due to shape tolerance, distortion of the plastic holder, structural clearance, etc. To make tracking easier to accomplish:


1. make an ajustable Bell Mixer Pushrod link (blade to mixing arm); leave one side with the fixed-length linkage
2. setup zero pitch using the fixed-length linkage (see part 2)
3. use the variable-length link to adjust the blade for tracking
4. if you still seem to need a 1/2 turn, adjust the Swashplate to Bell Mixing Arm linkage; do not adjust it more than 1/2 a turn

http://www.fluidreality.co.uk/images/beltsetup4.jpg

Part 4 - Signs of a good setup:


1. throttle at mid-stick with zero pitch
2. Swash Plate is level
3. Main blade Clamp is horizontal (Pitch is zero)
4. Paddle Control Arms are horizontal
5. Bell Mixer Arm is horizontal

http://www.fluidreality.co.uk/images/beltsetup5.jpg

[CodeB4U]

Wow, i needed this when i first go my Belt. Awesome tips and photo's.

Edit: Just wondering, when i center my servo horns... Ok i have the TX on, have all trims centered, Do i want it in Normal mode or 3D mode? Also, do i want the throttle stick at it's lowest point or in the middle?

Edit: Never mind, i read a little more carefully. So it should be in stunt 3D mode, and set at mid - 0 pitch

[wibble]

:lol: :lol: :lol: I ask myself that same question every time I set the head. That "switch" is soooo scary :lol: :lol:

[merlin703]

This is really good. What about the tail? I tried downloading the pictures to enlarge it and make it more visible but didn't work :(

[DierWolf]

Tail setup is trial and error, keep radio trim centered and move the servo up and down the boom until it holds, tighten down the servo there.

Naturally if your using stock rate Gyro as your battery runs down you will lose hold on the tail, so when setting the tail try to do it with fresh batteries.

I have found the servo should be about 5-6mm from touching the boom block, put it there as a starting point.

[TD1]

I need some help setting up my Belt cp on my JR 3810, I am using the receiver that comes with the heli, and just replaced the freequency.

But the ailerons and elevator seam to be crossed, I have swoped them around but I still get the same effect, and my radio is mode 1.

[Hix]

I need some help setting up my Belt cp on my JR 3810, I am using the receiver that comes with the heli, and just replaced the freequency.

But the ailerons and elevator seam to be crossed, I have swoped them around but I still get the same effect, and my radio is mode 1.

Go into the system menu and make sure the swash program is 3S 120deg....

[helibubba]

Hey guys. I'm pretty new at this and trying to figure out if my Belt CP is set up right. It seems sluggish (requires a lot of control input) and drops when I do give it input. I noticed that it flies better just as the battery is running out and I have the throttle on max to hover. Also, it seems to do better when I turn the dial on the left of the controller all the way up.

I have it basically set up as shown on the first post, except for the adjustable Bell Mixer Pushrod link. I do have it at zero pitch at mid-stick.

I am noticing that it doesn't have as much pitch range as seems to be indicated in some threads and videos. My understanding is that it should max at +10 or +11 degrees. In idle-up mode the range is -7 to +8 degrees. In normal mode it's -2 to +6 degrees. Is this a problem? If so, how can I increase the pitch range?

I've heard it said that if I created two adjustable Bell Mixer Pushrod links and increased the length of them both equally, this would increase the pitch range. My understanding it that this is how it works on the Honey Bee King II. Is this correct and if so, where can I get the parts to make these linkages? Right now I have the EK10548 Servo Linkage Rod set and all of the rods are too long. Could I use the adjustable Bell Mixer Pushrod links from the Honeybee (EK1-0290 Push link set)?

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

[rcaddik]

hi to all pilots here

i have a question, i think thats everyones in mind. can i asked what is the default height between the swash plate and correct me if im wrong main frame of the belt cp? i dont know how you call it, sorry but im hopping for a good reply thanks to all more power.

[DierWolf]

Height is determined automatically.

Please goto the finless vids in the main forum and watch his CCMP setup video.

In short, you need to set up your Heli in 3d Mode with throttle stick at 50%. at that point the Swashout arms are supposed to be flat and even with eachother, and when that is correct your swash will be at the correct height.

So in other words, your links to the swash will be adjusted to a length that brings the washout arms flat and level with eachother in Idle up mode (3d mode) while throttle stick is at midstick.

hope that explains it.

Look at the First picture in this thread, the Part just above the swashplate is the Washout Arms, notice how they are flat? thats what you need to get and then your swash will be correct height.

[rcaddik]

thanks dierwolf for help i will do what youve said

[edhayd]

I am new at this could someone explain to me where the sub trim is located? Thanks Ed

[DierWolf]

There is no Subtrim on the Stock radio, thats for Computer Radio's all you have is regular Trim (slider adjustments next to each stick)

[Gi11i5ui7]

:confused: Are the instructions for this setup for all transmitters or just for ones not using the Stock Esky Tx that came with their RTF package? If they are for the others, can someone provide similar info for the users with only a Stock Tx?

Thanks

[Heli Yea!]

This is the setup for any Tx(transmitter):thumbup:

[disney1]

Afternoon Everone:
For all of us that like to fly nice wood blades and our budgets and flying skills will won't let us fly CF blades.
I got a set of inexpensive wood blades (http://www.ushobbysupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_38&products_id=739&osCsid=28f91ec9406100be2b833eb61dd01fce) for the Belt from US Hobby Supply (http://www.ushobbysupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_38&products_id=739&osCsid=28f91ec9406100be2b833eb61dd01fce).
They were only $8, and that is a good price as compaired to $10 to $12 for brand name blades, I flew them today, They were almost perfectly blalnced out of the package and tracked out nicely, and I am a stickler for tracking and balance.
They flew great.
Not a problem with them, Just the Pilot.
Give them a try.

Keep Her Flying
R http://image2-0.rcuniverse.com/e1/forum/image/s3.gif N Sr

[Boddan]

Afternoon Everone:
For all of us that like to fly nice wood blades and our budgets and flying skills will won't let us fly CF blades.
I got a set of inexpensive wood blades (http://www.ushobbysupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_38&products_id=739&osCsid=28f91ec9406100be2b833eb61dd01fce) for the Belt from US Hobby Supply (http://www.ushobbysupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_38&products_id=739&osCsid=28f91ec9406100be2b833eb61dd01fce).
They were only $8, and that is a good price as compaired to $10 to $12 for brand name blades, I flew them today, They were almost perfectly blalnced out of the package and tracked out nicely, and I am a stickler for tracking and balance.
They flew great.
Not a problem with them, Just the Pilot.
Give them a try.

Keep Her Flying
R http://image2-0.rcuniverse.com/e1/forum/image/s3.gif N Sr

Sounds great mr. Disney :thumbup:

Please report back when you have flewn a few more times since my experience (quite limited but still) is that inexpensive blades can often last shorter. If they last - then I know where to buy my next blades :)

[cpc7084]

Hi,

I able to hover my Belt CP but I never try on my idle switch untill today ..and.. I did try it just now. this are the steps & what I found out:

1) Turned idle to up mode.
2) Turned On the transmitter.
3) Plugged in the heli batery ..and.. heard "bibi... bibi... bibi..."
4) Throttled up, throttle up, throttle up until full stick ...BUT...
5) Not things happen, the main rotor was NOT moving.

I wonder why? Is it some things not right with my Belt CP?
The "bibi..." sound shown that the heli was in break mode, is it where idle up mode should be?

Sorry to ask a lot because I'm a new flying alone pilot.

Thanks

Regards
CPC

[another_finn]

You just had a lucky escape. In idle up, you have constant high throttle so the ESC went into programming mode. If it had armed, you would have stripped a main gear and possibly worse if the helicopter would have taken off. Never flick the switch until you're already up in a hover or around mid-stick and running light on the skids on the ground.

When you go to idle up to set your pitch, the very first step before you turn anything on is to disconnect the motor.

[cpc7084]

Thanks Mika.

Wa!Ha! what a big big shock!

Such important safety issue should have in the user manual, especialy for those beginners like me. Seeing that I have to find one experinced pilot to fly with me.

Thanks again.

[mecevans]

great guide, i found setting all the linkages to the lengths in the manual is a great starting point. the stock linkages are totally off from what the manual says.

[wherndon]

Where did you find in a manual what the length of the linkages should be?

[mnwizard]

Where did you find in a manual what the length of the linkages should be?

Here's a link, it's on the bottom of page 19.

Be patient, it takes a minute or so to open, Esky needs to update their website.

Also it's a .PDF file so you need Adobe Reader installed to see it.

http://www.twf-sz.com/english/download/manual/Beltcp.pdf

[cpc7084]

Happy day,

I feel that the Belt-CP tail is quite heavy, my heli keep moving backward while hovering. I did try to place my battery as out as posible to get a better CG but this make me very difficuit to fix in the canopy.

Any idea to overcome this problem? Is the carbon fibre tail boom works on this issue?

Regards,
CPC

[another_finn]

The CF tail boom doesn't do much - if anything, it feels slightly heavier than the stock aluminum version. The only real cure I found was going to a T-Rex canopy so you have more space up front, and 2100 mAh batteries. The 20C EK1-0187 gave me decent balance when placed forward of the stock location. Something in the vicinity of 170 - 180 grams should be perfect for a stock plastic version. Don't know about the Carbon Edition... Looks like it would be even more tail heavy.