Raptor 50 or 60? Which to buy?

[shoe612]

I've been flying helis almost a year now and planes for years. Started with a Blade CP Pro last June. Got a T-Rex450SA a couple months later and now I'm looking to buy a bigger heli. I was looking at buying a T-Rex 600E, but after much thought and consideration of prices, run times, and life cycles, I'm gonna go to a nitro instead. That's till the large li-po batt packs come down in price or something happens in the A123 and other battery chemisty markets.

I've always loved the looks of the Raptor so I decided to go with it. I'm flying mostly sport type stuff now. I like doing aerobatics (as I've done a lot with airplanes) so that's coming along, been doing some light 3D and I think I'll definately be doing more. I also like and appreciate larger ships because I hate to fly in windy condition we seem to have far too often.

Was looking at either a

Rap50V2 w/a OS 50 Hyper, Futaba 401, Futaba 9202s, Futaba 9254 on tail

or

Rap60V2 w/a OS 70, with same combo

Seems to me,

50 = somewhat lower upfront cost, cheaper to fix, little less fuel, similar perf. for lower cost, sufficient power, handles wind ok, autos ok

60 = little more expensive upfront, more expensive to fix, more fuel, excellent perf., excess power, handles wind well, more stable and smooth, easier to see, autos better

Looks like it comes down to crash kits, (seems like a big difference in price, correct?) and fuel on the money side. Does a lot of stuff break on the 60? I don't crash that often.

How do they fly respectively?

Any help would be appreciated.

Mike

[vandelescrow]

I would say you've done your research. Once you go over 50 size the price goes up in all the areas you mentioned. I own two 50's and one 90. So far I have not been able to fly the 90 enough to even break in the engine due to weather so I can't tell you about breakage. However, it is built vary sturdy and compared to the construction of a 50, I'd say the parts would wear about the same. We are really only talking about ball links and bearings. I did notice on the 90, even with how little I've flown it, the gears in the tail (back by the blades) are not vary strong and break easy. I've already gone through one set due to the engine quiting. I was told if the engine died fast enough, there is enough inertia in the tail blades to break / strip the gears. Surprising considering they are on a one way bearing.

90 and 60 are basicly the same, just like 50 and 30. The differences (if you don't know) length of boom, motor mount and blade size.

The 50's, I have not had to replace any parts on either of them in the 3 years I've been flying due to wear.

edit/
Sorry, on the 50's I have had to replace the clunk lines

[shoe612]

Thanks for the insights!

Well it looks like I'll be getting the Rap 60. I had a guy PM me about a Rapt 60 V2 w/TT 70 ARF he's had sitting around in his workshop collecting dust that's never been run. That's right, a brand new bird and he gave me a price of $450 plus shipp.

It looks like a deal I can't turn down. My only concern it the TT engine. I've seen some mixed reviews about them. I was going to go with a OS 70 if I wasn't getting a engine wit it, but I'd like to give the TT a try.

I've had great luck with 2C engines in my airplanes. I usually only set the needles once and fly the crap out of them, till they loose power from wear. On a really hot humid day, I might enrichen the HS needle a couple of clicks, but other than that I don't have to tinker with'em usually. I've seen people twist and twist their needles, run it up, twist and twist their needles, run it up, all day long (in the pits of course, right next to you, your friend, or some other poor guy trying to enjoy his day without the unessasary racket). Then you try to offer them some help because you feel bad for them, cuzz you know it's gotta suck, and you know that you can set it up for'em in 5 mins or less. That's if he's willing to listen to your advice, and take it. Oh yeah, and there isn't some weird azz pin hole air leak, you can't see in the carb or lines somewhere, or a fuel tank that's mounted 3" below the needle valves. Sorry for the crazy-man rant (Its' genetic. At least, that's what the voices in my head tell me), but I see this go on way too frequently.

Any opinions out there? Is it a bad mixed bag in QC for the TT's, a not so great design, a stigma from the QC of earlier of TT engines, or a lot of operator error?

Mike

[vandelescrow]

I dont know about the TT70, I hear the TT37 would quit in mid air for no reason. This was a while ago so TT may have fixed the problem.

Yes at our field we have those guys running there engine at full speed, right next to the club house. When you ask them to move further down the flight line they look at like your nuts.

[NINJA RICK]

Get a new titan. Enjoy the build and learn the machine inside and out. By the time you go

back through another persons work, you could have built a new machine.

I had a raptor 60 with a os 70 and it was a good machine, but I converted it to a 90 simply

because it needed more power for 3-d.

you could also buy the sixty , sell the engine and convert it to a 90, and never look back.

[Dave]

Once you get a 60 you will be itching for a Raptor 90. My suggestion is skip right to the 90. Sounds like you have the desire and enough stick time to make the plunge. The 90 3D has petty much all you will ever want.

[Laurens]

60 = little more expensive upfront, more expensive to fix, more fuel, excellent perf., excess power, handles wind well, more stable and smooth, easier to see, autos better


You're wrong on the excess power remark, it DOES have more power but also more weight.

If money isn't an issue you should get the R60. It flies great, much easier then the R50. If you're beyond loops and rolls you can upgrade to a 90 for a reasonable price. However the R50 will do everything possible right out of the box.

[Lottomunch]

That's what I've heard. (the 50 having a better power to weight ratio than the 60)

You look around and there a million video's with guys really tearing it up on a 50. They don't have the beautiful hang time the larger heli's have but the performance seems much better than that of a 60.

What do I know....I"m too poor to even look at those "bigger" heli's. :)

Daniel

[Laurens]

Me too, thats why I pretend they're smaller.

[scott9999]

I just exhausted feed back on another post inquiring about which way to go nitro or electric. Nitro seemed to get the upper hand and that is the way I was leaning mainly due to fly time and battery cost. Anyway Heli Proz has a combo on with a Raptor 50 , servos, dx7 os 50 engine and a couple other items for $1400.00 could you guys tell me what else is required to get going and cost?,

I would appreciate it thanks

[vandelescrow]

Scott 9999

if it does not include a gyro: apx 150 to over 300 including tail servo

field gear:
glow ignighter
starter
fuel pump
fuel bottle couplings

set up tools:
allen wrenches
screw drivers
blade balencer
pitch guage
LOCKTIGHT

Your tool kit will grow over time but this is the minimum you should have. I put locktight all in caps becasue every screw / bolt going into metal needs it, at the field if you loosen one, relocktight it.

I've answered this question befor with links to all the gear and prices so take a look further down the forum it you want specifics.

[scott9999]

Thanks much.I think I have decided to go Nitro 50-60 any preferences on size and any
anguements for Raptor over say Align or other brands would be appreciated.

Just trying to tap into the wealth of experince out there. Thanks

[vandelescrow]

Well you read this thread so you know the pros and cons of 50 vs 60. As far as Raptor vs others. You mentioned align (T-rex600), R/C Heli magazine recently did a review on these helis stating they require more maintnance. They are the lightest 50 size heli on the market but due to this, they suffer strength and require more attention to bolts and ball links loosening up. Raptor and T-rex is what I hear about and see the most of so I can not comment on others. Parts availability for bothRaptor and T-rex is about the same via on-line stores. One thing you should do is go to your local flying field and see what they are flying. For a first heli, having someone close that knows about that heli can be invaluable to help you set it up and diagnose problems. What does your LHS keep in stock as far as replacement parts? If your LHS only has parts for "X" heli, you will not have to wait for the brown man in the brown truck carring your brown box in order to fly again.

[scott9999]

Thanks so much your feedback.I will check to see what if any of the bigger heli parts my LHS stocks. Thanks again