Help Please......

[Aussie_G]

I have an Axe CP that will not lift off until absolute full throttle...

Heres the background.

I crashed last week, broke the centre hub, 1 blade holder, 1 servo horn & bent the boom.
I replaced all the broken parts, and upgraded to a carbon tail rotor & carbon vertical MicroHeli Fin.

I leveled the swashplate when I replaced the servo horn.

But now when I throttle up, the heli drifts left more than before, and it will not lift off the ground until I am right at full throttle.
In Idle-Up I have to give almost full left stick to make the heli light, but it moves left so hard Im afraid to take off, even with right cyclic, it wont overcome the left drift.

I hope one of you guru's can point me in the right direction. I just cant see the problem, but I know its there..

[rockjock3]

I had the same problem. Ensure your paddles are also zero pitch at mid throttle. I had a crash and all was good, but the ACP would just barely come off the ground. I looked and looked and couldn't see anything. Finally I put it up and came back the next day. When I came back to it I found the flybar paddles were slightly turned.

[Leaf Blower]

I have an Axe CP that will not lift off until absolute full throttle...

Heres the background.

I crashed last week, broke the centre hub, 1 blade holder, 1 servo horn & bent the boom.
I replaced all the broken parts, and upgraded to a carbon tail rotor & carbon vertical MicroHeli Fin.

I leveled the swashplate when I replaced the servo horn.

But now when I throttle up, the heli drifts left more than before, and it will not lift off the ground until I am right at full throttle.
In Idle-Up I have to give almost full left stick to make the heli light, but it moves left so hard Im afraid to take off, even with right cyclic, it wont overcome the left drift.

I hope one of you guru's can point me in the right direction. I just cant see the problem, but I know its there..

Steps that you might have missed.
0. Remove your bullet connectors to your motor for safety.
1. Remove all subtrim and trim from your current setup - i.e. off from the transmitter- as in set them to zero and trims to center.
2. Re-center your servo horns back to center or as closely as you can. Use the subtrim to get them level- i.e. 90 degrees...
3. Relevel your swashplate. This should be done in, typically in IDLE UP. Check to be sure that your pitch curve is at 50% when at Center Stick on the throttle. Use either a specialty leveling tool or an allen wrench..
4. Adjust your pitch linkages so that the pitch gage shows 0 degrees when at center stick. You might need to adjust both sides. This should be in idle up as well.
5. Check your pitch settings for high, medium, low, and inbetween for both Idle Up and Normal modes. Adjust as necessary. My suggestion would be to find the manufacturer's pitch recommendation and go from there unless you have a preference.

If you found that you missed a step or two from before, just go ahead and start it all over from the beginning.

Don't assume that the settings are right after replacing parts. Double check them and inspect all critical parts, bolts, servos, ball-links, etc. They might work for a while, but then and again- it may come apart while up in the air. I've personally broken ball-links that you could not tell were broken until you tried to split them apart.

I would also suggest looking at the servos - before hand and checking to see if the gears have stripped or are malfunctioning otherwise. They should move smoothly and more or less evenly when moving up and down. From my last crash, I had two servos strip gears but they seemed fine at the time and didn't notice it until I went to redo the entire pitch- I would have noticed if I had flipped it though.The machine developed a pull to the one side so I went to redo the whole head assembly. All three cyclic servos ended up needing replaced....

[Aussie_G]

Thank you very much for the info, I cant say I missed any of the steps, but I am an absolute beginner, so i probly didnt do them right, I also dont have sub-trim or curves on my radio, im using the heli-max 5ch radio that came with my axe cp

I will go through the manual and try to find what the factory pitch settings are, I have spent a lot of time watching the finless video's - they helped a lot.

Then I think ill start from the bottom of the head & work it all out from the bottom up.
I guess i need to balance the blades too.

[Leaf Blower]

Most pairs of blades from the factories are pretty close when it comes to balance. However, if you mix blades from different pairs- all bets are off. If you see a vibration, consider balancing- but also consider that the main shaft or feathering shaft is bent even if it is real slight, you will see a definite vibration once spun up. Most helis vibrate a little as they spin up- some worse than others, but it typically smooths out by the time you've reached a decent headspeed.

Without any curves and such on the radio, reconfiguring should be quite easy to figure out. Some cheaper computerized radios don't have displays, have curves, and have their own particular methods of programming them.

When replacing a failed part that is part of a pair or set, seriously consider replacing them as a set.. For example, if you destroy a cyclic servo, consider replacing the set and use the same model servo on all. For your blade holder, replace both initially. Keep what you believe to be the good one for a spare.. It will eliminate that piece from causing a vibration or out of balance condition.