How many teeth in Swift 16 main gear?

[ghopper]

Thanks Kaan,

So will using a govener cut into the efficiency of the power system....ie shorter flight times if I use one? I'll probably try it both ways just to see for myself which I like best.

Dan

[ghopper]

A couple of more questions. I've got a chance to buy a 1907/1.5y NUE motor. It is rated at 915 KV. Should work very well on 6s setup. I've got 4 3s 2100 mah bats that I could wire up in series and parallel. I think the weight would be somewhere around 720 gram. Do you think it would fit in the Swift? Would it be hard on the bats? I'd plan to buy a couple more 4000 -5000mah bats to use eventually. I was just wondering if this would work for a temp basis. Buying 3 harnesses would be pretty cheap to get me started until I could get some more bats. To complicate things even more, they are from 3 different manufacturers. Also, is there a tach that you would recommend? I've seen the $24.00 ones at the low end, and a couple at $150 for the high end. I hate to pay for that top end if I could get by with something much cheaper. It seems the cheap ones make you get really close to those spinning blades:shock:

Dan

[kaan.gok]

It will depend on your setup but, I don't think a governor will lenghten or shorten flight times dramatically, especially if you're not onto 3d.

Lowering headspeed will help, but you can do it without a governor (lowering your throttle curve or dropping down the pinion size). Do not set your throttle curve too low, it may cause overheating problems on some ESC's.

Since you already have an ESC with a good governor trying it will be the best option, but remember to set it up correctly. ESC governors are a little tricky to set up compared to an external governor where you can enter a menu and dial up the required headspeed. You'll need an optical tachometer and do it by trial& error by setting throttle level and pinion size as far as I know. Do a search on the forums, I'm not very experienced on setting ESC governors, I run a pretty cheap 80A oemrc ESC from unitedhobbies on my Swift :) . It does have a governor function, but never bothered to try it.

[ghopper]

I've downloaded the CC85HV vids that finless did. It seems fairly straightforward as to how to set it up. Without a tach, I'd just have to set it to 75 percent and whatever it is, it is and then just see how it flew. In the vids I didn't see where they set the pitch to 0, but I assume that is what they did during the setup. I thought it was interesting that his throttle was less in gov mode to obtain the same headspeed as what he got while checking endpoints. Scratch my head on that one. Any thoughts on my bat question?

Dan

[centuryman]

I used the finless bob video to set up my phazor and the setup was almost perfect first time.
Skytach %85.00 heliproz works great and can go to 3300 so it works on minis to.and you can use it from a long distance as long as you can still see the heli.
I have done simular on the batterys I have used 2170 fp in series on my swift to get 6s for hovering it is fine,for 3D it is awesome lots of power little weight ,run times only about 2.5 minute in 3d,and the batteries got to hot. but for hovering it would be fine and you would probbaly get 4 min and if you do a double parrell ,series setup you could get 7 to 8 min.The neu motor is my motor of choice. I run one in my phzor .Has awesome power ,runs cool,and is efficent, plus you can run up to 8s with that motorand kv rateing.witch is what i am doing in my Phazor and my new swift that i am just finishing up.I would recomend staying away from 4s setup.
The reason's are,the lower the voltage the less efficient the motor is,so run times will be less. as a general rule,(and i just had a discussion with an NEU rep two days ago on this subject)you whant to run your motor on the highest volage that your gearing will allow.
The lower your voltage the more amps you have to pull,and the hotter your speed control and motor will get, and on hot days that can be bad,it will mean you will have to let everything cool off in between flights and you could fry some exspensive electronics.
Headspeed for that heli needs to be at least 1800, due to it's small blades. to make it stable just put on some hawk pro paddles and it will make you yawn it'll be so stable.If your headspeed is to low you'll have to run to much pitch and there goes your efficiency thing again.
So I would run that 1907 neu on 6 s and useing a 11 tooth pinion will get you about 1900 hs.and should be an efficient ,cool running set up with boocoo power for when your feeling up to it.
As far as the govener I use it in mine because it keeps the headspeed conatant and there for it is easier for the gyro to do it's job,However I fly mine pretty hard and with the power and tourqe of eletrics it can be challengeing for a gyro to keep up.For hovering eihter will work.As for throttle cuve you need to have the motor running at75 to 85% power in order for there to be enough power left for pitch changes,otherwise the motor will bog when you punch the collective.And you don't whant to be below 75% because you will heat things up and can end up letting the magic smoke out of you electronics.In govener mode it will be a flat throttle stting usually around 80% in your radio.If you use the non govener mode you will need v shaped cuves. I would recomend useing govener mode much simpler in my opinion,let the esc do the thinking for you.and the castle govener mode works very well and is adjustable just like your gyro for gain so you can slow or speed up your throttle response.I think for hovering the govener woul probably give you slightley better run times.I started with the 4s setup and wished i hadn't waisted the money especially after frying 2 esc's granted they were century esc's son not high quality.and since you have batteries to make a 6s it's a no brainer to me.any more indepth questions you can pm me. I have a bit of experiance with castle esc's:)and swift's:)

[ghopper]

Wow,,,,thanks Centuryman That covers everything. 6S here I come!! :thumbup:

Dan

[RAV50]

Centuryman,

"The neu motor is my motor of choice. I run one in my phzor .Has awesome power ,runs cool,and is efficent, "

Have you ran the current Century 600+ relative to the NEU.

I found my 600+ ran a lot cooler then did my NEU ... using the same 6S battery packs and pulling 550 and 560mm blades geared for rotor speeds of 1900 to 2100.

[centuryman]

I have the 600 aplus motor in one of my swifts and yes it runs good.
the neu 1907's that i'm running (2) of them are both running on 8s.
perhaps thats the differnce.
I know on 8s the 1907 is a coolrunner and man does it have some awesome power.mine will pull 620 blades in my 7.5 pound phazor at 13/13 pitch and be under a hundred dergees after a hard 3D flight.At 2100 headspeed.
Do you have the new heliversion with the fan or the old airplane version without, that could certanly make a huge difference.
did you run a castle esc or the generic cenury esc.My 600aplus ran a lot hotter with the century esc then it does now with the castle.

[ghopper]

Is the new motor the one with the H designation? The one I'm looking at is non H I believe.

Dan

[ghopper]

I have the 600 aplus motor in one of my swifts and yes it runs good.
the neu 1907's that i'm running (2) of them are both running on 8s.
perhaps thats the differnce.
I know on 8s the 1907 is a coolrunner and man does it have some awesome power.mine will pull 620 blades in my 7.5 pound phazor at 13/13 pitch and be under a hundred dergees after a hard 3D flight.At 2100 headspeed.
Do you have the new heliversion with the fan or the old airplane version without, that could certanly make a huge difference.
did you run a castle esc or the generic cenury esc.My 600aplus ran a lot hotter with the century esc then it does now with the castle.

So it's possible that I would not be using the motor efficiently at only 6s? That would be a problem as I've already bought a non HV ESC. I may have more thinking and planning to do yet.

Dan

[RAV50]

Why should you be concerned about parts availability?

In almost three years of flying them, I have never had a problem.

I also fly a number of other Century birds and have also never had any more trouble getting parts for them then I have had with any other top brand of heli I have ever owned.

The only time I have ever had trouble getting parts for any helis I have ever owned, was when I purchased some new "off brand" heli on the net.

Century has been making helis for 20 years - they have learned the value of having parts for us.

[ghopper]

?????? Rav,
Was that post in reference to my one of my first posts in this thread? If so, I've pretty much decided it wouldn't be an issue or else I wouldn't have bought the kit. :) Looks like I'm buying the NUE 1907 1.5y motor. The price was just too good to pass up for a quality motor.

Dan

[Greybird]

I think a Z or Century 600 would have been a better choice. Remember this post the first time you fly, and land and grab the motor and think, Why is this motor so HOT?

[ghopper]

Hi Greybird,
I'll keep that in mind. If that is the case then maybe this motor needs 8s to run efficiently. I just figured for the price I had nothing to lose by trying it. I know the Nue's are good motors as is the Century. One is inrunner, the other outrunner. If I make a mistake, I'm a big boy, I can fix it, change it, or whatever needs to be done. My problem with the century is I felt it was too high a KV to use HV, and I am keeping my eye on that possibility. More to follow I'm sure thanks for the input :lol:

Dan

[centuryman]

If you gear it right .I don't think you'll have a problem on 6s.You probably won't whant to run back to back batteries because the motor you have doesn't have a fan.Alot of people run those motors on 6s and they work fine.Alot of it is in the esc,and you have that covered with the castle esc,the castle has the ability to change the motor timeing,
I just had a conversation with a Neu rep on friday,and he was saying that Neu's like low timeing.And with the castle esc you can accomadate that .I'm running mine on standard timeing with no overhaet issues.But i have the h (helicopter) version's with the fan.Also there is a hole in the windsheild on the swift for the purpose of cooling.If you elongated that hole to exspose the motor to the rotor wash I'm sure that would help signifigantly
I have the 600aplus century motor and it ran very hot when i was running 4s,But i was useing a century esc at the time .Same motor on 6s with the cc 80 pheniox runs coolas a cucumber doing hard 3D with 550 widechord blades.

[ghopper]

Hi Centuryman,
So for someone like me who is just learning to hover and basic flight, where not much air is gonna get to the motor other than propwash it should be ok. I think I saw somewhere where there is a fan you can put on it, or maybe even heatsinks. Does that ring a bell or is it even worth the effort?

Dan

[centuryman]

Heatsink is a good idea and so is the fan if it's desighned for the motor,or are you refureing to a electric fan. anyways if it's a fan that attaches to the shaft. remember that motor is spinning 15000 rpm plus it better be in perfect balance.you could maybye send it to neu and have them install the fan.I think a heatsink and some airflow will be fine for your aplication.
I would just try it first. with the proper gearing and esc setup i think it will be fine.Remember to run the esc between 75 and 85% for best effeciancy and coolest running.

[ghopper]

Roger that, I'll just get it going and see how things look then.

Dan

[wormburner]

About the parts availability thing...
I'm considering buying a swift 16 (because crashes with my T-Rex 600 are too expensive), but I noticed that towers lists some of the parts as "discontinued". Does this mean that Century is stopping production of 16 parts? Have the parts been superceded by 550 parts? Can I upgrade a 16 to a 550?

Sorry if these questions have been covered before, it's just that I haven't found them yet.

Thanks.

[JustPlaneChris]

I asked that very question when I noticed some Hawk parts were marked as discontinued at Tower. Here's the reply I received from a Century rep:

We have not and do not plan to discontinue to the Hawk.

Tower has stated that after analyzing sales on some of the replacement parts, they decided to discontinue parts that were sold in low volume. If they get requests for these discontinued items, they would make them active and keep them in stock.

So fear not! It's just Tower that is discontinuing some of the parts. :)

[GyroAl]

Chris,

I can understand Tower's position. From my experience with my Swift 16 or Hawk Pro's and their mainframes for example. Thes parts required to be replaced after most crashes with my Rappy, but I have never had to, with either the Swift 16 or the Hawk Pro (and I have had some pretty spectacular crashes with them)...ditto for a number of other parts, like the flybar control links, the clutch, the auto bearing etc.

So I am sure many hobby shops that have experience with other helis, would have initially stocked such parts when they started selling the Swift or the Hawks, but would have found these parts to be rather redundant as stocked items, as they would probably not have found they sold enough to make them worth stocking.

Sometimes, it seem, having pats that are super reliable and very crash resistant, can actually cause a slight problem. Fortunately there are a number of of other options to Tower, that are more concerned about stocking all parts for the helis they sell. They may be priced a little more, but that is probably what justifies their investment in the extra parts inventory.

[aramsdell]

A set of 550's that are tip-weighted will definately help you along with the autos. If your're not going that big then still look for tip-weighted blades. I got some small blades to play with thinking of cutting a Swift down to 500mm blades and shortening the boom. I got some Gaui 500's . Wood blades with no leading edge weights. Could be disastrous. Loss of head speed would happen quickly if too little negative collective were used in an auto. Boom.