600n Sport or Pro?

[ceads7]

Currently fly Rex 450 and looking to purchase a 600n. Understand the benifits of the TT vs. belt drive. Thoughts regarding frame composite vs. CF? All suggestions/opinions are welcome to help justify added expense. Please also recommend servo preference, GOV and OS vs YS motor? Thanks

[Mike_117]

What kind of budget are you lookin at. it will make a big difference to what is recommended.

[ceads7]

Would like to keep around $1200, not including Gyro or radio/receiver (have ready for new bird). The LHS here in OKC that specilizes in Helis states this can be done (complete RTF) for $1,000 including support equipment. Having a hard time believing this as I am not going to spend the money and have cheap electronics.

[Mike_117]

I flew the sport with the belt and upgraded to the TT..

To get started into nitro..I spent at least $400 on support gear..(starters,pumps,plugs,wrenches,field box..etc..)

Then, I spent close to $2000 on just the 600N.

[ceads7]

I notice you have the pro, outside of the belt/TT was there noticable differences in the bird?

[Big Fil]

What level of flying do you do now and what do you want out of the bird? I've flown both and both fly well enough have more ability than what most flyers would notice. If your new and still learning i'd stay away from the TT. Your not going to notice any difference in flying between them until you really start splitting hairs.

[ceads7]

Beginner to the hobby, still working through orientation. I have more money invested in the 450 than I would like to admit but realize in Oklahoma that a bird that small is not capable of handling the winds we have on most days. I do not treat my investment as a mistake but would be further along in flying capability if I were able to get in the air more. At a recent fun fly I noticed the big birds were not really affected by the winds (the 450s and 500s were grounded with 20-30 mph winds). There was a gentleman there doing inverted autos with a 600n Sport attempting to flip the bird on it's skids after landing. He was successful on a few and took the bird back up in the air without concern. I am not planning on attemting this maneuver any time soon but struck me odd that a sport would be capable considering the GF frame, etc. Do not want to 'buy cheap, buy twice' if the upgrade is needed for future ability. Thanks for your feedback

[Moreflying]

.. Back to my thought..didn't have time today. 1200 seems about right not 1000 .

850 for the heli combo and blades, cyclic servos 3 x 80= 240, tail servo 100, throttle servo 30 dollars...no gov, RX, or gyro. $1220

Extras: Glow plugs #8, 6 dollars, 1 gal of fuel 20 dollars, starter & shaft 40-50 dollars, Fuel pump and fuel line for it 20 dollars, pitch gauge for 600 blades 20 dollars..the one for your 450 won't work, step down for tail servo 4 bucks, heavy duty servo extension 2 bucks,

[Mike_117]

..

Why did u edit?..


I notice you have the pro, outside of the belt/TT was there noticable differences in the bird?

Sport version
- G10 frames. (some think its a downside..)
- Belt driven tail
- Plastic Canopy

Pro version
- Torque Tube tail
- CF frames
- Fiberglass canopy

Super Pro version
- All pro parts
w\ metal grips, metal mixing arms, frame supports.. ? more? ..all upgrades currently by Align..

The TT tail is rock solid.. backwards flight and piros and it sticks the belt seemed spongy on release..but for sport flying seemed ok.
read all the posts about sticking the tail in the ground tendencies and loosing the TT gears and bought the belt. when I realized I don't have that problem and can control my bird so that the tail doesn't strike the ground... then I got the TT.. 20+ flights with original white gears. still strong.. even had to auto a few times after I ran out of fuel.

[cd5]

I like the sport as it is cheaper to crash. The belt tail is fine . It autos well without the TT. And if you realied on the extra eficiency of the TT in an auto to save you, then your in trouble anyway. If your doing inverted autos the tt might help ,but it doesnt sound like you are yet.
I also think their is a lot of good things to be said for gf also. You dont get radio signal shadowing, its non conductive, It seems to flex more before it will break,and is a lot cheaper to replace.
The only downside is the flex. But you can brace the frame up to get it very stiff. Get the gyro mount plate , and the rc booya canopy mount from readyheli.these items brace the frame in the flexi areas and are upgrades worth having anyway. also get some extra frame mounting bolts and drll the frame and use these where you think things are flexi. i put one in front of the fuel tank in the centre.and finally if you, want you can get the carbon frame braces to bolster up the weak points in the frame. These are recomended if using cf or gf anyway. Acouple of bucks later, and youve overcome any flex issues.
Most people i dont think will tell the difference between the pro and the sport when it comes to flying.
I personally would get the sport, keep it affordable , and if i ever get to being able to out fly the machine,it would be time for a 90.
By the sounds of it you are new to the hobby. So i think the sport will serve you a number of years. Spend the money you save on the airframe, on things that you can move from heli to heli as you do grow. ie get that better gyro of the two, or get the better servos etc.
You wont be dissapointed either way.

[rupps5]

I am kind of in the same boat as ceads7 (http://www.helifreak.com/member.php?u=43778). Does anyone know what the weight difference is between the sport and the pro?

[cd5]

I dont know for sure which would be heavier, but i would think it is very very little between the two. gf is heavier than cf , but i believe the TT is heavier than the belt. So in that regards the two helis would almost cancel each other out, and their pretty much the same after that. I think your weight gains or loss wil come down to what you put in the heli. ie header tank/no header tank
large capacity flight battery /smaller capacity or lite pack
large governor with amp ie gv-1/smaller lighter gov ie revlock
Weight of tune pipe
type of regulator
Amount of bling
etc etc

People i know who have had other 50s say this heli flys very light for a 50 anyway. I wouldnt let the weight differences really be a huge deciding factor in the decision. If you are really really pushing the heli to the point where every couple of grams means something to you , then you would get the pro, to utilise the TT more than the weight savings anyway.

[c_forthofer]

My sport (with lipo pack, Align 2 in 1, Mini throttle servo, Carbsmart, Multigov and 9 channel JR 2.4 reciever) weighs a hair over 7 pounds dry. Dont know what a pro would wiegh similarly equipped but thats a starting fram of reference.

Chris.

[supergenius]

Currently fly Rex 450 and looking to purchase a 600n. Understand the benifits of the TT vs. belt drive. Thoughts regarding frame composite vs. CF? All suggestions/opinions are welcome to help justify added expense. Please also recommend servo preference, GOV and OS vs YS motor? Thanks

If you're looking to save money, check this guy out http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZall-e-rc . I got my 600N pro from him and I am very pleased with it. The auctions say the canopy is damaged and removed, but that is not the case. Mine was a little (very little) warped, but I let it set in the sun for two hours on the heli and now it is fine.