New to gassers

[iconnary]

Hey all, I've got a brand new Spectra-G with a Hanson G26 3D-Max on the way. I've been flying electric and 30/50/90 nitro helis for many years so I'm not new to the game but I've never owned a gasser before. Current machine is a Raptor 90 that I love but am getting very tired of nitro fuel prices and the associated oily mess all over my heli.

The machine will have the Tempest head, Century v3 muffler, and I've got most of the electronics ordered (JR8717s for the cyclic, GY611/9254).

I have zero experience with gassers, nobody at my field who flies one, and a bunch of questions. Everyone please chime in if you can help.

1) Any advice or suggestions in the build process? I understand I'll want a larger tank (Dubro 16oz) -- does anyone have a part number for this?

2) Are there any other must-have add-ons or mods for the Spectra I should know about?

3) I believe fueling/defueling a gasser is different from a nitro heli. What exactly is the process? Do I bother with an electric/handcrank fuel pump or should I just get a squeeze bulb? Any suggestions on brands/models to stick with?

4) Is the MA air filter worth getting? Performance/noise differences vs the stock airbox? Quieter is better for me.

5) I'm interested in an onbard generator -- where can I get one? Does anybody make one that'll charge a 6v nicd/nimh rx pack?

6) I have a GV-1 but didn't find I needed it on the Raptor 90. Is a governor more useful on a gasser? Where can I buy a StatorGator?

7) Any issues running a 2.4GHz FASST radio with a magneto engine? I've read posts suggesting they are less susceptible to EMI off the ignition, but has anyone every verified this?

Thanks
Iven

[rbort]

Firstoff, welcome to gasser world!

Build - follow the instructions. The tempest head build might have a different set of instructions than the original manual. Contact Minair or Carey Shurley to make sure you have what you need. Special tip, Minair changed the tail box from open to all metal closed. When building the pushrod for the tailrotor, don't cut it or commit to it until everything is installed and ready. The original instructions had measurements accurate only for the open tailbox. Don't use the t-s, one way valve or clunk or tank that comes with the machine. The Dubro 16oz tank is my idea as the stock tank is too small. Its just a standard tank with a hump on the lower side. Mount it inverted on the bottom of the radio tray so the hump is on top and this makes room for the canopy chin to clear the tank.

Add-ons - heavier paddles, JR rubber landing gear dampeners JR960117 for higher clearance, less damage in case of crash. Get a Walbro 615-912 clunk for the machine. Use tygon tubing (thicker than supplied) inside the tank for this clunk.

Watch my video on you-tube for fueling, defueling, and for easy starting. Here is a link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3Nra3iDOHI

Get any gas can you want with a pump, either squeeze (lifetime service) or hand crank. Important part is to have an airtight can (less smell), and should be a red plastic so you can fill it legally at the gas station.

The MA filter is not worth getting. I got one, but really I don't see a whole lot of benefit. All it seems to do is make cold starting harder (more pulls), that's about it. Noisewise its a bit louder than the stock. With the stock, you have a choke for easy starting, and also the choke doubles as an emergency kill switch.

You get the on-board generator from me. Generator, Spectra-g mount and voltmagic battery monitor all in stock if you want. Just PM me. The mount uses doubler plates that replace ones in the kit, so building with the generator saves a step of removing the original plates and replacing them. Best upgrade you will ever buy, guaranteed and a "must have" over anything else in my opinion! Generator output is 5.4 to 5.5v. Works flawlessly with a 4 cell pack keeping it charged and running everything at this voltage. If you were to put a 5 cell pack, then you would need a generator output of 6.8v to keep a 5 cell battery charged. Your gyro will burn out. Stay with 5.5v and you will be very happy along with the rest of the electronics.

The gv-1 is definately nice, especially when you start to 3D and "waltz" in the skies. Use it, makes for a nicer machine all around and hold heading better during flips for example due to a constant headspeed. You don't need a stator gator. Take a block of wood and mount it to the bottom plate, then install the sensor that comes with the gv-1 on it. You use existing holes in the bottom plate to secure the wood, then aim the sensor on the crankcase to pickup the engine flywheel magnet. See my gallery (user Rbort) on Runryder to see a picture of this, and also of the generator stuff. You can also click homepage to see the generator homepage with more pictures and info there. Before I forget, headspeed, I use 1550 for normal, 1650 for idle up 1, and 1750 for idle up 2.

While I don't own a 2.4ghz radio yet, I hear that many people are. Some also like the generator as it keeps a constant voltage and prevents the receiver from resetting. I guess they are susceptable to resets due to low voltages.

Good luck with the machine and I'm sure you are going to love it!

-=>Raja.

[tad]

All the above w/ the addition of the servo supports from MA. RBORT is correct, you don't need MA air filter but it looks a lot better. The MA pro paddles are nice, you can adjust the weight if you want.

[iconnary]

Hey Raja, any chance I can get you to post a picture of your GV-1 sensor setup?

You mentioned in your previous post to mount the sensor to pickup the engine flywheel magnet. Am I to understand that there is already a magnet in the flywheel? If so, where exactly over the flywheel should the sensor be positioned?

Thanks

[rbort]

Go to runryder.com

Go to the gasser form and find any one of my posts (rbort user ID)

Click gallery below one of my posts to see my pictures.

The first picture in the top left is how I mounted my sensor. Just a block of wood screwed in from the bottom of the frame up through existing holes. Then screw the sensor to the top of it. Adjust the thickness of the block to get the sensor in the best position for maximum % read. The length of the block is long enough to straddle over two existing holes in the bottom plate do you don't have to drill anything. Paint it black to make it match and look good.

Also of interest you'll want to click homepage below my post and see the Jewel generator page. Pictures of it there and also in my gallery. Mount one of these on your Spectra and you are good to fly forever, just add gas.

Hope this helps!

-=>Raja.

[Forced_Induction]

Would that method also work with the multigov sensor or just for the GV1?

[kcflier]

You can order a Real Stator Sator from either of the Heliprozs or direct from the company
http://thestatorgator.com/
Hope this helps!