Added BEC now esc won't arm???????????

[misterg74]

Just added a sport BEC it is designed so you just plug your plug out of the esc into it and it into the throttle channel on the rx ....... Esc now doesn't arm ........... I dunno:arggg:

[ChuckTSeeker]

did you Re-Bind after installing the BEC??? ;)

[LockMD]

Just added a sport BEC it is designed so you just plug your plug out of the esc into it and it into the throttle channel on the rx ....... Esc now doesn't arm ........... I dunno:arggg:


I use the SportBEC too......just covering all basses.....

you have to solder it in at the ESC then plug the ESC into the BEC and BEC plug goes to throttle of rx.

[misterg74]

Yup twice

[misterg74]

Yeah exactley what i did esc wouldn't arm I then unplugged the signal wires and put them back as original ........ Nothing

[SeaComms]

Just a thought to try, try dropping the throttle trim down as low as it will go then restart - mine did that a while ago when I started it in throttle hold once. Needed to shut everything down and restart it all making sure in normal flight mode and throttle hold off before it came back to normal.

[kennys]

Which speed control are you using?

If your using an HV series like Castle Creations here is one example.

Sport Bec power leads connect directly to the battery, then connect your remainding lead from your bec into your battery port of your rx {if your using a on/off switch connect to switch first then plug into your rx}
Then the throttle lead of your speed control will plug into the throttle channel on your rx.

[misterg74]

k found the problem one of the wires broke off the ESC ................ Sooooooooooo next question? Should i replace with the same or upgrade AND there are so many ESC's to chose from which one do you guys suggest??????? :(

[carlo_the_wonder_frog]

Just resolder the wire back on.

[jwsr]

Misterg,
Glad you found the problem. I just now finished installing a Sport BEC on my 400. The first thing I noticed was that the connector coming from the stock ESC was a very loose fit when plugged into the new BEC. If anyone has problems arming after installation, I would check there first. I removed each wire from the plastic plug end and lightly crimped the ends a little tighter . When put back in the plastic plug, it made a very tight fit. No dental floss needed. I knew if I hadn't done this, I would have had a contact problem. I'd been through this several times with my little Walkera 5G6. Their connectors are terrible about being too loose.

BTW, the only time you need to rebind is if you are programming in a new model, or changing out receivers or transmitters. Binding only matches your receiver to your transmitter signal, getting them in sync.

Jerry

[SeaComms]

BTW, the only time you need to rebind is if you are programming in a new model, or changing out receivers or transmitters. Binding only matches your receiver to your transmitter signal, getting them in sync.

Jerry

Hi Jerry, not quite complete there - it also resets the default or centre points of each channel, which is the position all servos return to in case of loss of signal. So if you have adjusted the trims or subtrims for a nice level flight, you want to rebind as well, otherwise if you do somehow loose signal the default positions of the servos will not be your true centre and could be the difference between a few seconds of level but uncontrolled flight and an instant lawn dart.

Cheers, Dave.

[jwsr]

Hello Seacoms,

I know this much; I replaced my cyclic servos with 65MG's, my tail servo with a 9650, and my gyro with a Logictech 2100T and never did any re-binding. After everything was installed I just set the model to all default settings, but set the swash mixing to +60 +60 -60. Turned on Tx and Rx, set the servo arms 90, adjusted swash level and pitch (ending up with +60 +60 -85), no re-bind.

Hovers sweet, with a very solid tail. But, I'm still in the hover learning phase, however.

Best wishes,
Jerry

[SeaComms]

Yep, everything you stated there I agree with, however if you added any subtrim to centre the servos perfectly, this will not be 'remebered' by the receiver until a rebind. Easy way to show this is to add a heap of subtrim to a servo, then switch off the transmitter and the servo will reset to its previously bound centre. If you now rebind with this heap of subtrim, this will be the new 'default centre' so when you switch of the transmitter it will stay still.

None of this will effect normal flying, its really only for if you loose the TX signal breifly for any reason, it sets the 'failsafe' positions of the servos to what you want them to be (with the exception of the throttle, it will always failsafe to off).

Cheers, Dave (a habitual studier of manuals and a lover of fiddling :))

[jwsr]

Well Dave, I guess I'm just gonna have to agree to disagree with you.:) I'm beginning to think we're confusing two different things here. When binding to a specific model, you're recording that models set-up parameters, not settings, except for one; the throttle failsafe setting. And this is determined by the stick position during binding. So, when binding in normal flight mode with stick at zero throttle, the way you should, this will be your default throttle failsafe. The DX6i only failsafes the throttle. The other servos will move to whatever your pitch curve hold position is, in either flight mode And these are "settings," that are remembered and saved every time you turn off the Tx. Again, the only "setting" that is remembered for failsafe, when binding, is your stick position for zero throttle.

Set-up before binding covers the following..........

"MODEL TYPE, SWASH TYPE, RANGE CHECK, MODEL NAME, THRO CUT, POWER SETTING, MONITOR, D/R COMBI, CONTRAST, REVERSE, TIMER, COPY/RESET, and access to your settings adjustments list- ADJUST LIST."

Here's a direct quote from the DX6i manual...........

Binding
The AR6200 receiver must be bound to the transmitter before it will operate. Binding is the process of teaching the
receiver the specific code of the transmitter so it will connect to that specific transmitter. Once bound, the receiver
will only connect to the transmitter when the previously bound model memory is selected. If another model
memory is selected, the receiver will not connect. This feature is called ModelMatch™ and prevents flying a model
using the wrong model memory.

Now, approaching this debate from another direction. When adjusting last time, I decided to go from ground up with a Trueblood swash leveling tool and Finless Bob's ccpm videos. I set the servo arms level, ending up with just +9 subtrim on pitch servo only. I attatched the linkages to the swash from the servos, and at center stick in idle up mode, checking the throttle and pitck curve monitors to verify center stick, I adjusted the swash perfectly level with the linkages. Then I adjusted both the high end and low end swash positions with endpoints. Travel is level throughout the entire range. I have +10 at FT and -10 at low end. In normal mode I have +10 at FT and -2 at low end. My hold settings are the same, zero pitch, and zero throttle in idle up, and -2 pitch and zero throttle in normal mode. All settings have been verified with a pitch guage at different stick settings along the graphs.

Now, being that all my adjustment settings have been saved according to that little memo I get when turning off the Tx, I know that when failsafe kicks in, I know that throttle will go to zero as the stick position was at zero during initial binding. And the servos will default to whatever the hold position I have set in my curves.

Being that "sub-trim" is an adjustiment under "settings," going by what you've said about rebinding, this would mean that any time you made any adjustment under the adjustable "settings," ie. pitch curves, throttle curves, D/R expo, etc. you would have to rebind with every adjustment. Wouldn't make much sense for a computerized, memory match radio like the DX6i?

I did a little test above some plush grass in the back yard. In normal mode I was in about a one foot hover. I turned off the Tx. Throttle went to zero, and landed fairly soft on the training gear. Leaving the radio settings as they were, I unplugged the battery, set the bird on the picnic table, leveled the fly bar, and put the pitch guage on it. Whattayaknow, -2 degrees pitch and level swash. So, I guess each to his own. No argument intended, just my experiences.:lol:

G'day and Happy Flying,
Jerry

[SeaComms]

Hi Jerry, this is what I was going on - page 19:

3. Establish the desired fail-safe stick positions: normally low throttle and flight controls neutral.
4. Pull and hold the trainer switch on the top of the transmitter while turning on the power switch. Within a few seconds the system should connect. The LEDs on the receivers should go solid, indicating the system has connected.
5. Remove the bind plug from the charge jack before turning off the receiver and store it in a convenient place.
6. After you’ve programmed your model, it’s important to rebind the system so the true low throttle and neutral control surface positions are programmed.

Cheers, Dave.