HeliArtist Airwolf w/Retracts: Build/Review

[BlackTitanium]

Welcome to my fleet the HeliArtist Blue Airwolf with retractable landing gear.
This is the 3rd generation of the Airwolf line from HeliArtist.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46386&stc=1&d=1209241369

The fuselage comes with weapons, but I opted to build it as a civilian Bell 222A.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46382&stc=1&d=1209240609


T-Rex 450 SE V2
Align Carbon Fiber Paddles
RC-Tek Tail Rotor Assembly
Mavrikk E-Series Carbon Blades 335mm
K&B Tail Rotor Blades
Motor: NeuMotors 1107/1.5Y
ESC: Kontronik Jazz 40-6-18
Gyro: JR G7703D
Rudder Servo: JR DS3400G
Cyclic Servos: HiTec HS65MG
LiPo: FlightPower EVO25 2170 mAh 3S 11.1V
TX/RX: DX7/AR7000
Retract Servo: HiTec HS65HB
Night Fly Slow Down Module w/Align 5.1V Step Down Regulator


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The upgraded CNC metal landing gear holds up well on a hard landing.

[BlackTitanium]

Fiber Glass scale fuselage x 1
Tinted window x 1
Horizontal stabilizer x 2
Vertical stabilizer x 3
Black wheel x 3
Front landing strut x 1
Rear landing strut x 2
Wood frame stand pieces x 1 Pack
Screw Pack x 1
Gun Set x 2
Retract hardware x 1 Pack
Cyanoacrylic glue x 1 Bottle
User manual x 2 page sheet

My kit came with Gun set x 4, and was missing the pack with the wood frame stand pieces. I had extra pieces from previous kits and was able to complete the build without the missing pack.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46387&d=1209241795

[BlackTitanium]

Time to break out the sand paper!
Because all of the parts are pre-painted, parts that need to be glued together will need to prepped for better adhesion. It would be nice if these parts were masked off in the factory and left unpainted at the glue points.

I sanded off the paint, at the point of contact, on the horizontal stabilizer and rough sanded the mounting spot on the fuselage

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46388&d=1209241984
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46389&d=1209241984


Using Z-Poxy to attach the fins to the fuselage, I used masking tape to hold the fins while the glue sets.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46390&d=1209241984

Use the self tap screws to mount the vertical stabilizers onto the horizontal stabilizers.
TIP: Use the 2 mm Allen head self tap screws that are used in the TREX kits. The philips head screws that come with the fuselage are hard to install and can strip.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46394&d=1209242114

The screw pack includes two self tap wood screws to mount the vertical stabilizer to the tail end cap.
TIP: You'll need to drill in some starter holes with a 2 mm bit, to prevent cracking the fuselage when installing the self tap screws. Use glue to thread lock the screws. Be careful not to over tighten the screws and strip the wood.

I prefer a more secure installation, and used 2-56 blind nuts and 2-56 socket head cap screws.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46391&d=1209241984
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46392&d=1209242114
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46393&d=1209242114


Mounting the windshield, per the manual, will break the continuity of the white pin stripe.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46413&d=1209243150

TIP: Use heavy duty double sided tape, and mount the windshield from the inside.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46416&d=1209243231
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46415&d=1209243150

[BlackTitanium]

The silver painted stock wheel struts and retract system linkages are made of wood.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46411&d=1209242917
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46412&d=1209242917


There is an optional metal CNC Retract System upgrade package, that I immediately ordered from Flying-Hobby.
TIP: Order the metal CNC upgrade pacakge!!!! Seriously, don't even think about trying set up the stock wood links with the glue method.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46395&d=1209242303


Install the wheels onto the CNC landing gear struts.
TIP: Install a 2mm nut and apply thread lock, to prevent wheel from becoming unscrewed.
Connect the ball links and rods.
NOTE: Observe orientation of the ball links before installing. You're going to need to remove the links later to adjust the rod lengths.

To install the CNC upgrades, you'll first need to loosen the locking collar set screw, then cut the carbon fiber rods that mount the rear retracts.
Slide the wood linkages off the carbon fiber rod , to remove the front retract system.
Remove the wheels from the wooden landing gear struts.

Attach one CNC linkage onto two of the carbon fiber rods, apply thread lock to the set screw, and tighten.
Note: The ball link arm faces the inside of the fuselage.
Apply thread lock to the ball link and attach to the linkage.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46396&d=1209242303


Install the rear retract rod. Slide the locking collar onto the retract rod.
Note: Do not tighten locking collar at this point.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46454&d=1209275527


Install wheel strut onto rear retract rod.
Note: Do not tighten wheel strut set screw at this point.
Push the retract rod into mounting hole, and tighten the set screw on the locking collar.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46397&d=1209242303


This is the correct set screw position for the rear wheel strut.
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46406&d=1209242706

This is the wrong set screw placement for the rear wheel strut. But because I broke the head off the set screw in the correct hole, I had to use this one.
TIP: Invest in a 2mm thread tap tool.
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46407&d=1209242706


The rear retract linkage must be oriented in the down position.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46399&d=1209242388


Attach the linkages and front wheel strut to the front retract carbon fiber rod.
Note: Only securely tighten the front wheel strut's set screw at this point. You will need to make adjustments to the rear retract linkages and servo linkage.
Connect retract rod from the rear retract linkage to the front retract linkage.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46398&d=1209242303


1. Position the rear and front wheels in the down and locked position.
2. On the front retract system, position the center servo linkage in a 45 degree angle, pointed to the rear of the fuselage, and tighten the set screw.
3. Adjust the length of each of the rear retract rods, and position the linkage to match the center servo linkage, at a 45 degree angle.
Note: The rear linkages must also be at a 45 degree angle, pointed to the rear of the fuselage.
4. Tighten the set screw on the front and each of the rear retract wheel struts.

Note: Don't worry if the mechanical setup isn't 100%, you will use ATV in your radio to fine tune the retract system later.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46400&d=1209242388

[BlackTitanium]

A HiTec HS65 or similar spec 60 degree proportional servo is optimal for this retract system.

Note: Do not use a 180 degree end to end servo, i.e HiTec HS75BB Retract Servo. You cannot adjust the travel limits on a Retract Servo, which may result in over torquing the retract linkages and breakage.

The HeliArtist retract system is not designed to travel 180 degrees.

TIP: Invest in a E Sky Servo Adjuster (http://www.hobby-lobby.com/hookup.htm) tool. It's a great device for testing and setup.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46408&d=1209242706


TIP: Use double sided tape to mount the servo for setup.

1. Remove the excess servo horns.
2. Install the ball link on the first hole of the servo horn, closet to the center screw.
3. Attach the center servo linkage to the servo ball link.
4. Position the retract linkage at 90 degree.
5. Center the servo horn, and position the servo onto the tray.
6. Drill holes into the tray, to mount the wood pieces.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46409&d=1209242849
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46403&d=1209242605


TIP: Use CA to hold the wood pieces in place during installation.
1. Position the wood pieces and tap with a 2mm drill bit.
2. Secure wood pieces with a 2mm self tap screw.
3. Secure the servo to the wood pieces with a 2mm self tap screw.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46404&d=1209242605


TIP: Use Shoe Goo to hold the servo wire in place, and out of the way of the mechanics.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46405&d=1209242706


TIP: Bind your receiver with the retracts in the up position. When you plug in the battery the wheels won't try to come down.

1. Attach the retract servo to your receiver.
2. Cycle the retracts and adjust the ATV as necessary.
Note: Make sure that all three wheels fully extend to the stop. This is what supports the weight of the Helicopter.
3. Make adjustments to linkages where necessary.

I had to adjust the center servo linkage to a 60 degree position on my final setup.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46410&d=1209242849


TIP: With a proportional servo, the retracts will snap into position when actuated.
Install the Night Fly Servo Slow Down Module (http://www.hobby-lobby.com/hookup.htm), in line between the receiver and servo, for a scale look slow retract motion.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46709&stc=1&d=1209453106

[BlackTitanium]

My method for mounting the frame to the fuselage will once again differ from manual's suggested method.
Using bass wood and 2-56 blind nuts, I constructed a rail system to mount the frame to the fuselage.

Remove the landing skids, tail support rods, canopy nuts, horizontal and vertical stabilizer from the heli frame.
Note: Loosen the two tail boom servo mount screws, so that the servo can be shifted into a position that will allow the frame to fit into the fuselage.

Disassemble the tail rotor gear box assembly.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46445&d=1209274746
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46446&d=1209274746
TIP: Use a tie wrap to hold the belt and servo rod.
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46447&d=1209274746


1. Cut two rails from bass wood.
2. Drill two holes in each rail, for mounting the rail to the frame.
3. Drill two holes in each rail, and install the 2-56 blind nuts onto the bass wood rail.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46417&d=1209243404


1. Cut out a paper template, and mark the hole locations for the fuselage mount holes.
2. Install the frame into the fuselage, and make a mark on the fuselage floor, to determine placement of the template.
3. Align template on fuselage floor, use 2.5mm drill bit to drill mounting holes in the fuselage floor.
TIP: Epoxy a 3mm washer around the fuselage mounting holes for reinforcement.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46418&d=1209243404
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46421&d=1209243538
TIP: Cut out a hole in the fuselage floor, to allow air flow for fan cooled motors.
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46423&d=1209243538


TIP: Align the frame with swash linkage cutouts on the top of the fuselage.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46458&d=1209277222


1. Epoxy a wood piece on each of the rear skids, to level the frame on the fuselage floor.
2. Taper the wood pieces on the rear skids, to maintain a level seating of the frame.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46419&d=1209243404
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46420&d=1209243404

[BlackTitanium]

1. Re-assemble the tail rotor gear box assembly.
2. Install the tail end cap, but do not install the screws.
3. Grasp the tail rotor blades and cycle the tail pitch slider.
4. Look for any interference from the fuselage.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46449&d=1209274847


Use a Dremel tool to correct any mechanical interference.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46450&d=1209274847
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46451&d=1209274847
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46452&d=1209274847


Install tail end cap, and secure with screws.
TIP: Apply Shoe Goo on screw threads to thread lock assembly.

Secure the fuselage to the frame, using 2-56 socket head screws and washers.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46422&d=1209243538


http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46457&d=1209276963

[BlackTitanium]

The Fusuno fuselage utilizes a plastic tray retract system for all three wheels.
The plastic tray is flexible and the front wheel has a tendency to bow up into the fuselage with the weight of the helicopter.
The retracts are operated by a single 180 degree end to end retract servo, i.e. the HiTec HS75BB Retract Servo.

The wheel struts are of an unattractive piano wire design. The wheels do not freely out of the box, but a with little mod work can be made to spin freely.

To change the battery, you must remove three screws to access the battery tray.
To connect the battery lead you'll have to remove the screws for access, or permanently remove one of the side windows to access the battery leads.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45498&d=1208494504


The HeliArtist fuselage utilizes a wood framed retract system for the front wheel. The wood frame is fairly rigid and supports the helicopter very well. The two rear wheels are connected the fuselage and each wheel is connected via a ball link rod to the front wheel.

The wheel struts are fairly attractive and scale looking. Although the stock wheel struts are made of wood, they can be upgraded to CNC metal.

To change the battery or connect the battery leads, you simply remove the magnetically attached nose section.

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46400&d=1209242388

[lrogers]

I second your recommendation about the landing gear! Mine should be here this week and I get to start over. I also decided (after the fact) to use a rail mounting system so that will be incorporated when I upgrade the landing gear.

[Foxden]

BlackTitanium,

Excellent, Excellent article

I've got the Heli Artist A109 Coast Guard fuse on order and can't wait to start the build after seeing your write up.

thanks for sharing

[nicvermaak]

Thanks for your input it certainly made my life easier!

Thanks

Nic Vermaak (South Africa)

[Wyldman]

This is most timely! I just received the black version from them 2 days ago. Thank you very much for sharing this invaluable information.

I do have one question, though. You mention:

There is an optional metal CNC Retract System upgrade package, that I immediately ordered from Flying-Hobby.
TIP: Order the metal CNC upgrade pacakge!!!! Seriously, don't even think about trying set up the stock wood links with the glue method

Part number? URL? I have looked all over and could not find this info for the 500 sized fuse. I totally agree, the wood parts for the retracts don't give me a warm fuzzy at all.

[BlackTitanium]

Part number? URL? I have looked all over and could not find this info for the 500 sized fuse. I totally agree, the wood parts for the retracts don't give me a warm fuzzy at all.

Currently, there is no CNC upgrade for the Airwolf 500.

[Wyldman]

Bummer. Thanks for looking for me, I thought I was going slightly mad (oh, wait, I do believe I'm already gone...)

[shooter_t11]

BT,
Do you, or anyone else for that matter, know of a way to put that tail rotor on the proper side?. I thought about just flipping it, then putting a twist in the belt, but I doubt that would work too well.

Thanks