New Pitch Tail Slider Install Problems

[Nyther]

Well, I couldn't leave well enough alone. I got "The Greaser" a while back from Readyheli, and went grease monkey crazy. I disassembled the metal tail pitch slider to grease the bearings, and cleaned the threads with 99% isopropyl alcohol. I installed the new pitch slider(the original got mauled up), and used loctite 242(blue) and let it sit overnight. In the morning I checked the pitch slider, and the loctite never cured.:dontknow Well, I cleaned the threads with alcohol again, and used the loctite 680(green bearing retaining). I let it sit overnight, and the next morning I had the same issue. The loctite was not cured. I did this two more times with the loctite 242 and the 680 and still no cure. The new pitch slider has some kind of Teflon coating that is not letting the loctite cure with the pitch slide and metal fork. I ended up using CA, which cured quickly. Is it safe to rely on CA on the metal tail pitch slider? What have you guys tried?

Thanks,
Ken

[Aberdeen]

The coating on the slider is hard anodizing.
It should have no effect with loctite.
However, are you using "rubbing" alcohol? that could be the culprit,.

[Nyther]

Thanks Anthony. What solvent do you recommend to help with this situation?

Thanks,
Ken

[Aberdeen]

I uses loctite for years in many applications, even with greasy, oily parts..
Many times I used brake cleaner for cars, it leaves a no residue on the part.
If your using rubbing alcohol, it contains lanolin, and MAYBE is causing a reaction with the loctite.

I would try, (Prep-sol used in auto body before a care is painted), lacquer thinner, or brake cleaner, and use some fine sandpaper to scuff the threads on the slider threads, just enough to break the anodizing up a bit.. this should help keep it "wet" with loctite, when you reassemble the slider, and hopefully it would cure.

My last resort would be to "pin" the slider to the aluminum pitch arm, using a auto center punch or manual one.

[Finless]

Anodizing in fact will effect locktite curing properly!

This is why Locktite makes a primer for anodized screws or parts.
This is LT7471 primer is what you want.

Bob

[Aberdeen]

Thanks Anthony. What solvent do you recommend to help with this situation?

Thanks,
Ken

I just remembered... Use Acetone. It speeds the cure on anaodized parts.
Funny forgot about acetone.. I use it by the gallons here..
becarefull with plastic and fibergalss parts though.. It melts plastic easy.

[Nyther]

Thanks, for the help guys I will give it a shot.:thumbup:

Thanks,
Ken

[Aberdeen]

Thanks, for the help guys I will give it a shot.:thumbup:

Thanks,
Ken

So you know the Loctite primer is Acetone.
So it alot easyier to get and alot cheaper (for more) locally like Home Depot).
I guess this is why I has much luck with loctite working with outboard marine engine parts that was hard anodized aluminum.

[Nyther]

Check my pitch slider by removing it, and it definitely was a good hold. I removed the old CA, used 100% acetone for the prep, and all is good. Thanks for the tips and hope that this helps my fellow helifreaks on a tail slider rebuild. Also, lightly tighten the pitch slider, or the bearings will feel notchy.

Thanks,
Ken