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View Full Version : First rebuild after a crash and it's my head that spins!


drewbius
05-07-2008, 05:31 AM
I have installed all of my new parts and now face another dillema. From all of the reading I have done I have my servo's plugged in the the correct spots on the reciever, yet the controls are wrong.
Here is what I have.
Front Servo is plugged into ELEV
Top Rear Servo is plugged into AUX1
Bottom Rear Servo is plugged into AILE
Rudder Servo is plugged into the Gyro
Gyro (3 wires) is plugged into RUDD
Gyro (1 wire) is plugged into GEAR

Right Hand Stick -Up and Down - throttle works fine and swash moves in the right direction staying level.
***Right Hand Stick - Left and Right - tilts the swash left and right ***
Left Hand Stick - Up and Down - tilts swash forward and back
***Left Hand Stick - Left and Right - moves rudder left and right!***
I cannot figure what is wrong here!
Help would be appreciated fella's - I just want to start flying!

sokal
05-07-2008, 06:03 AM
I have installed all of my new parts and now face another dillema. From all of the reading I have done I have my servo's plugged in the the correct spots on the reciever, yet the controls are wrong.
Here is what I have.
Front Servo is plugged into ELEV
Top Rear Servo is plugged into AUX1
Bottom Rear Servo is plugged into AILE
Rudder Servo is plugged into the Gyro
Gyro (3 wires) is plugged into RUDD
Gyro (1 wire) is plugged into GEAR

Right Hand Stick -Up and Down - throttle works fine and swash moves in the right direction staying level.
***Right Hand Stick - Left and Right - tilts the swash left and right ***
Left Hand Stick - Up and Down - tilts swash forward and back
***Left Hand Stick - Left and Right - moves rudder left and right!***
I cannot figure what is wrong here!
Help would be appreciated fella's - I just want to start flying!
i belive you have the EU version wich all they did was switch around the plugs
un less you want the trottle and the rudder on the left and the cyclic on the right

from left to right on RX
batt
throttle
elev (fwd)
aile (left)
rudd
gyro (single wire on top)
pitch or aux (right)

SeaComms
05-07-2008, 06:08 AM
To me I cant see what the issue is? What you are describing is Mode 1, which is the standard in Australia. Not to say its right or wrong, and there are more and more starting to use Mode 2, which has the throttle and rudder swapped. If I didnt already have a long history with Mode 1 I would prob recommend Mode 2 for helis anyway.

Which side is your throttle stick on?

drewbius
05-07-2008, 06:12 AM
I believe that is what I want Mr Sokal.
Throttle and rudder on the right and cyclic on the left ( I am from DownUnder!).
At the moment I have looking at the Rx(Antennae at the top) from L to R:
Batt, Thro, Aile, Elev, Rudd, Gear, Aux1

What servo goes to which connection to make it all work with the cyclic on the left?

SeaComms
05-07-2008, 07:00 AM
If I am not mistaken, what you are looking for is elevator and aileron on the left, and throttle/rudder on the right? If so, this is neither mode one nor mode 2, and I doubt you would be able to achieve it as the mixing is done in the transmitter based on the channels - ie, cyclic control is a mixture of elevator, aileron and Aux 1 channels.

Normally for Mode 1, Throttle and aileron on the right, and elevator and rudder on the left.

So basically, what you have now is actually correct.

This is why Mode 2 is 'preferred' for helis, as the elevator and aileron are on the same stick, more like the real thing.


Here is an excerpt I found on this particular issue, copied from http://www.rc-airplane-world.com/rc-helicopter-transmitter-modes.html.


RC helicopter transmitter modes

The set-ups for rc helicopter transmitter modes follow the ones for rc airplanes (http://www.rc-airplane-world.com/rc-transmitter-modes.html) in terms of pitch, roll and throttle.
Helicopter transmitters differ from airplane transmitters in that a few extra channels are usually required, with the broad exception of fixed pitch helis.
These channels are controlled by the switches and/or programmable settings of the transmitter.
As with rc airplanes, only modes 1 and 2 are commonly used by the majority of radio control helicopter pilots.

The four different modes are illustrated below:

Mode 1

http://www.rc-airplane-world.com/image-files/rc-helicopter-transmitter-mode-1.gif
Stick controls are:
left stick operates fore/aft cyclic & left/right yaw, right stick operates throttle/collective & left/right cyclic.

Mode 2

http://www.rc-airplane-world.com/image-files/rc-helicopter-transmitter-mode-2.gif
Stick controls are:
left stick operates throttle/collective & left/right yaw, right stick operates fore/aft cyclic & left/right cyclic.

Mode 3

http://www.rc-airplane-world.com/image-files/rc-helicopter-transmitter-mode-3.gif
Stick controls are:
left stick operates fore/aft cyclic & left/right cyclic, right stick operates throttle/collective & left/right yaw.

Mode 4

http://www.rc-airplane-world.com/image-files/rc-helicopter-transmitter-mode-4.gif
Stick controls are:
left stick operates throttle/collective & left/right cyclic, right stick operates fore/aft cyclic & left/right yaw.
As you can see, mode 3 is the opposite to mode 2 and mode 4 is the opposite to mode 1, giving complete right handed/left handed user options.

Pros and cons of each

No mode is better than another one, but there are pros and cons to each setup.

Take mode 1 for example; the two primary pitch controls are on separate sticks. This is good because if you move each control independently then there is no chance of you inadvertently changing one while moving the other.
But mode 2 has both these primary controls on the same stick, which replicates the cyclic stick of a real helicopter making the control of your model more true to life.
It is possible to buy an rc transmitter and change the mode yourself, but this involves dismantling the case and changing the position of the small springs connected to the gimbals, in order to determine the throttle stick.
We don't recommend you try this unless you are competent with this kind of delicate work, and dismantling a newly purchased transmitter would almost certainly invalidate the manufacturer guarantee.