Explaing to me about swash plates?

[-=maxed=-]

I have a raptor 50 now but it was a 30 and it still has the standard swash plate..

If i push the right stick into each corner it slows the head down because it binds but if i use EPA's until it stops binding then the response it really bad!! I cant win?

Do i need to upgrade the swash?

Thanks

[vandelescrow]

Have you lubed the main shaft? try some 3in1 oil.

On my 50's I have not had the problem you described but on my 90, in the corners it binds so I got a cyclic ring for my transmiter. It is baskicly a plastic ring you slide over the right stick with a round hole in the center, It allows full deflection of the stick up, down, left and right but wont let you beary the stick in the corners.

[-=maxed=-]

Yeah its lubed but i think its more than that... You can here the engine really struggling if i use the right stick hard in any direction.. OS 50 hyper

[archiebald]

Have you tried measuring the degrees of cyclic you are getting for pitch and roll?

How much?

[-=maxed=-]

How do i do this?

Thanks

[vandelescrow]

check this article out http://rchelimag.com/pages/howto.php?howto=22&page=1

[hornet dave]

You need a cyclic ring for your transmitter and then adjust the cyclic throws through endpoints or dual rates or however you like so that there is no swashplate binding when you put the cyclic stick in the corner. That's all the deflection you can get out of the swashplate. I don't see any reason to measure it, just max it out because the raptor 30/50 rotor head won't give you an excess of cyclic pitch in the first place. If you then want more response from the heli, you need to address that through lighter main blades, different paddles, higher headspeed, or modifying your rotor head to achieve more cyclic deflection at the rotor blades. However, most of these things will cause other flying characteristics to suffer, so it's all a trade off of sorts.

Oh, one more thing, really fast flips or rolls will cause the motor to bog, that's just physics. It takes power to change all that gyroscopic stability in the rotor blades. Heavier blades and high headspeeds will sap more power from the motor than lighter blades or lower headspeeds. A governor or cyclic to throttle mixing helps to a certain degree.

[alexander]

You can set the raptor up from wild to mild. You can have two flight modes and have your cake and eat it too. With a good setup other things do not have to suffer. Basically all you need be concerned with are engine power/rpm plus damping, mixers and paddles for control parts along with a metal head block if you beat the snot out of the helicopter. You can have all this with no cyclic/collective corner binding if you like. The machine can be made more agile than a 600N if that is what you want plus it will fly more accurately.

The swashplate is manufactured for a helicopter design of about 11/11 collective and about 6.5/6.5 cyclic, however by changing the mixers you can have 15/15 collective with a similar percentage increase in cyclic. Setting up the flybar will deal with cyclic power using stock mixers but collective pop is limited in the stock mixers.

http://runryder.com/helicopter/t413916p1/

Stephen