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th3tick
05-18-2008, 01:57 PM
So this morning, I grabbed my poor lonely T-Rex 500, which has been sitting idle for three months and the Logo 600, two packs each, and went to the park...

I flew the T-Rex first, and had some nice, stable, comfortable flights. Then I pulled out the Logo, and oh my the difference! I felt like I had gone from sedate and stately to tearing up the sky!

Only issue was my Tango felt hot (again forgot temp gun) after the first flight, and after ten minutes cooling, still came back pretty hot after the second, with a notable loss in efficiency for flying about the same both times.

At least the T-Rex cleared the cobwebs from my brain...

Anyone want to buy a slightly used T-Rex 500? ;)

John

LITHIUMSTATIC
05-18-2008, 02:24 PM
Are you using any type of spray silicone on your pinion?

th3tick
05-18-2008, 02:40 PM
No silicone. Pinion mesh still seems quite good. A couple drops probably couldn't hurt there, though.

I was feeling the top of the motor can, away from the pinion.

John

LITHIUMSTATIC
05-18-2008, 02:47 PM
I was just thinking that heat could travel up the center shaft and into the motor. I use a silicone spray on the pinion and it really cuts down on pinion temps. I don't have a temp gun to give accurate numbers, but by feel it's much cooler. Worth a try.....

helicraze
05-20-2008, 09:40 PM
I found the main gear is never 100%, so i spinned it around and tightened it with no back lash were it felt tighter, as i spin around some spots on the main gear have a tiny amount of free play.

th3tick
05-20-2008, 10:13 PM
Yeah, same here. This pairing seems to have a more pronounced "out of round" sound to it than the others I've played with from Mikado, but it definitely has one spot no backlash, and 2/3 of it has a tiny amount.

What's funny is this main gear and same pinion with the 1912 I had in it originally didn't, possibly leaving the motor/shaft as a tiny bit out of concentric?

John

Wbird
05-20-2008, 11:18 PM
John, What setting are you running with the governor, a long shot but maybe it needs to be running a bit higher on the governor. Another thing, don't know how the Jazz ESC's work entirely but I read in the instructions or online somewhere that after programming the governor mode you have to spool it up to a flat throttle curve and leave it a 0 pitch for a few seconds for it to calibrate the timing. When I switched to the Tango I reprogrammed it for heli governor mode and did the spool up again just in case it mattered.

Again, might be nothing to it but may be worth a shot. I am running 13 tooth on a 45-08 and it gets warm but definitely not hot. The 45-07 should be even better with the same pinion. I think after working it a bit a few times I had the temp up to 135 degrees. My rex with the same kind of workout would have been near 200. Do you use a data logger. What kind of current are you pulling? Should be around 20 amps in a hover and spikes on hard climouts should not be over 80 amps. With the 45-07 it should be even lower than that.

th3tick
05-21-2008, 08:59 AM
I have it on 60/60/70 for Normal/ST1/ST2, which is giving me headspeed of about 2000/2100.

I typically toss it to mid stick to spool up, then go from there. I've been playing a bit with Shawn's method - Th Hold/mid stick/ST1, the flick off the Th Hold, but otherwise, am getting fairly similar results in headspeed.

I do have a data logger, and here are the graphs from those two flights. Nothing much amperage-wise, at all.

Thanks!
John

Wbird
05-22-2008, 12:55 AM
Interesting, with those current draws it should be fairly cold.

I am suprised at your headspeed I expected it would be lower on a 45-07.

With my 45-08 on 13 tooth I get 2200 at 70% 2300 at 75% Only thing I can think of is to increase your throttle and headspeed. Try 75 or 80% on your throtte. A bit higher headspeed will make your heli more stable and the logo can definitely handle it. ESC's run better closer to full throttle and motors work the same way. Lower voltage causes higher current. (motor side of the ESC). If you keep it below 80% you should still have enough headroom for the governor to work properly.

Your current draw on the logger will be higher from the battery but your motor should run cooler.

I may be wrong on this as I am not very familiar with the Kontronic technology, I do like the way it works though and I assume that although it isn't as sensitive to part throttle it still will be affected.

BTW contrary to popular belief I run 2200 on the head for AP. Most dial it down for smoother response, I prefer to dial in expo and keep the machine crisp and on track.

My $0.02 worth. Try anything once right?