doering1
05-18-2008, 03:58 PM
I attempted this same topic on RC groups but was prevented from having the topic pinned. Hence, it will soon be lost several pages deep. There are numerous modifications that help the novice as well as the seasoned pilot and it is my desire to have these consolidated at one site. Could I have this topic as a sticky with editing privileges? Who do I get in touch with?
Thanks!
ChuckTSeeker
05-18-2008, 07:28 PM
No need we already have one "Stickied" right here in the 400 section
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=66100
just add any tips you might have to this thread ;)
doering1
05-19-2008, 10:12 AM
Hi,
I appreciate the info that is already posted. I am referring to specific modifications such as the info I have copied below. The idea is to keep it separate and organized into subsections such as canopies, cooling, tail mods etc. The intend is not to have it lost with more general info such as swash leveling, blade repairs, general setup etc.
From Wolfpackin
Canopy mounting rod and tail servo linkage
I did these before my first flight with the B400.
1. Canopy Mounting Rod Mod.
a)Round the ends of the mounting rod with sandpaper or a file.
b)Use two small pieces of air tubing, like the tubing that comes with the o-ring dampeners, on each side of the rod to hold it in place. Small pieces will not interfere with servo arms.
c)Wipe down grommets with silicone.
These three steps make installation and removal of the canopy much easier.
2. Tail Servo Linkage Ball
Move the linkage ball in, towards the center, one hole on the servo arm.
This increases servo resolution and decreases binding at the end points by decreasing the slider travel. It also enables you to use a higher gyro gain in most cases.
From Wolfpackin
Canopy Venting
I was having high heat at the ESC even after eliminating linkage binding and loosening the belt.
Part of my problem is that I live at high altitude where heat dissipation is less efficient.
So, if you are having high ESC temps and all other heat contributors have been eliminated, try venting your canopy.
From JustinMoore12
ESC mounting location
It should be said that mounting the esc on the side of the frame will give the same effect as venting the canopy.
From Stephen Shioi
Cooling
I would just go with a TRex lid. Much better looking IMHO. I trimmed the top side to clear the links and opened up all cooling slots. Zero heating problems and a better lookin heli for me. I always thought that the fit of the stock canopy was just too tight making the install a pain in the a$$. I also installed a HRPoly lipo alarm.
From Steve Klyce
Gyro, idler pulley and charger cooling mods
I took the 1/8 in foam padding and put it on all sides and the top of that G110 gyro to make it less sensitive to temp changes. At least now I can take my heli out of my house and fly it without having to constantly adjust my tail trim for the first packs worth of flight to compensate for the internal temp. equalizing in the gyro. It will get me by until I get a 401gyro for it!!
I also had a problem with the tail idler pulley wearing away on one side because it was rubbing against the plastic so I put a couple of very small washers on each side of the pulley bearing to center the pulley it so it won't rub on the plastic tail housing when in operation.
I also had to modify the charger because it runs to hot in my opinion due to the lack of air intake holes for cooling. The fan runs but cannot pull any air through the charger to cool the electronic components. I fixed this by reaming out the indicator led holes in the front housing to about 1/4 in and also drilling about ten 1/8in holes in the front housing in the areas where the heat generating components are. Now when I charge the battery I don't smell that "hot electronics smell" and also the case is now cool to the touch and the fan is actually moving air to cool the charger instead of sitting there doing nothing but cavitating. Hope this helps!
From LockMD
30 second feather shaft replacement tip
Most of you probably already figured out to do as I did, use a allen or carbon rod to follow it through so you dont drop anything, yes?
Problem with that method, its hit or miss. Sometimes your follower will slip and you still loose stuff and have to do it the hard way anyhow.
So here is the tip: I have a spare flybar -- the threads on the flybar match the feather shaft. Use the flybar as a follower and you will NEVER slip off again!
(http://rapidshare.com/files/115423090/DX6i_mode_change.pdf)