View Full Version : Tail Drive Gear Replacement Aurora Vs. 700
huskynox
05-19-2008, 11:32 AM
In looking at the 2 designs for the Tail Drive Gear, it looks as if the 700 will be easier to replace. I emphasize "looks" because I have no experience with either heli. BUT, the 700 design looks pretty much identical to the Align 500 and 600 - whereas you can just yank the entire drive unit out the back of the heli. The Aurora looks a bit more complex, like you may have to pull an entire frame half off....?
I'm curious because I've broken tail drive gears with slight tail rotor strikes on my Trex 600. I like the Align design because you can pull the drive case out so easily.... Any experience with the Aurora would be appreciated. :thumbup:
Trex 700
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48520&stc=1&d=1211211060
Aurora
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48521&stc=1&d=1211211060
Gscott
05-19-2008, 11:42 AM
The Align design is crap in my opinion. The gears that strip on a 600 are always the front gear which requires removing the entire tail assembly and gyro if you have it tail mounted. If you have never changed the gears on a 600 then you are in for a treat. A definate pain in the a$$. Most other TT setups I have seen like the Raptor 90 it is the rear gears that strip first making it a 5 minute fix. Hopefully this is the case with the Aurora as well.
huskynox
05-19-2008, 01:35 PM
The Align design is crap in my opinion. The gears that strip on a 600 are always the front gear which requires removing the entire tail assembly and gyro if you have it tail mounted. If you have never changed the gears on a 600 then you are in for a treat. A definate pain in the a$$. Most other TT setups I have seen like the Raptor 90 it is the rear gears that strip first making it a 5 minute fix. Hopefully this is the case with the Aurora as well.
I agree, on a 600E it sucks because the Gyro is usually mounted there, plus most of us have servo wires running thru there, BUT on the 600N (we are talking Nitro) it's no big deal because the gyro, receiver, etc are all up front, same as the 700.
I do agree that the front gears stripping so easily does SUCK too!!!
Now, back to the original question. Any Aurora guys care to comment how easily these gears can be replaced...? Does a frame half need to be removed....?
ClayK
05-19-2008, 04:05 PM
No, frame half wouldn't need to be removed in either design. Both designs require removal of the boom (duh) and both designs require the removal of the boom block screws that attach it the block to the frames. Past that, it's the same. The question should really be, will the Aurora gears strip out with the frequency that the 600's do?
torkboy
05-19-2008, 04:06 PM
Hey Husky,
The gears are very easy to repace.
For the front ones, take your boom out, and unscrew the 8 or 16 screws(depends if you strip one or both gears), of the bearing blocks, take out the tank and push down on the whole assembly till it is out. With the gears going vertically, you will either need to remove the main gear, in order to allow for the gears to move away from the horizontal bevel gear, or take out the horizontal bevel gear, and the vertical gears as well. But if you just strip the horizontal ones, then you can just unscrew the 8 screws, and pull the assembly out from the back. Just remember to gather your shims, and check the lash after you replace them, and put even amounts of shims on each gear.
For the rear ones, remove the metal tail unit, and its pretty much self explanitory from there once you build the assembly.
huskynox
05-19-2008, 04:31 PM
Thanks Torkboy
So, to pull the vertical gear assembly I'd have to pull the head/mainshaft and the tank, correct? I'm assuming just the Jesus bolt for the head/mainshaft? How easy does the tank come in and out? Is it just a friction fit?
It all looks much beefier then the 700. How easy do the gears strip on the Aurora? Do the front or rear usually go with a slight tail rotor strike?
Thanks
Laurens
05-19-2008, 05:25 PM
Nobody has said anything about that they both copied the R90's tail design. I love it, never had a pin come out (knock on wood). Its really easy to setup.
torkboy
05-19-2008, 06:12 PM
Thanks Torkboy
So, to pull the vertical gear assembly I'd have to pull the head/mainshaft and the tank, correct? I'm assuming just the Jesus bolt for the head/mainshaft? How easy does the tank come in and out? Is it just a friction fit?
It all looks much beefier then the 700. How easy do the gears strip on the Aurora? Do the front or rear usually go with a slight tail rotor strike?
Thanks
You can either take out the main gear or the horizontal assembly. The main gear has a pin with a set screw for the bolt. The tank takes approx. 2 seconds to remove.
huskynox
05-19-2008, 08:15 PM
I see... looks like it would be easiest to just pull the 2 drives out if you waste the vertical gears. 16 bolts! That thing is beefy! I like :thumbup:
Thanks Torkboy!
spdntckt
05-28-2008, 12:23 AM
Somewhat relevant to this thread - but on the Aurora how do you actually replace the main shaft? during the build they show the set screw which holds the jesus pin going in through the bottom.. but to remove that on a built heli it would appear to be a royal pain.. unless i am missing something..
Somewhat relevant to this thread - but on the Aurora how do you actually replace the main shaft? during the build they show the set screw which holds the jesus pin going in through the bottom.. but to remove that on a built heli it would appear to be a royal pain.. unless i am missing something..
Like Jason said above, you remove the tank (which takes 2 seconds) loosen the set screw which takes 30 seconds.
You slide the pin out.
From there on, it is just like any other helicopter.
torkboy
05-28-2008, 10:14 AM
Correct Dood, and using a ball ended L shaped alan wrench works wonders for this as well. Its not a pain, once you have done it a couple times ;).
Machinegun21
05-28-2008, 07:16 PM
Removing that pin is not a pain at all ;)