What Motor,ESC & battery?

[dazzla777]

Guys,

can someone help me out with understanding the different specs/configurationz between motors, jotor pinion teeth, escs and batteries.

I got my 200 from flying-hobby and went for the 3d package with the dx7 2.4ghz trannie with the castle creation 25 amp esc, and the z power 3300 motor with 3 cell battery (I did the typical niave thing by going for the most expensive set up thinking it would probably be the best whilst not knowing what I was buying - have i done the wrong thing???)!!!.

Whats the difference between these items and going for the standard set up.

I also have one of the Lama v4 helis so tried the esky 7.4 800mah 2 cell battery.

I'm reasonably confident with doing circuits with this heli and so have started becoming curious to learing and pulling of some 3d.

I have experiemented using different batteries and recently noticed how rediculous the difference is in power when using a 3 cell battery (11.1v 20c 900mah), compared to a 2 cell (7.4 10c 800mah).

But my main question is, because I went for the upgrade package with different esc and motor, should I only be using the 3 cell battery (as this is what it came with and was wondering if the set up i went for is specific for this battery).

I have experimeneted trying different things and found the 2 cell doesnt have anywhere near the amount of power compared to using the 3 cell (typically when applying hard throttle to achive lift).

using a 2 cell seems to slow the motor with hard throttle and feels like it couldnt cope with 3d moves such as flips and rolls etc, do you think this sounds about right?

Your thoughts and advice would be much appreciated.

Are any of you using the same set up as me, has anyone found 2 cell to be an issue with 3d flying

Regards

Darren

[J-Heli]

That's kind of weird. You would've thought that in the 3D package they would've given you the z-power motor with the most kV right? Which is the one with about 5000kV, so why did they give you a motor with less kV than the stock motor (3000 kV and 4800kV respectively). But I remember reading about that motor and it says that it's designed for 3s battery so that's what I'd use, and if you get more power that way, then that's even better. What kind of runtime are you getting?

[Gr4yb3ard]

Guys,

There seems to be a gap here.

From my experience, the 3s is the way to go, pending an accurate check on heat, longevity etc., and I'm running a stock pinion!

Maybe when I get inverted, things will be different, so take this with the grain of salt...

I'm running E-Flight 2s and E-Flight 3s, both will run well and manuever. The 2s gets about 4.5min of hover. The 3s will easily do 6, but both it and the ESC are hot (no real idea, but I'd guess 120d F).

Heli-Cuzz, you had some 3s problems before, was it the 3s? or the ESC? Where are you at now?

Gr4yb3ard
"...add lightness and simplicate!... - Bob Evans..."

[J-Heli]

I really like running 3s. I haven't had any problem with the ESC, battery, or motor. I just had a blade tracking problem. I thinking about trying a couple different power systems to try and fit my flying style. The stock motor bogs semi-easily. The 3s almost altogether eliminates that problem, but I'd still like to try some different things.

[mrivers]

That's kind of weird. You would've thought that in the 3D package they would've given you the z-power motor with the most kV right? Which is the one with about 5000kV, so why did they give you a motor with less kV than the stock motor (3000 kV and 4800kV respectively). But I remember reading about that motor and it says that it's designed for 3s battery so that's what I'd use, and if you get more power that way, then that's even better. What kind of runtime are you getting?

The 3300kV motor on 3S should give similar head speeed as 4800kV motor on 2S (given same pinion).

[Gr4yb3ard]

Dazzla777,

From my limited experience, I think you are on a good course. From the description of your flying, I think you're in for a treat once you get this thing going.

The GAUI-200 <of course> is a choice pick. The listed motor, and esc are from good manufacturers.

I can't remember the package, but Flying-Hobby has a pretty good rep, I'd doubt you'd get garbage. I sorta think you got Bluebird servos, right? Not a bad choice from what I hear.

What's your gyro?

I think you may want to see about a smaller pinion, but heck, I'm running 3s with a stock 200 and pinion, gets hot in the batt and esc, but I'm love'in it so far. I saw smaller pinions a while back, honestly, have not looked to hard as yet, stock is working fine with the 3s..

The relationship is that the smaller pinion allows you to slow the headspead whilst taking advantage of the higher voltage to the motor. More power, less bog.

I don't know what a high headspead is with these things. I've heard 3100 to 4000! is good, but with wood blades, it's nice we've got a small disk....

I'm actually sort of amazed how well everything is working with this heli. The top tips seem to be: locktite the bejeezus out of the lower frame (squirrely nut and bolt arrangement) fasteners, and ca the nuts to the bottom frame part, but don't overtighten, you'll bust the side frames. the stock plastic blades work pretty well vs woodies. No carbon blades in sight yet, but the woodies work just as well, MHO. Get a <good> gyro, Logictec 2100 & Spartan are tops. AR6100 (I'm going to try the nano soon!) Keep it light. Blade grip screws, seesaws, and thier screws are a usual crash problem (search the site for p/n's). All the self-tapping screws will strip eventually, spray screws with wd-40 & wipe down, then pack hole and screw with JB-weld and re-assemble. The tail can wear out around the bearings (Loctite!). We've heard of tail assemblies "blowing up", a few notables, but I've not have any problems yet, and there is a cnc upgrade to replace, though a bit heavier. The stock tail pushrod vibrates badly, there is a new part that includes a mid-boom support, well worth the price for the support part alone at $3 or so. She <will> be tail heavy, look at the plans for adding a slanted batt mount if you want >800ma batts. I'm pushing my 800's into the canopy, Align strap on the battery tray on the last 1/3 of the batt works okay. Go get the Align-style canopy mount pins, the stupid screw&pin stuff will eat canopy bushings forever. There is a lighter milk-jug canopy available at HeliHobby, cheap, light and paintable. Make sure both your grips are tight, but rotate smoothly. Don't buy the "dampers" that look like canopy grommets!. Fuel tubing 50X2.5 is working real well for dampers. There are shims, too, but I have'nt found out where to get them. The stock woodie blades/blade grips will not fold back for transport like they should, I have'nt figured this one out yet, may need dremel time.... The spindles and mainshaft are tougher than on most heli's (surprise!). You *can* fly it indoors like a CX, but it's not a toy, be careful, I've lost a really expensive lampshade already. We have an one-way on the shaft, but this thing will <*not*> auto, as the tail rotor is not spun. Oh, and Chicks Dig It!!!!

...whew..., I almost passed out...l

Gr4yb3ard
"...now, after I've been good for almost three minutes, all of you must email everyone on your contact list on how wonderfull the GAUI-200 is, and post a bunch of stuff to popularize the 200 subforum on Heli-Freak....

... or an evil pirate will visit your house in the dead of night, and send 15 or so 30lb cannon rounds into your living room... ;-)"