Finally got my Hawk 30 pro, need some help!

[addy005]

So I finally received my hawk 30!

Some questions are popping up.... I got the futaba 7CHP PCM controller. It came with 4 S3151 servos, and I have the 401 gyro with a h625MG servo. Which servos do I use for what?

[odieser]

Use the 3151's for the cyclic control and throttle and the hs625MG servo for the gyro as is the way the kit is set up from heli-world.

[addy005]

ok sweet. As I am mounting these up. As long as I follow the directions should I be okay? In the pictures some of them have different arms... round, trapezoid, star, 4 way, 8 way.... nothing in directions to change these.

[odieser]

Make sure you read the gyro manual It says when using a not digital servo for tail you must turn the DS switch to OFF position. The HS625MG servo is a non digital.
Mark

[odieser]

Did your servos come with a bag of diffeent arms? The different arms are to get your linkages set up with the proper throw and the setup you can get to a 90 degree position of the bellcranks to the swashplate without using any trims in your radio. All of the Fineless builds shows this in some respect on any of his builds. All the principles in the builds are the same. Hope you watched some to see the basics.
Mark

[addy005]

So the 625MG is NOT digital? It doesnt say on the box it came in. But the s3151 are digital. I am also putting all the rubber and metal pieces in between the holes that line up as the directions say. How tight do i need to make it? So they dont move at all? Yep I am watching the CCPM videos as we speak.

[odieser]

Yes the 3151's are digital they are just not fast enough for the tail. Yes the brass spacers and the rubber spacers around them are so the servos can be mounted firmly yet still give some vibration dampening for the servos from the frame. Tight yet not over tight and use loctite in the screws and nuts. If the nuts are plastic try to replace with metal or use a little CA (glue) in the nut.
Mark

[addy005]

Okay, Also finless is using the same radio i have in his video! YAY!!! But, as soon as I turn my radio ON it starts beeping repeatedly. I think the battery might be low? So I'm charging in for a little bit. Now the video is completely losing me on the resetting and new model part. I guess I should read up a bit after I mount my servos.

[odieser]

You should charge you radio initially for at least 12 to 24 hours to get a full initial charge or as stated in your manual. That is how my radio was.
I must go to bed now as work is at 4AM I will check back in the evening. good luck.
Mark

[addy005]

Hey, thanks again for your support! Man I am so excited! Dont forget to check back :YeaBaby: Have fun at work!

Cheers!:cheers

[addy005]

Okay. I got all of my servos mounted "correctly". Just need to test them out, which I will do tomorrow. I went ahead and mounted my "on and off switch". Can not figure out how to mount the gyro.... Guess I'll find out tomorrow haha. Thanks Odieser!:Bang

[Dubya_o]

The Hawk pro is not an eCCPM heli so don't let the Finless ccpm video's freak you out. Use the HELI SWH1 model type in your TX. I'll be on here tomorrow morning if you have any ?

[addy005]

Okay! LOL Thanks for the advice!!!! My heli servos were acting very wierd... How do I type that into my parameter area? I only have the options to choose h-1,h-2,hr3,hn3,h-3,he3, and acro.

[Dubya_o]

Hey addy, I'm using a 9C tx so there may be some difference in terminology. I'm pretty sure you should use H1 but if the 7C manual is as good as the 9C it should explain clearly how to match to your heli. You need to set it for independent servos for pitch, aileron and elevator.

There's a Century forum here too that may answer some of your ?s but I'm always glad to help.

[addy005]

When I put it on H1 mode, I have no option for the swash plate. Is that normal? Should I not worry about it?

[Dubya_o]

Yes, that's normal. There is no need for swash adjustments in the TX since you only have one servo for each function (ail, el, pitch) as opposed to 3 servos for each function in an eCCPM heli.

[odieser]

Addy how's it going so far
H1 is the swash setting you are looking for as Dubya has said.
Mark

[odieser]

Addy sorry for sending you to watch the ccpm videos first but you will need to know some of them.
Fineless made a half assed video which he did not finish fully never installed servos in the trex HDE ) but give the basic setup for the servos in relation to the swash that you will use in the Hawk Pro.
Here is the link it is short
http://video.helifreak.com/?subpath=finless/trexHDE&filename=hde_quicky_setup.wmv
Mark

[addy005]

yea I got my servos mounted and good to go. Tell me if this is right. Left stick up/down throttle and pitch up/down. Left/right rudder control.

Right stick up/down elevator. Left/right aileron.

Now. The engine is not starting. Its getting fuel and I have been tweaking the idle and mixture controls with no luck. Do I have to put something into my controller??

Also the fan on top of my engine block keeps coming loose and jamming. Forcing me to break down my helicopter and re tighten my fan.... How long does threadlock need to dry??

[odieser]

when you tightened the fan did you have the pistion locked down ( pistion lock tool )
The fan will not be getting tight enough and did you use red lock tight it is much stronger than blue stuff. This is shown in manual I assume you would have done this right just thought I would mention it.
Mark

[odieser]

As far as engine not staying lit may be many things. First check that the engine is not flooded ( take out the glow plug and stop fuel and run starter to clear fuel out) secondly may be a bad glow plug replace with fresh one. Thirdly reset all mixtures to stock or factory these can tend to get out if trying to much. always remember to move the mixture screws in a small increment fashion (1/16 - 1/8 turn max at a time)
As far as the TX settings are concerned make sure that when you have zero throttle (stick at zero) and your throttle trim next to it is at zero or lowest point the carb is completely closed on engine.( this is so the engine will shut off in these conditions) then check that at normal throttle trim (half way up) the carb is open the required amount I believe there should only be about a 1/8 th gap inside the carb looking down from the air filter entrance.(this may vary ) the min needed to get a idle.
Mark

[odieser]

check this link
http://www.helihobby.com/html/two_stroke_engine_tuning.html
Mark

[addy005]

Okay, when the stick is at the very bottom, the throttle is closed completely. When the stick is at half mass, it is only slightly openend. When the stick is at full, it is fully open. As far as the nobs go. It told me to do the AFR to 1.5 turns, and the idle nob was completely closed. Should I tighten it back up?

[odieser]

fuel air mixture screw should be first in flush with the carb housing then in one full turn or
.5mm . The needle valve should be turned slowly clockwise till it stops then counterclockwise 1.5 turns.
The throttle arm on the carb should be set at mid trim and lowest throttle on the TX with a slightly opened carb (enough for a idle) and with the throttle lowest and trim at lowest the carb must be closed.
As far as the throttle settings for the radio I am checking the Century and Motor posts for a concensus to what the curves should be.
Mark

[addy005]

"The throttle arm on the carb should be set at mid trim"

I understand everything but that part lol. Thanks for putting up a lot of effort for me! Seriously a great place for noobs like me. Going to check the AFR, IDLE, and CARB...