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View Full Version : G110 Setup: Two Schools of Thought?


Wolfpackin
05-23-2008, 01:27 PM
After following the threads regarding the G110 gyro setup that are ongoing now and those in the past I think I've become more confused than anything else.

It seems there are two different ideas regarding the mechanical setup of these gyros.
Typically with these types of piezo gyros like the Align or Telebee one starts out by setting up mechanically in rate mode.

Most people seem to agree on things like servo arm at 90 degrees to the pushrod and the linkage ball in the servo arm hole that gives the straightest shot and limits the slider from binding with the end stops.

Where there seems to be disagreement is how to adjust the tail linkage/pushrod length in conjunction with the position of the pitch slider on the tail rotor shaft.

1) Some say to simply adjust the pushrod length in rate mode so that the pitch slider is centered on the tail rotor shaft.

2) The other line of thinking is to adjust the length of the pushrod such that there is no yaw, during flight, while in rate mode.

IMO, there is not enough pitch on the tail blades when the slider is simply centered on the shaft, to counter the torque of the main blades, and this causes the gyro to work harder in order to hold the tail in HH mode.

I'd just like to get some additional thoughts and performance reports, by those of you that are using the stock G110 gyro, and which setup method you use.

Thanks.

mupchu
05-23-2008, 01:58 PM
I just centered mine (option 1), and it works fine for me. I am sure someone else can give more details on why they think this setup is better but, I just wanted to make sure there was equal throw in each direction, and that balance is probably why other people go with that option. The gyro does not work harder, but it does have to adjust initially, from that point onward there really should be no differance.

Given that you cannot specify endpoints on the stock gyro, I think option 1 is probably the beter option, as it should limit any stress on the servo because you are hitting the mechanical limit.

I'll also add, if you havn't done the chinese weight mod on the tail then this is a worthy modification. It's cheap and in the end the servo doesn't have to work so hard to make the changes the gyro asks.

CharlesC
05-23-2008, 08:18 PM
Chinese weight mod?.....I'm intrigued:o what is it?

mupchu
05-23-2008, 08:28 PM
Chinese weight mod?.....I'm intrigued:o what is it?

see this thread:

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=41309

CharlesC
05-23-2008, 09:07 PM
Ahh..thank you sir...

chuck4040
05-23-2008, 09:14 PM
How did you do the "Chinese mod". On the stock 400 plastic grips?

mupchu
05-23-2008, 10:00 PM
Personally I changed my grips out to the trex grips bacause I wanted to run KB Dream blades . . .

However All you need to do is get a longer screw and put locknuts on both sides and that will work. If you look further into that thread some people have examples of doing that because they did not want to drill their existing grips out.