Duralites on my extreme

[tnreefguy]

I would like to know what duralite package would work well on my fury extreme.

9252's on everything
601 9251
gv-1
Running 700 mains at about 1750 head-speed

I think my last crash was due maybe to a voltage drop on my 3000mah niMH batteries.

After the crash I checked the pack at 1 amp load and it was ok. At a 3.0amp load the pack dropped to 4.1 volts. Since the crash happened after doing some hard cyclic thats the only thing I can figure out.

[WillJames]

This would be a good starting point John.

#He-pkg2
Helicopter Package 60 - 90 size (7.2 oz*)

Ideal for 60 - 90 size helicopter using Digital servos.
1 - #7404 - 4000 mah 4 cell 7.4 volt pack**
1 - #21007 - Charger 1@7.4 volt output w/DC Cable only
1 - #54051 - Regulator - 7.5 amp, 5.1 volt
1 - #21908 - A/C Adapter 800 mah
1 - #43051 - Digital Load Tester .5, 1 & 1.5 amp load
** specify flat or square pack

You can run flat or square pack either one on the Extreme tray.

[tnreefguy]

thanks for the info. I looked at that package but was unsure if that would provide the amp draw without the voltage drop. I wish they would make an AC system for RC use.

[DavidH]

After the crash I checked the pack at 1 amp load and it was ok. At a 3.0amp load the pack dropped to 4.1 volts. Since the crash happened after doing some hard cyclic thats the only thing I can figure out.


From what your stating above. A battery problem is not what caused your crash. The system will not hardly see a 3 amp draw even with the servos working hard. From the figures you posted above about the condition of the battery. I would be looking elsewhere for the cause of the crash.

Some Duralite facts
http://www.duralitebatteries.com/helicopter.html

http://www.duralitebatteries.com/tech-ion.html#Voltage

Maximum Continuous Discharge

Each DURALITE PLUSTM pack will support a maximum safe constant draw of two times its rated capacity and support pulse loads of 5 times that capacity. For example, this allows for a 4 amp continuous load from an 2000mah pack and a pulse load of 10 amps. A 4000mah pack will support a 8 amp continuous load with a pulse load of 20 amps. Higher loads can be supported but this type of usage will reduce battery life and possibly cause damage to the pack over time.

No Memory

DURALITE PLUSTM batteries have no memory and do not need to be cycled. They require minimum maintenance allowing for hundreds of hours of worry free flying.



David

[tnreefguy]

thanks david. I have checked everything I know to check. bearings ok. No bad vibes. That was about the twentith flight. :arggg: Its been puzzling. The same thing happened on my freya when I was in birmingham this year too. It was a total rebuild so I imagine the problem in that instance was remedied during the put together.

[DavidH]

You have in your signature that your using a Futaba 9C.
Is this the PCM version?
It is is PCM and you have the failsafe set on the throttle. Then there is also a battery failsafe set on the receiver. If the voltage gets down to 3.6 volts, then battery fail safe will activate. What this does is it brings the throttle to idle. Once the throttle stick is cycled to low throttle, then control of the throttle and other controls are regained. It is a nice feature, I have had it activated a couple of times when I was using the 2700 mah nimh A cell sized 4.8 volt packs. It would always do it about the third flight when I was doing the double rolls. Once I figured out the 2700 A cells could not handle the current draw. I went back to Duralites and have never looked back.

So if you have the battery failsafe activated. That would be something that will help you out. If your using PCM you need to at the least have the throttle set to failsafe to idle. You also have to set the governor to turn off in failsafe mode.

Then if your having RF problems you will know it when the engine goes to idle.

David

[tnreefguy]

Yes I have the the 9c with the 149dp PCM reciever. The only thing that has been puzzling me is the setup for the failsafe on the govenor. I followed the instructions in the manual for it. I need to make me a device that will drop the voltage on the electronics so I can test to see if the failsafe on the GOV is working. How do you set the govenor to turn off in failsafe?

[WayneBrown]

I know of a few that set failsafe to throttle hold, and level the swash.
I guess it would turn off the governor?

[tnreefguy]

True the way my radio is setup the govenor only turns off three ways. By a seperate switch, The throttle curve is less than 20% at low stick, and throttle hold. Now all I have to do is fiqure out how to do that. The factory manual for the 9c sucks. I need to get the aftermarket book on the 9c.

[DavidH]

OK turning off the GV 1 in fail safe is simple. You have the GV! plugged into channel 7 and channel 8. One of those channels the On/off lead from the GV1 is plugged into it. It should be plugged into channel 7 (Aux 1).
Now if you have an on/off switch set up on the transmitter. Go into the Failsafe/Hold menu of the 9C. On the menu go to the Aux channel ( 7) that the on/off from the GV1 should be plugged into. Put the switch that controls the GV1 in the OFF position on the transmitter. Now activate the Failsafe on that Aux Channel.

Now turn off the transmitter and receiver. Turn on the receiver and then the transmitter. Now on the GV1 menu on the GV1 scroll thru the menu to you come to SWCD. Beside this it should say ON. Now click the switch on the transmitter that turns if off/on. The menu on the GV1 should change with the switch On and OFF.
Put the switch where the screen on the GV1 says ON. Now turn off the transmitter only. Within about 1 second the GV1 screen should say OFF, also the throttle should go to idle if you have failsafe set up on the throttle. You need to have the throttle stick all the way open to test this before turning off the transmitter.

The GV1 will not turn off in failsafe unless you set it up to turn off this way. The GV 1 has no idea what the throttle channel is doing when it goes into failsafe. So if the GV1 is not set to turn off in failsafe it just keeps on doing its job and keeps the throttle where needed.

David

[tnreefguy]

Thanks

[Clintstone]

Nice explination David........you saved me a bunch of typing and you were very clear....................... :noteworthy

[tnreefguy]

Well I found the problem. I took my switch to work along with servos ext to put new braiding on the leads and decided to check the switch one more time. I put my meter on the switch to test the continuity of it and nothing wiggled the wires on it and then it made then faded back out. After cursing it I threw it in the furnace and am now wanting to know what kind of switch you guys are using that can stand up to the vibration and oil residue. My freya uses the same switch but now I am going to change it out as well. Thanks for the input and for the help with the gv1 failsafe setups. This proves that helifreak rocks.

[Hotshot Charlie]

It is a shame that simple things can cause so much grief and torment, not to mention $$$$$.

Glad you found it John !!!

[WillJames]

Damn switch! Cheapest part on the heli, and fials the most. Glad you found it John! No knowing is the hardest thing.

I run the Duralite Failsafe Switched regulators with the HD Futaba switch. That way if the switch fails all I have to do is unplug the pack when I am done flying. I have had one fail and still use it for a few flights just plugging and unplugging the pack before I had a chance to send it back for repair. It ended up getting field repaired when I think it was Wayne Ellison or Clint that soldered on a HD Futaba switch and problem solved.

[Clintstone]

I have used the Futaba HD switch forever. Shannon D. was the first to put one on a Duralite pack and I recomended it to Duralite. I know witht the switched regulator the switch does not carry a load but the the Futaba switch just works.......Jack is always improving and this is just another example of how they do it. Strain relief is another improvement they have made on the regulators.......I have never had a problem but as an electrician I have always taken special care with my strain relief on my wires.

[WillJames]

Now that you mention it Clint I think it was you or Shannon or Wayne who fixed mine. Still going strong in my Ion-X to this day. :)

[tnreefguy]

what are you using to make a strain relief out of for the switch. I tried shrink wrap but it makes the wires to stiff to route.

[Robert Johns]

what are you using to make a strain relief out of for the switch. I tried shrink wrap but it makes the wires to stiff to route.


You won't need to shrink wrap "the wire" for strain relief - you need can shrink wrap the wire "to the regulator". The object is to relieve and stress on the connections where the wires are soldered into the regulator. Duralite is now shrink wrapping the wire to the casing of the regulator - this will add some "slack" from the solder connections to the shrink on the case.

Another way that we do it is to do some "creative" velcroing. The regulator is securly fastened to the frame using velcro to keep it from moving. Then, we use more velcro to strap the regulator wires down by allowing a little slack from the end of the regulator to the velcro - this is where the stress relief comes in. (Wayne Ellison and Clintstone have telling everyone about this technique and it works great.)

-robert