View Full Version : CURE for Main Grip Slop ! !
goldslinger
05-26-2008, 10:01 PM
I bet if most of You pull hard enough on the main grips, they will 'click' and extend about .7mm and be sloppy.
You have to pull kinda hard, so maybe if pushed in, they will stay in; but what about after a crash or higher head speeds? It might be enough to pull them out .
The spindle arm is too long in these helis. Shortening the grip screw won't help. (tried that first).
In My T-REX 450 hardware, I found some very thin steel washers. If used instead of the thicker brass one (the plain bearing washer, not the dampener step washer) that took away most of the grip play, an improvement, definately.
Or . . .
You need to file the spindle arm shorter until the slop JUST goes away.
Don't take off too much, or it will bind and the flybar becomes stiff. A teensy weensy amount of slop won't hurt anything,
Simply removing the little flat brass bushing will remove the slop, but is a needed part, as removing it binds the grips/flybar until You back off the grip screw; but You don't want to do that !
But You can kinda use the little flat brass washer as a guide to approximate how much spindle to remove. You will have to remove some of the dampener step brass washer the same amount; I just left it on and filed them both at the same time,
I removed the upper head portion and did the grinding out of the heli, of course.
It's pretty mild steel and files/grinds easily.
My little Gaui seems to be a much smoother bird after this mod; smoother and crisper, as the blades track better.
Vibration issues have dissapeared as well as I was able to turn the Gain on the Gyro back up to 74% without the wag I was getting before.
Hope this helps someone.
Gary
rotorhead58d
05-26-2008, 11:07 PM
in the kit, gaui makes mention of this. some are not too long. they give you stickers to put on the stepped washers to take up slop. i like your idea better. mine was like that since new.:lol:
look at post 31...
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=73110
goldslinger
05-26-2008, 11:30 PM
Oh, good.
So they are aware of the problem, then.
So I guess the stickers extend out the step washer so that it 'pre-clicks' the grips outwards and locks them in there.
hmmmmm. . . might have to try a washer BEHIND the step washer and see what happens.
Thanks!
Gary
Gr4yb3ard
05-27-2008, 01:14 AM
@$#%*(!
I played the same game with the CP Pro and then the Blade 400.
The 'Rex's were far superior to both, or all, in this regard, better fit, better dampers.
I'm sorta surprised it took us this long to find this out. I'm also a bit miffed that we're still facing some squirrelly manufacturing tolerances and parts misnomers <so called dampers (canopy grommets), and stickers (washers?)>.
Good call GoldSlinger! I cannot believe that I/We did not notice the "click" before this...
But it's a testiment to the little critter that it flies so well despite GAUI's numerous efforts to kill it.
D@mn straight the grips are moving out with centrifugal force, and I believe the dampers are not doing squat at that point.
To make up for that, filing the spindle or using shims as needed to take up slop in the spindle/grip bearing/damper system seems, is to me at least, the answer.
Regardless of what GAUI does, is doing, or has missed, with the spindle size, we can't trust them to put the system together, so <we> have to make the dampers work. Or maybe we'll hear from Mike soon... sigh...
Also, we need to find out if the parts we're getting are in spec. to be sure we're all on the same page. I'm out again, can't do this now, but I've got about three spindles that I can put a mike on and measure for. It will be interesting to see if this is a part revision, or just stupid manufacturing error. Remind me...
...I also promised to get back with the final weight on my 200, it's 203grams, all up, woodies, plastic tail blades, stock fiber canopy, but without any battery.
Gr4yb3ard
"...underpaid GAUI-200 Beta Tester, and part-time pirate..."
"...Yeah, I'm a bit p#ssed, but I don't see any T-Rex-200's getting reviews lately, do you???..."
psindrup
05-27-2008, 03:53 AM
Is it possible to file the spindle/feathering shaft while seated in the head?
(It is such a pain to take it out)
And would you use a (hand) file or a disc on a Dreml/Proxxon?
Peter
J-Heli
05-27-2008, 04:38 AM
I must be one of the lucky ones because my main grips don't have any slop. :dontknow
psindrup
05-27-2008, 05:31 AM
I must be one of the lucky ones because my main grips don't have any slop. :dontknow
Try to push you main blade grips hard "inwards" and then bull them hard "apart", and I will bet you a beer that you have the slop we all have. :smokin:
Peter
jimgrant
05-27-2008, 06:09 AM
No slop in mine , tried pushing, ..pulling,..... none..... I must have got a good one too.
J-Heli
05-27-2008, 06:32 AM
Try to push you main blade grips hard "inwards" and then bull them hard "apart", and I will bet you a beer that you have the slop we all have. :smokin:
Peter
I'll have a 22 oz. Fosters thanks ;). I tried pushing, pulling, etc. and there was no slop.
jimgrant
05-27-2008, 07:08 AM
http://www.gaui.com.tw/images/ps/203850.jpg
psindrup
05-27-2008, 08:31 AM
http://www.gaui.com.tw/images/ps/203850.jpg
Yep, but where do we get them?
Peter
jimgrant
05-27-2008, 09:00 AM
They come with the main rotor yoke, part no 203850 .
psindrup
05-27-2008, 09:05 AM
They come with the main rotor yoke, part no 203850 .
Thanks
Both my backs with main rotor yokes are part number 203849, and in these they are not included. :thumbdown:
Peter
goldslinger
05-27-2008, 11:25 AM
Maybe with the new spindles out, the problem has taken care of itself; but I would measure before installing.
I also notice that slop elimination in the tail grips rely on the friction of the two bearings in the grip; if they slip; the grip will move out even more dramatically than the main grips.
I had to C.A. the bearings back in place on one of mine.
Gary
goldslinger
05-27-2008, 11:27 AM
Is it possible to file the spindle/feathering shaft while seated in the head?
(It is such a pain to take it out)
And would you use a (hand) file or a disc on a Dreml/Proxxon?
Peter
Yea, just unhook the flybar linkages and You can wrap a towel around the whole head assy. to keep the filings out.
The upper head is only held by the jesus bolt and a couple of linkages, and it's easier to file with the head out.
Gr4yb3ard
05-27-2008, 06:59 PM
I won't argue with your fix GoldSlinger, probably better long term anyway.
But what we really need is to find washers (are these the so-called stickers?, I think so) to take up the slack.
Once you have a set of washers, you can tune the dampers to meet your needs...
Real slop: unmanageble heli, with most types, apparently not the 200 though, interesting
Slight slop: considered easier to fly by manufacturers, recommended for first-timers
No slop: considered easier to fly by experienced users
Tight: considered appropriate for experienced users and necessary for hard 3d
When using washers to adjust slop, the only other variable is the elasticity and durability of the damper. Actually, I think just about anything will work. Fuel tubing looks like the most common solution on many heli's, if you can cut the stuff accurately, you won't need the washers to adjust so much.
But, I'm sure before long we'll have a "head slop" gauge and a range of tools to deal with this. Just like car racing, golf, yada-yada, the more into it you get, the more complex it gets.
I'm waiting for Mike Youngblood to get back to us on all of this damper stuff. THAT should be an educational post, at this point, I think...
Gr4yb3ard
goldslinger
05-27-2008, 07:37 PM
Gr4y,
The T-REX little steel washers are very thin and the right size inside I think.
One could stack until the grip tension is where they would want it. Probably wouldn't take more than a couple.
I will play with it. Sounds like it needs to go BEHIND the step washer.
Problem is, I already ground the spindle down; yea, I have just a tiny click now; might try one washer and see if it isn't too tight and damage the dampeners.
Gary
Gr4yb3ard
05-27-2008, 08:03 PM
That would be nice if a stock part would fit.
FWIW, now that you've ground the spindle, you're set, and with fewer washers.
On the other hand, since the GUAI spindle is one heck of a lot tougher than most heli's, 'yer stuck with it for a while.... ;-)
Gr4yb3ard
Mine is only a couple of weeks old, but, if any of you remember that old commercial " push-pull click-click", well, mine does it too. :mad:
Dave
psindrup
05-28-2008, 03:21 PM
On the other hand, since the GUAI spindle is one heck of a lot tougher than most heli's, 'yer stuck with it for a while.... ;-)
Gr4yb3ard
Huh?
That was the very first thing I broke in my very first minor crash. :DOH
(I now have 3 bag full of them, because they were in back order when I had my crash, and I ordered them more than one place to get back in the air) :smokin:
Graybeard - for once we disagreed. :tongue
Peter
Buzzkill
05-28-2008, 05:08 PM
Huh?
That was the very first thing I broke in my very first minor crash. :DOH
(I now have 3 bag full of them, because they were in back order when I had my crash, and I ordered them more than one place to get back in the air) :smokin:
Graybeard - for once we disagreed. :tongue
Peter
Spindle or main grip screws? I've never broken a spindle and I'm sure I've crashed as much or more than most.
psindrup
05-28-2008, 05:14 PM
Spindle or main grip screws? I've never broken a spindle and I'm sure I've crashed as much or more than most.
Spindle - the one that the main grip screws screw into.
And yes, the main grip screws bent every time the heli does not land exactly on the skids. (=blades hitting "something") :)
Peter
goldslinger
05-28-2008, 05:53 PM
The thing that saves the spindle in a crash is it's short length and soft grip screws.
Good thing, too; as it's not always easy to pull the pin on it.