first thoughts

[littleman]

Hey all,
I just picked up an h200 and I really like it. I am running the stock motor/esc, hs-45's stock battery, a 401/3154. Even without the flybar weights its very stable for its size and rolls and flips very quickly. I set it up as the book says so that at mid stick the swash is 7mm above the top of the frames and worked up from there to get 0* at mid stick. I will measure my links to the swash later tonight and post them as I know there were people asking. I also switched to a carbon tail pushrod using .098 ID carrbon tube, much much stiffer.
A.J.

[J-Heli]

I will measure my links to the swash later tonight and post them as I know there were people asking.

I'd really appreciate that. :thumbup: Glad you like the little guy. Welcome to the crew, and keep us posted.

[goldslinger]

Hey all,
I just picked up an h200 and I really like it. I am running the stock motor/esc, hs-45's stock battery, a 401/3154. Even without the flybar weights its very stable for its size and rolls and flips very quickly. I set it up as the book says so that at mid stick the swash is 7mm above the top of the frames and worked up from there to get 0* at mid stick. I will measure my links to the swash later tonight and post them as I know there were people asking. I also switched to a carbon tail pushrod using .098 ID carrbon tube, much much stiffer.
A.J.

Yep, I did the C.F. rod thing too; the original wire was bouncing and strumming like a harp string.

[littleman]

Hey guys,
As promised here are my servo link lengths that got me to ~7mm from frame to swash. these measurements are TOTAL LENGTH from one end of the link to the end of the other.
Pitch servo(top in the left frame)- ~25mm
Aileron(bottom in right frame)- ~37mm
Elevator servo- ~33mm
Tail pushrod- I used 4mm ODx2.5mm ID carbon tube(midwest products #5721) cut down to a bit over 170mm in length and then just moved the servo mount until the arm was square as the manual suggested.
Today I put on the lightweight canopy and woodies and WOW this thing freakin rocks. The blades made a huge difference and man is this thing quick now, it rolls like a 90 and tracks reasonably well considering its size and the the blades are wood. it was holding well through piroflips, sustained tic-tocs and flips and everything stayed cool.
I hope this helps,
A.J.

[Gr4yb3ard]

Cool new-comer, Post, Post, Post dude!!!

Gr4yb3ard

[littleman]

anything in particular or just post :)
A.J.

[Buzzkill]

Just post. We rarely post anything useful :thumbup: (just kidding)

[Gr4yb3ard]

Dude, you're cool. Share stuff, don't worry about offending the likes 'o us....

....Fun, Learning, Friendship, and Mutual Respect..... Right there on the top left of the page....

Gr4yb3ard

[littleman]

Hey man I'm not worried, I just kinda go with the flow/roll with the punches whatever you prefer, and when I see something that I can input usefull (or sometimes funny/smarta$$ :) ) I do!!
A.J.

[Gr4yb3ard]

Smartass works for me <mode 1.>

Gr4yb3ard

[littleman]

oh good, in that case I may like it in this sub-forum.
A.J.

[J-Heli]

That's the reason I'm still here :).

[Buzzkill]

It's funner than getting your feet cut off at 6 flags. I'd give it 7 flags.

[rotorhead58d]

It's funner than getting your feet cut off at 6 flags. I'd give it 7 flags.

:arggg:those commercials make me want to kill someone

[GeneP]

A day late - as usual. I spent hours yesterday building my new 200 - my first time. My B400 re-builds as a result of crashes only made me THINK I knew what I was doing. If Buzzkill had posted his phone number I would have called him several times. :noteworthy Yep, I did watch his videos.
The length of the pushrods gave me the most trouble. I managed to get the swash perfectly level at 7.0mm -- with the stick at the down position! Then it dawned on me that something wasn't right. So, I started over with the stick at "0". Would somebody tell me that this is right, or do I start over again??:( I've got a level swash with the stick in the center position "0", and 7.0mm spacing. Sometimes I think I don't understand all I know about this stuff.:dontknow

[littleman]

WIth the stick in the middle the servo arms should be level, as well as the swash plate, and the spacing should be at 7mm. I hope this helps
A.J.

[stoatnchips]

Gene, thats a good start, if you mean "0" as center stick ;-) next work your way up through the head... their is some debate as to whether you need the washout arms level, but i made sure they were. Check the main blades are at 0 pitch when you are at center stick and thats about it. I have also fould that she does hover better if you take the time getting the flybar perfect!
Not sure how others get there but I screw the paddles & weights on the same number of turns both ends and then slide the Flybar back and forth until it teeters perfectly and tighten a set screw. Then measure the distance between the cage and the weights with a vernier... if they are more than 0.2mm different, adjust by screwing in one paddle and the other one out, loosen set screw, rotate flybar so paddles are in the right plane again and set the balance point again. I guess i'm just counter acting a weight difference in paddles by moving the flybar back and forth. Remeber the thread pitch is 0.4mm so each quater turn will move by 0.1mm; i was surprised to see how much difference it makes having this setup wrong! Any other questions on the build, i'm sure Buzz or Cuzz will give good advice, they seem to have built more of these critters than most!

[GeneP]

WIth the stick in the middle the servo arms should be level, as well as the swash plate, and the spacing should be at 7mm. I hope this helps
A.J.

Yep, thats the way it is set up.

My next step is to figure out all that percentage stuff in the Tx. If there is a starting point that I should have I would appreciate the help. BTW: I have the Logitech 2100T and have it pretty much figured out (with the help from some of the videos by certain members that don't have fins.:shock:

[littleman]

I can't really help you assuming you have a dx7 or equivilent, but in all honesty I left all my atv's at 100 and maxed everything until i had binding, thne I backed off. It turns out all the default setting on the 12z are good enough.
A.J.

[GeneP]

Not sure how others get there but I screw the paddles & weights on the same number of turns both ends and then slide the Flybar back and forth until it teeters perfectly and tighten a set screw. Then measure the distance between the cage and the weights with a vernier... if they are more than 0.2mm different, adjust by screwing in one paddle and the other one out, loosen set screw, rotate flybar so paddles are in the right plane again and set the balance point again. I guess i'm just counter acting a weight difference in paddles by moving the flybar back and forth. Remeber the thread pitch is 0.4mm so each quater turn will move by 0.1mm; i was surprised to see how much difference it makes having this setup wrong! Any other questions on the build, i'm sure Buzz or Cuzz will give good advice, they seem to have built more of these critters than most!

Thanks for the help -- I hadn't even given the flybar a thought. Info like the thread pitch is valuable stuff.

I need a class in terminology: I have finally learned what "rate mode" and "tail lock" means. But what is the difference in Heading Hold and tail lock. These little details run me nuts because I don't know. My 2100T instructions says it is a tail lock gyro. In watching some of the setup videos, it sounds like they are the same thing...

[GeneP]

I can't really help you assuming you have a dx7 or equivilent, but in all honesty I left all my atv's at 100 and maxed everything until i had binding, thne I backed off. It turns out all the default setting on the 12z are good enough.
A.J.

I have the DX6i that came with the B400. Is it worth the difference to spend the $$ for a DX7 -- since I am sitting here wanted a T-Rex SE V2?

[littleman]

no i have a 6i on a 400, its ok, but to be honest I prefer futaba fasst.
BTW same thing different brands have different terms HH vs tail lock as far as I know.
A.J.

[stoatnchips]

Not sure how your radio works or if there is a difference between them... Watch Bobs vidz on the trex build for ccpm setup and i would also search out ******777's(Hes now banned from HF, can i still promote these 3!!??) vidz on you tube.. i found these 3 easier to follow than Bobs. I found these settings worked well for my skills and my DX7

Throttle curve 0, 55, 80, 95, 100
Pitch curve 50, INH, 60, INH, 100

Expo
Aile 30
Elev 30
Rudder (Use the 2100 piro setting!)

play with Gyro gain when you are in the air and have set it up fully, i have it set to 90 at the mo, but i think as its on a DX7, you need to divide by 1.4 for a true gain figure.

I'm no expert, its just what i have found works well... these motors seem to work well at the top end of the range, hence my aggressive throttle curve.


***EDIT****
I guess the **** means HF filters out banned usernames automatically so try Bravo, Romeo, Oscar, Victor, Indigo, Charlie, 777 on youtube and watch them in sequence ;-)

Sorry Bob all your other Vidz Rock!!! but the Hitec 5000 is just not as easy to understand for a novice as this other one!!

[SurfCity]

But what is the difference in Heading Hold and tail lock. In watching some of the setup videos, it sounds like they are the same thing...

The are the same thing.

I know what you mean, though. Without knowing the terms -- ALL the terms -- it's easy to miss something important, or, conversely, obsess over something meaningless. For a long time I didn't know what CNC meant. I heard it so often that I was sure I was missing something really important. Turns out it means Computer Numerical Control, the term for precision-machined metal parts. Oh, metal stuff instead of plastic stuff. Trivial.

[knucklesdragon]

I managed to get the swash perfectly level at 7.0mm -- with the stick at the down position! Then it dawned on me that something wasn't right.


I did the exact same thing at first, got the swash all set perfect at 7mm with the links, even attached the arms on the servos so they were horizontal but the gears were turned to full negative pitch....DOH

After that I changed all 4 pitch curves in the radio to 50% straight across for setup, that way it didn't matter what flight mode I was in or where the throttle stick is at.