Are all the upgrades worth it????

[misterg74]

I just picked up a blade cx2 off e-bay cause the weather won't cooperate with any outdoor flying.........It came with the aluminum swashplate and lower head ....... I was thinking about buying the xtreme blade grips,extended head,shortened flybar and 180SE motors she flies pretty good as is are the upgrades worth it? Will they hurt or help the overall performance? I was also looking to ad the xtreme boom and canopy and boomtown's unbreakable landing gear ............ Purely for looks:)

[TowPilot]

I've upgraded to the Extreme Core and later I found this site (through others here)
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=A1972394

Cheapest parts, looks to be the same.


I purchased from here;
http://www.flyrcrivesud.com/ (this used to be http://www.bladecx2.com/ but no more, changed to the flyrcivesud.com URL)

I paid more for the parts, which, that happens. The shipping is slower because it passes through Canadian Customs, takes a while, but the parts do arrive in a week or so.

Here is what I have found, as others recommend, keep the weight off the heli.
I am down to having simple tip over accidents, with the throttle cut, seldom so much as nick a blade. Life is good.

EXCEPT... Grrrrrrrr The only part that breaks with regularity and this is frustrating, is the outer shaft BENDS.... that outer shaft is SOOOOOOOO soft, if you breathe on it, it WILL bend. Sad.... I've never replaced an outer shaft, or the top head.

The stock landing skids, they break.

So, what I like for upgrades, is. The soft landing skids with the z bend in them, they are springy and don't shear or break.

Since I don't break the other plastic parts, I find them satisfactory and being light, the heli is zippy.

So.... before I digress (again).....

Upgrade the

Heat Sink ... really helps keep the motors cool. Cut the front canopy to allow air flow to the heat sink on the motors, cut a hole in the bottom of the canopy to allow air out of the heli.

Skids ...to the soft springy ones, available from a couple sites

Carbon flybar ...never have to straighten a flybar again

I like the extended shaft from the Extreme Core or Xtreme Core but the outer shaft sucks. So, I plan to simply use the original shaft and use a 5 mm spacer to retain the extra spacing and use the longer inner shaft.

I did move the links on the servos out one hole but, for the indoor flying, it is not really necessary.

I like the plastic blade grips, I really do. Snug the blades just tight enough so that you can move them but not so that they will move in flight.

OH, and when you set up the top rotor, you may need to use 600 grit sandpaper to smooth out the ball links from the plastic mold and or get some smooth easy movement so the flybar can move freely and avoid the toilet bowl effect or TBE.



optional upgrades

Ball Bearing Motors ....just nice, quieter, cooler

[stsrus]

As Rotorwash stated, The unbreakable landing skids are a plus. I also went with an enclosed battery holder, keeps the battery from falling out on hard landings / crashes ( has a spring clip in the bottom so you can adjust battery position forward or back) I tried the pivoting blade grips with the extreme blades, but it made it too touchy to maneuver at faster speeds, it liked to go upside down when rapidly changing direction. (Could be operator error):fly I went back to the stock blades. I did go to the extended aluminum upper head on the inner shaft, Cuts down on blade strikes. Put in a set of SE180 ballbearing motors, They worked great until a capacitor went out on one, waiting for replacement set to arrive. But they do have more power and run cooler, can't say as to extented fly time because I didn't have them in long enough to tell. I have the boom kit on but I just liked the looks better, plus it made it easier to work on.

[Kindling Maker]

IMHO the aluminum is a waste, it adds weight and all it really does is look cool. Many people have had lots of problems with the CNC upgrades. I have all the upgrades EXCEPT the CNC stuff. The shaft extensions are a must.

[misterg74]

:confused:

[TowPilot]

Confused?

Well, consider this. The beneficial upgrades are the shaft extension, for more separation between the top and bottom rotor disks.

And anything that does not add weight, so if you want to change from stock blades that do not use blade grips to using blade grips, go plastic.

The heli weighs 8.1 oz. If you add 1/2 oz. of weight to the heli, that is significant. The motors draw more power from the battery and run hotter, the 3 in 1 becomes hotter because the ESC circuit is now handling more current. The amount of thrust available to recover from a descent is less because to hover, more of the total available thrust is being consumed in a standard hover. If you do something foolish with your thumbs and are falling and need to apply lots of power to stop the fall before hitting the floor, there is now less available excess power to use for this.

You are going to break blades when first flying. Adding the grips can reduce the blade breakage but, simply getting better also reduces blade breakage :)

I fly it both with or without the grips and break very few blades anymore. So the stock blades are fine.

This was made for indoor use or outdoors on a calm day. The stock blades are soft enough that a rapid stick movement will cause enough blade flex for the bottom blades to flex up far enough to strike an upper blade. Simple to avoid, don't snap a stick to the stops :)

Or, do the upgrade that adds 5 mm or more separation, the longer outer and inner shafts.

The problem I have is the place I bought the outer shafts from, makes the outer shafts far too soft to be useable. So I'll be looking for another source or try using a spacer and the stock outer shaft.

[TowPilot]

People look for the "ultimate CX2" for outdoor use in wind. (Maybe they are looking for this?)

Well, the ultimate CX2 to me is to fly it in the profile for which it was intended.
Each to their own of course, but to me, to try and build a CX2 into the ultimate outdoor in wind heli is like trying to ride a mule in the Kentucky Derby and expect to place :)

Or to expect to commute by riding a bicycle on the interstate highway. The square peg in a round hole problem.


The CX2 is perfect for calm days or some fun anytime in the garage, house or if you are fortunate to have access to a large auditorium sized building, great.


It is calm enough outdoors that I can frequently fly outside and use the driveway as the airport. But I go inside for less than idea outdoor conditions. Why spend $189 and then spend another $100 or more to try and gain a little more of a useful envelope? A crash in the wind is not going to be a slight affair for the wallet.

Get comfortable flying in the conditions the CX2 was intended for and you will save a lot of money. Like I said earlier, you will become proficient enough that stock parts will last very well, some of the upgrades like the plastic grips are convenient, the tail boom means the heli is much more open for access and cooling, etc.

But nothing is going to make this into an outdoor heli during weather that is making a 30 size or larger heli work hard in :)

What is so enjoyable about the heli is how easy it is to fly and learn about basic troubleshooting and taking apart and re-assembling a simple machine.

Moving on to a Trex 450 or other heli is very large step in cost, complexity and really requires local help and lots of time on your part, to enjoy the "next level".

I'm new at this but this is my perception of the hobby from my low time experience.

[bigblackken]

Rotorwash, may I ask what you use as a 5mm spacer? Do you simply cut a 5mm portion off a previously damaged outer shaft? thanks!

Also, it sounds like you do NOT recomend the aluminum upper head, lower head, or swash. I broke the lower head for the first time EVER and my swash keeps coming apart after crashes, but easily put back together. I have the alum upper head and heat sink, but those are my only 'upgrades' so far.

[misterg74]

Confused?

Well, consider this. The beneficial upgrades are the shaft extension, for more separation between the top and bottom rotor disks.

And anything that does not add weight, so if you want to change from stock blades that do not use blade grips to using blade grips, go plastic.

The heli weighs 8.1 oz. If you add 1/2 oz. of weight to the heli, that is significant. The motors draw more power from the battery and run hotter, the 3 in 1 becomes hotter because the ESC circuit is now handling more current. The amount of thrust available to recover from a descent is less because to hover, more of the total available thrust is being consumed in a standard hover. If you do something foolish with your thumbs and are falling and need to apply lots of power to stop the fall before hitting the floor, there is now less available excess power to use for this.

You are going to break blades when first flying. Adding the grips can reduce the blade breakage but, simply getting better also reduces blade breakage :)

I fly it both with or without the grips and break very few blades anymore. So the stock blades are fine.

This was made for indoor use or outdoors on a calm day. The stock blades are soft enough that a rapid stick movement will cause enough blade flex for the bottom blades to flex up far enough to strike an upper blade. Simple to avoid, don't snap a stick to the stops :)

Or, do the upgrade that adds 5 mm or more separation, the longer outer and inner shafts.

The problem I have is the place I bought the outer shafts from, makes the outer shafts far too soft to be useable. So I'll be looking for another source or try using a spacer and the stock outer shaft.
TY ........... That's what i needed to know:thumbup:

[Kindling Maker]

I run the Extreme blade holders, and the extended shafts. I have also gone with the boom tail kit. I have the Extreme 180 ballbearing SE motors and a heat sinc. I fly mine out doors in less than 5 kts wind with a little work. If you go to the Extreme Blade holders you can still use the stock blades, you just cut off the interlockers and drill a hole in them for the screw to go thru. Also I have the Extreme fly bar that is a big help, the fly bar can hit the bottom rotors, and then it becomes a brick. The only thing that I dont have is the CNC stuff. I love my CX2, I also fly a B-400 so I am E-flight all the way. Also once you get used to flying it you can always go to the next hole in the servo horn, but if you do that you almost have to have the extended shafts. I am on the 3rd hole in my servo arm and it is really tonchy but it is very controlable.

[TowPilot]

Rotorwash, may I ask what you use as a 5mm spacer? Do you simply cut a 5mm portion off a previously damaged outer shaft? thanks!

Also, it sounds like you do NOT recomend the aluminum upper head, lower head, or swash. I broke the lower head for the first time EVER and my swash keeps coming apart after crashes, but easily put back together. I have the alum upper head and heat sink, but those are my only 'upgrades' so far.

I don't want to make an extension that requires disassembly to service the parts on the lower portion of the outer shaft (lower head).

So, I'm testing out a nylon spacer that sits above the outer shaft bearing and supports the upper head.

I do not recommend the aluminum blade holders. The plastic ones are holding up well for me and are, if ever broken, dirt cheap to replace.

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=A1972394

Sounds crazy but keeping the grams off this heli is an upgrade in and of itself!!

It is a waste to spend money trying to make this into something it is not :) But, there are upgrades to make it better at what it DOES do well :)

I have the heat sink, and it sounds like the BB motors run cooler and do not need the heat sink.

I have read the aluminum swash tightens the heli up, probably due to the second bearing. I might give that one a whirl, I'll all about landing practice on small targets :)


Hope that helps,
Mike

[misterg74]

I don't want to make an extension that requires disassembly to service the parts on the lower portion of the outer shaft (lower head).

So, I'm testing out a nylon spacer that sits above the outer shaft bearing and supports the upper head.

I do not recommend the aluminum blade holders. The plastic ones are holding up well for me and are, if ever broken, dirt cheap to replace.

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=A1972394

Sounds crazy but keeping the grams off this heli is an upgrade in and of itself!!

It is a waste to spend money trying to make this into something it is not :) But, there are upgrades to make it better at what it DOES do well :)

I have the heat sink, and it sounds like the BB motors run cooler and do not need the heat sink.

I have read the aluminum swash tightens the heli up, probably due to the second bearing. I might give that one a whirl, I'll all about landing practice on small targets :)


Hope that helps,
Mike
Sure does .......... Thanks:thumbup:

[Kindling Maker]

I have the BB motors and I still run a Heat sinc, but I am running in temps that most people only read about. I melted a canopy, after 2 packs. I fly naked right now but I am ordering a new body next month.

[bigblackken]

what are BB motors? sorry for all the questions.

i bought the alum lower head and the swash. before i could fly pretty well for around 8 min. i added a heat sink, but didn't notice much difference. perhaps i need to vent the canopy. anyways, at around 8 min, the performance starts to go a little but not much.

however, with the upgrades, it seems i'm drawing a little more amperage according to how much charge i put back in. But at around 5 minutes, performance is noticably degraded. I think its the motors getting to hot from the increased weight. it could be my batteries, but they are new (but not eflite) and i doubt this.

but it could be, and correct me if I'm wrong- 1) minor bending of the shafts- not enough to cause major vibration, but enough to increase the work the motors do. does this make sense?

2) increased heat because of the added weight?

3) motors too old? also, can old motors cause glitching?

im not sure what the difference in weight is. i might try switching back to stock swash and replaceing the shafts for questionable bending, although they probably are all right. ive had a bunch of minor crashes so who knows.

the metal swash DOES make the heli feel 'tighter'. but i'd rather have my previous performance. which is slightly more slop in control, but longer 'high performance' time. a lot of what i'm talking about is conjecture since i havent tried switching back to old equipment..

thanks

[Kindling Maker]

"BB" stands for Ball Bearing. You get more power and longer run times. I have stayed away from all the metal upgrades they look good but add too much weight.

[TowPilot]

OK, to use the last of my stock outer shafts, and use the longer inner shaft, I needed a spacer.

You are gonna love this or maybe not :)

What I used was a piece of "swizzle stick" from a drink.

Yep, works like a charm, weighs nothing. Welp, that's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
Looks kinda cool too because it is red and matches the canopy.
:roll:


What I'm going to do for the long term is use the carbon rod as the outer shaft, this has been designed and documented by benzee1, on page http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=37562&page=2, starting at msg #13.

Consider that what causes blade strikes is how soft the stock blades are, they curve up and strike the top rotors during a hard cyclic input. There are "racing" blades available that do not flex under a sudden heavy load.

Mike

Mike

[Kindling Maker]

On the blades you can also use clear packing tape on the bottom, it makes them a little stronger.

[stsrus]

On the blades you can also use clear packing tape on the bottom, it makes them a little stronger.

I have used tape to patch split blades, but it did not dawn on me to use the tape in a precrash mode. Thanks for the idea, I will give it a whirl, so to speak.

On a side note, Kindling Maker, how is the outdoor flying in Mosul? Some how I would picture it calm (no wind that is) dry and a lot of open space. Just wondering

[TowPilot]

The racing blades do not flex like the stock blades.

Tape would sure help with all other aspects of extending blade life though.
Even leading edge sand erosion :)


Just the thought of that powdering grit in my heli though, yuck... I plan on keeping my laptop in a an oversized ziploc bag while I'm there between uses and if I take a CX2 there, it will basically be written off due to the dirt. Just use it and enjoy it.

Mike

[stsrus]

Do the racing blades require that you have the pivoting blade holdes? I have not run across any aftermarket blades that fit the stock CX2 rotor heads.

[TowPilot]

Yes, the racing blades require aftermarket blade holders.

This is what they look like, get the plastic ones if you want to keep the weight off.

It is a pricey upgrade but I do like how it flies, seems to jump up because the blades don't lose lift by "spilling" it from curling.

You do need to learn the technique of tightening the blade screw so that it does pivot but not easily. You also learn to spin up one rotor at a time to see if the blades are straight. If not, the rotor mast will wobble, just move the blades until they are straight and there is no wobble and you are good to go.