200 frame mods

[Montana_Reefer]

Hey guys, I was telling Rick Lohr about these tiny helicopters yesterday, and the need for more real estate on them. Would you guys please post your needs and sugestions as to any parts Rick might be able to make for us!

Thanks
Bryce

[Buzzkill]

We did.

[Buzzkill]

I'd personaly love to see Rick make some Gyro/RX trays that eliminated two of the frame spacers between the upper and lower frames. It would make for super easy instalation and allow the user to adjust the the trays angle to accomodate both 2S and 3S batteries along with various gyro sizes in paticular the height. I use the 450 trays on mine and mount both the RX and the Gyro on them. I've attached some pics (NOT TO SCALE) to illustrate the idea.

Any input and certainly rdlohr's input would be appreciated. Should be relatively easy with the dimensions and a cnc machine. I don't own one but I'd think you'd plug the numbers, lay the plastic sheet and hit the button. Shows ya how much I know, probably over-simplifying a bit but you get the idea.

Yep another sleepless night dreaming up heli stuff.

[rdlohr]

Thanks guys. How short can that slot on top be?

Rick

[rdlohr]

If there is a lot of interest, I'll buy the Gaui to try it.
Rick

[Gr4yb3ard]

Hey Rick!

I'll bet that mention was aimed my way! I recently bashed my right hand in a door, and am still suffering the consequenses. No actually, this sucks when you type at 10wpm....

FWIW, and no slight to anyone intended, here's my take on this.

1. A forward, slanted battery tray. Get the C.G. back where it belongs and mount up to 1350ma 3s batteries. Maybe a provision for getting the rx up under there away from electrics as well (zip tie locations). I can do this in aluminum, but there is probably a better way given more thought.

2. The bottom "deck". What a mess, the nut and bolt stays don't hold up too well after dirtnaps, and to an engineer, are just plain ugly, hard to tighten correctly, loosen up, break. Well they break if you fly like I do.

3. Tailpost that does not dig into sod, sand etc. I built one and am extremely happy with the mod. If I put my horizontal fin on the bottom of the vertical tailpost, I can also get rid of the parasitic fin on the boom bracket, if not the entire boom support. Just an inverted "t" that does not allow the tail rotor to dig into terra firma.

4. CF Tailrotor pushrod. I've been at this for some time, can't find the correct diameter to replace the OEM "shaky wire"

Gr4yb3ard

[Buzzkill]

Thanks guys. How short can that slot on top be?

Rick

About 17mm to clear the frame depending on the thickness of the material used to make the tray.

I'm not good with metric conversions but I think these are accurate.

[small.planes]

2. The bottom "deck". What a mess, the nut and bolt stays don't hold up too well after dirtnaps, and to an engineer, are just plain ugly, hard to tighten correctly, loosen up, break. Well they break if you fly like I do.


Ive not managed to break mine in numerous 'sport landings'. I have bust the LG a lot tho:arggg:


3. Tailpost that does not dig into sod, sand etc. I built one and am extremely happy with the mod. If I put my horizontal fin on the bottom of the vertical tailpost, I can also get rid of the parasitic fin on the boom bracket, if not the entire boom support. Just an inverted "t" that does not allow the tail rotor to dig into terra firma.

I think you still need the tailboom supports, esp with the rubbish plastic tail boom clamp at the frame end.
After a few tail first landings :shock: it loosens up quite a lot.


4. CF Tailrotor pushrod. I've been at this for some time, can't find the correct diameter to replace the OEM "shaky wire"

Im using a 3mm OD 2mm ID CF tube fom DPP pultrusions, with a short length of 2mm/1mm in one end with the snipped off end theaded bit in it, and the link just glued into the other end. I have had to reinforce the glued end with a wrap of Cable tie and thread soaked in CA as I snapped the link in one of the aforementioned tail first sport landings. If I was doing it again I think Id just use 2mm/1mm tube and the snipped threaded bits.
Ill post a pic later, Im at work atm.
Its quite windy here, way past exciting. total cost: 2 *MORE* feathering bolts :woot
Dave

[Montana_Reefer]

Im using a 3mm OD 2mm ID CF tube fom DPP pultrusions, with a short length of 2mm/1mm in one end with the snipped off end theaded bit in it, and the link just glued into the other end. I have had to reinforce the glued end with a wrap of Cable tie and thread soaked in CA as I snapped the link in one of the aforementioned tail first sport landings. If I was doing it again I think Id just use 2mm/1mm tube and the snipped threaded bits.
Ill post a pic later, Im at work atm.
Its quite windy here, way past exciting. total cost: 2 *MORE* feathering bolts :woot
Dave

Any one just found a CF tube w/ the same ID as the control rod and just slipped it over the rod w/ a drop of epoxy on each end. This provides the stiffness needed and you don't worry about the threaded link ends comming out as it is one piece!

Bryce

[Gr4yb3ard]

My LHS(s) only stock Midwest carbon, and don't have the right size in that line.
When I get home, I'm putting a spare link on my keychain, and will just shop 'till I drop.

I'll post as soon as I find a brand that fits and seems stiff enough. Let me know if you guys find anything. It would be nice if we could find something orderable from RH or HH.

Gr4yb3ard

[small.planes]

if you dont mind ordering over the internet from blighty try http://www.indoorflyer.co.uk (http://www.indoorflyer.co.uk/) but be quick, hes closing on the 30th
the us distributor is http://www.peck-polymers.com/store/Category.asp?Cguid={83EDAFAD-5B23-4682-A753-363EB3C5F830}&Category=BuildingMaterials%3ACarbon+Pultrusion (http://www.peck-polymers.com/store/Category.asp?Cguid=%7B83EDAFAD-5B23-4682-A753-363EB3C5F830%7D&Category=BuildingMaterials%3ACarbon+Pultrusion)

Ill go and take some photos now, and measure which tube it is, Im pretty sure its 2mm od tho.

Dave

[small.planes]

Ok, some pics. I used 3mm od tube, with the ball link glued inside the tail end, and a piece of 2mm od glued in the servo end and a short piece of threaded end glued inside that, then the link screwed on. the thread wrap is to prevent the tube splitting :)

The blue cable tie wrapped round the link reinforces it.

Dave

[J-Heli]

Cool. Looks much more stiff than the stock linkage.

[ride1226]

I would love to see a battery tray designed like the 450. I think we have the room under the canopy to get alot more lipo under there, and this would give us a spot for the rx and gyro.

[Montana_Reefer]

Hey guys,
Any other suggestions that Rick could machine for us?

Rick,
This may sound stupid, but can lexan be machined into a tail push rod? Or would it just be too thin?

[Buzzkill]

My LHS(s) only stock Midwest carbon, and don't have the right size in that line.
When I get home, I'm putting a spare link on my keychain, and will just shop 'till I drop.

I'll post as soon as I find a brand that fits and seems stiff enough. Let me know if you guys find anything. It would be nice if we could find something orderable from RH or HH.

Gr4yb3ard

Another way to solve the problem is to keep the metal rod and "wrap" it with cf. All you need is a cf rod with a id large enough to fit over the plastic link end. Measure the length of the entire tail rod assembly right up to the "loops" on the links. Cut the cf tube that length. remove one of the links from the rod, slide the tube over the rod and reinstall the removed link.

[Montana_Reefer]

Any one just found a CF tube w/ the same ID as the control rod and just slipped it over the rod w/ a drop of epoxy on each end. This provides the stiffness needed and you don't worry about the threaded link ends comming out as it is one piece!

Bryce

Hey Buzz,
I see we think alike! My 450 SEv2 has been that way since day one, didn't like the new guide design!

[knucklesdragon]

If there is a lot of interest, I'll buy the Gaui to try it.
Rick

Rick, I say buy a 200 anyway... You will love it!!! The Gaui 200 and Trex 450 go SO well together. Also I think your part designs would include the magic ingredient (love) if you had a vested interest (your own G200).


-----As far as Battery/Gyro/Rx trays go... There seems to be 3 common mounting options. (sorry for pirating your pictures below, I just wanted quick examples)

#1. Pictured above in Buzzkill's very nice drawings.

#2. Would be straight out from the center frame support. this mount usually requires 2 extra holes to be drilled into the lower frame sides
Similar to Locktite's
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s65/Locktite116/IMG_0845.jpg
or Mr.Slumber's
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff224/obdura/IMG_4078.jpg

#3. Would be similar to how I have mine mounted. If made out of lexan I would replace the very front top frame spacer instead of bolting in from the outside.
Here is a photo of Loddebolton's set up
http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=47574&d=1210315652



-----How about a lexan boom block? modeled after the CNC upgrade boomblock...

-----I would buy a Lexan Bottom tray! Like Gr3y said, I would love to get rid of those crappy little nuts that hold that thing together.





Thanks for your consideration!

[Montana_Reefer]

knucklesdragon,

Thanks for the great summary! I agree Rick you would appreaciate the quality of this heli, not sayiny you'll trade in the Sexy Rexy for it but it will compliment your fleet well!

Also I'm not clear on the cross over market of this heli so guys speak up! But I belive this heli is under a couple of other names but not in CNC am I correct?

Thanks everyone!
Bryce

[Buzzkill]

I've been in contact with Rick over the last couple days regarding the tray and possible solutions that will work for everyone.

The problem at this point is making a bolt on solution that will work for everyone that is time and cost effective.

The 450 battery tray like I use and Mr. Sluber's tray requires two holes to be drilled into the frame so it's not "bolt on".

The tray like the Loddebolton's and the one I drew previously requires a "slot" to fit around the upper frame halves and isn't cost effective given the tooling required to cut the slot but would be a "bolt on" product.

The issue in my opinion is being able to accomodate everyones setup. The ability to use multiple gyros, 2S and 3S batteries and mount the RX at the same time. Personaly, I'm opposed to mounting the gyro under the tray simply because of the people including myself that uses gyros (except the Spartan 760 that I know of) that require manaul adjustments to the gyro and being under the tray its a pain in the but to do so. I know there are other gyros that don't require this but a lot of peoples do.

The only solution I can think of and which I've spoken to Rick about is making the tray like I've drawn it without the slot. That way it can be mounted like Mr. Slumbers and My 450 tray with drilling two holes into the frame or Like Loddebolton's and the drawing I made by cutting your own slot.

Just my $.02 for what it's worth. Please, if you have any suggestions let Rick, Reefer or myself know.

One thing that is for sure, the Gaui 200 needs a simple Gyro/RX/Battery tray that will be accepted by the masses as a simple easy to install solution.

[rotorhead58d]

what about stretching this heli? longer tail boom. bring the tray out a little towards the nose. buzz, get to work on a canopy that fits the 200 long version. wolverine 2

[rdlohr]

I made two types.

I could make the rectular one a regular product if there is interest. It would came with the hardware shown and sell for $16. $2.50 shipping to US. $5 shipping anywhere else

The version with the slot would be harder to mass produce but if there is a lot of interest I would consider it.

The first ones go to Buzzkill since he initiated this.

http://www.helifreak.com/picture.php?albumid=869&pictureid=6161

Rick

[Montana_Reefer]

That looks great Rick, so I can get the one on the left?

BTW what kind of machine are you using for this?

Bryce

[rdlohr]

That looks great Rick, so I can get the one on the left?

BTW what kind of machine are you using for this?

Bryce
Drill, table saw, sander, dremel in this case. Thats why I can't easily mass produce the left one. I'll make a few for you guys though.


Rick

[Montana_Reefer]

Drill, table saw, sander, dremel in this case. Thats why I can't easily mass produce the left one. I'll make a few for you guys though.


Rick

Dang Rick I thought you had a CNC for this!

What about a router table w/ a fence and stop block to cut the center out? Is there enough clearance in the bottom of the cut (radius) to use a 3/8 bit then flip it and repeat?

Starting w/a rectangular blank like the one on the right.

Bryce