ESC is HOT even after moving it to a vented area.

[SkunkyMagoo]

My ESC is REALLY HOT...it is only like 88F out. I have even moved the ESC outside the of the frame and cut out my canopy for better cooling...no dice.

I am not getting thermal shurtdown or anything but it will burn the poo out of my finger to the touch.

[Slyster]

My CC BEC helped.. mine too was too hot to touch. Now just warm.

Here's a copy/paste from the b400 bible BEC/ESC chapter. Some stuff there about BEC. Or get a new ESC?

Some links won't work here.. since they are snipped.. but you get the idea. Of course the vents idea is in there too and obviously that didn't work!

Thought about adding a heatsink to the blue heatsink? Something longer to stick out the sides?

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#10- BEC/ESC
BEST ESC... http://www.castlecreations.com/products/phoenix-35.html
CC ESC install http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=875610
CC ESC user guide http://www.castlecreations.com/support/documents/Phoenix_User_Guide.pdf
Great BEC (use 6v) http://www.dimensionengineering.com/SportBEC.htm
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- Stock ESC poor.. gets hot.. especially with upgrades.. add a CC BEC... or a better ESC.
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cutting out the fake vents on the front of the canopy helps A LOT as well...its gets plenty of airflow over it that way in FF- (BladeCX2Runner)
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A BEC is cheap insurance and if your going to upgrade servos, like digital tail is a good idea. As for the FREE fan for cooling (main rotor) I have the ESC mounted on the forward outside of the frame below the batt location and the BEC on the other side, small vents cut in the canopy as others have done and things stay much cooler. TX Supra6
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In my experience BECs don't get that hot. It can be mounted on the side of the frame. Pretty easy to install, there are two ways to do it. Check out BEC 101 at Helifreak and it should answer your questions. My stock ESC gave out so i just replaced it with a esc that had an existing BEC. I would think a good place to mount the stock esc is underneath the frame where it can pick up a bit more air. That would apply more to forward flight i guess though. My 35a esc on my rex gets pretty hot after a hard run, I'm thinking of getting one myself. http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=55538 (thanks JustinMoore12)
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To check firmware... For the AR6100e, they are currently up to v1.6, which will obviously have the Quick Connect feature since it was actually added mid v1.2.
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Good ESC to get ($85) if issues... Castle Creations Phoenix 35
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You want to program it to 3 cell lipo, Low voltage cutoff,(i would suggest soft, it wont completely cut out if you run the battery low.) disable the brake, soft start to your desired time (longer the time the longer it will take to spool up) and you should be good to go.. no governor.
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After replacing all servos on my blade400, ESC started to run hot. I installed External BEC(Castle Creations 10A BEC $25Cdn). Installation was really easy, splice the BEC wires into the power leads on the ESC then run the wire from the BEC to the receivers BATT input then cut the red wire that comes from the ESC to the receiver. Next cut the yellow control wire from the BEC lead(AR6100E).

[SkunkyMagoo]

I am running stock servo's. I really cant imagine them drawing so much current it heats up my ESC like that. When I drop the JR's in BEC no doubt, do it on my planks all the time.

I even put better thermal paste on the mosfets to help cool it. It worked well this morning when it was cooler, must just be the ambient temp/sun shine.

[Slyster]

My totally stock heli was scorching.. now with my $25 BEC... even with all new servos and 401 gyro.. just warm. :) Do it! I just foam taped the BEC up from on the right side just below the battery. Doesn't hit the canopy.

[SkunkyMagoo]

So what did you do about the binding problem with the CC BEC and the AR6100? Y connector?

[SkunkyMagoo]

Here is what I did...easy way to muff up a 450 canopy eh? Next time I will break out the dremel.

[ted_wears_a_hat]

So what did you do about the binding problem with the CC BEC and the AR6100? Y connector?

Dimension Engineering SportBEC is basically plug and play, solder to the battery leads on the ESC, plug the ESC into the SBEC and the SBEC into the rx in the old ESC plug.

Cool blue LED when running on 4.8v is a bonus.

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/SportBEC.htm if you're in N.America or http://www.technobots.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000002.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2etechnobots% 2eco%2euk%2f&WD=sportbec&PN=RC_BEC_Regulators%2ehtml%23a1062_2d011#a1062_2d 011 if you are in the UK or Europe.

D.E. SportBEC:
http://www.helifreak.com/picture.php?albumid=827&pictureid=5827

Mounted under battery:
http://www.helifreak.com/picture.php?albumid=827&pictureid=6111

[LockMD]

Slyster is a bit biased in his bible for not mentioning the SportBEC its MUCH easier to install and a TON more user friendly......BUT

Skunky if I remember from your earlier posts you are running really low throttle curves that is your heat issue on a stock setup. (its also an issue of feeling light and uncontrollable in winds)

I dont 'know' anything but this is how it was explained to me.....

The ESC acts like a break I forget what your curves are so I will compare stock to mine to try to explain. stock is linear 0-25-50-75-100 mine 0-45-90-90-90 (normal mode) I'd say most times in the air just messing around hovering moving a tad we are probably at 3/4 stick so...

with the stock your mostly flying at 75 vs me at 90 (I think yours are lower than stock?)

ESC being a brake......the ESC is taking full voltage/amps from the battery and it releases the amount of volts/amps per throttle curves in the stock setting its holding back 25% where on mine is only holding back 10% so I run a lot cooler.

Not very good at explaining things, does that make sense?

[ted_wears_a_hat]

^ Makes sense to me Lock.

An electronic speed controller will inherently create more heat at lower speeds as the resistance used to lower the delivery generates heat.

It's physics innit.

:YeaBaby:

[sparx-]

Just put a 9T pinion on, then you and your heli will be happier.

SPaRX

[weru]

I am running a CC Bec and still the esc is hot to the touch. I am just hovering and simmple forward and kind of 8's. I guess what the last posts abouth the throttle curve and the voltage has everything to do with it. Higher voltage to the engine, less resistance through the esc therefore cooler esc.
I believe the 9t pinion as sparx suggested should fix it. I am still waiting to crash :shock: and order parts to order my 9t.

[Slyster]

No.. CC ESC is just as easy as the SportBEC... well.. almost since you do have to solder the power wires to the deans connector... heres all you do... solder the wires to the battery.. and how to keep BATT open for binding? It was so easy.. remember how the gyro gain yellow wire has two open spots? That's where you pop in the pins from the BEC to power the RX.

[Wolfpackin]

Magoo,

I'm guessing you already checked these things but belt tension, gear mesh and tight ball linkages can all contribute to very high ESC temps.

I like to run my belt looser than suggested by the manual and it reduced ESC heat a lot.
Tight ball llinks will also force the servos to draw more amperage and raise ESC temps.
These things make a bigger impact than most people expect.

I'm flying at extreme altitude in high mountain desert sun (75-85F) with no BEC and my ESC temps are around 95F or lower after a 6 minute flight.

[LockMD]

No.. CC ESC is just as easy as the SportBEC... well.. almost since you do have to solder the power wires to the deans connector... heres all you do... solder the wires to the battery.. and how to keep BATT open for binding? It was so easy.. remember how the gyro gain yellow wire has two open spots? That's where you pop in the pins from the BEC to power the RX.

I will disagree again....Sport and CC is the same soldering.

CC you have to cut a wire to your esc (not good for me anyhow)

CC you have to have a cable link to your computer to change voltage output

Oh and that wierd thing you have to do with CC plugging it into the batt slot makes no sense to me

SportBEC - after the equivilant soldering of the CC bec - all you do is unplug your current esc from the rx thro position plug it into the SportBEC then plug the SportBEC into the thro position in the rx and your DONE oh wait want to change voltage output? flip the switch....toooooo easy compared to the CC and if you ever decide to sell it (since you didnt have to cut any wires its real easy to put back in orig state)


EDIT: The SportBEC is 35 bucks, if they gave away the CC BEC for free, I would still choose the SportBEC

[Slyster]

Hey... any REAL reason for me to bother changing the BEC voltage from the default 5v to 6V... remember.. I am just park flying at best.

[SkunkyMagoo]

Ok...

My pitch/throttle curves are 100% stock whatever it is shipped with. My belt is LOOSE if it was any looser it would skip a gear.

Mesh could be an issue? I heard some people adjusting the tail drive gear mesh by drilling out the holes a little?

CC or sport bec dont matter to me although I have been a loyal castle customer for a while and get discounts from a certain retailer.

[LockMD]

Hey... any REAL reason for me to bother changing the BEC voltage from the default 5v to 6V... remember.. I am just park flying at best.

Thats all I am doing too, well maybe a tad more.....but isnt easier to learn on what you will be doing? If you learn and comfy and easy then it will be harder to progess. The crutch will hinder you in the long run....

Hey to each their own dude. I am not knocking you or what you do. I was just trying to say the SportBEC is much easier to install/use/make changes, etc...

You have the CC version and you like it, GREAT but let others know there are other options is all I am saying.

:hug: its all good

[Slyster]

LockMD.. I don't get your response.. All I was asking if it's worth switching the BEC to 6v... it would just mean I have to buy a computer cable for it... not sure what the difference between 5v and 6v is as it applies to flying characteristics. I have no opinions on anything! I just bought what my LHS had.. I wanted the SportBEC but they hadn't ever heard of it.

[weru]

I have the CC Bec, and just got the castle link to program it to 6v. I have only hovered a little bit since and have not noticed any difference at all. Maybe its because I'm still new to the hobbie and can't tell the difference. I have the HS65MG which are supposed to run faster at 6v.

[smokndodge]

I just bought an Align 35 Amp ESC that has a 6V BEC built in. It works GREAT! It was aprox 50 bucks but It really helped with the temps on the Bat., Motor, and ESC plus pushed 6V to my gyro/servo's. It barely gets warm during a full Batt hover(2100mah). It is the 35A Brushless ESC(Governer Mode) (http://www.align.com.tw/shop/product_info.php?cPath=22_67&products_id=1145)
RCE-BL35X.

[Wolfpackin]

I have the RCE-BL35X on my wish list.
Did you do any programming or are you using it as it came out of the box?

[smokndodge]

I have the RCE-BL35X on my wish list.
Did you do any programming or are you using it as it came out of the box?

At this point everything out of stock has worked better than the stock ESC that was in it. I really like how it works out of the box!

[netrag]

will the align RCE-BL35X ESC with its 6v bec work with the stock blade 400 servos and gyro?

-thanks

[TowPilot]

My ESC is REALLY HOT...it is only like 88F out. I have even moved the ESC outside the of the frame and cut out my canopy for better cooling...no dice.

I am not getting thermal shurtdown or anything but it will burn the poo out of my finger to the touch.

Mine had thermal shutdown twice.

I loosened the belt a bit to the spec Sokal recommends. Thinking the belt could be loading the motor up, drawing more amps than normal.

I moved it out from the frame to the outside. I fly (hovering is flying, right?) with the canopy off for cooling.

No more thermal shutdown. Only 9 flights later, I put the pack on, plugged it in, walked away to begin hovering and saw a small stream of smoke from the bottom of the heli. Ran up to it and unplugged the pack. It was the stock ESC that was smoking :bawl


The heli does have JR DS285s, a GY401 & JR 3400G so I can't complain because I would think these maybe draw more amps than the stock servos.

Oh well, time to order a Phoenix 35 and use a CC BEC.....


http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60360&stc=1&d=1219652266


http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60359&stc=1&d=1219652266

[helicraze]

I hammer my blade 400 doing flips/tic tocks/stall turns and climbouts (10/10 pitch and 7 deg cyclic) and after 5 min the ESC is only warm, same with motor etc.
I found the belt from the factory is alwasys too tight, i loosened it off a bit and its much better.
Also i only fly in idle up mode 100/90/82.5/90/100.

I suspect a few of you have too tight belt and motor mesh to tight and also low value throttle curve.