Cyclic throws?

[rccardude04]

I'm only getting about 5 degrees of cyclic on Aileron. I'm not really wanting to fly 3D off the bat and was trying to figure out if this would be too mushy. My Raptor 50 has about 8 and I'm always trying to get more, but I do loops, rolls, flips, tic tocs, etc. with that thing.
Anybody? Should I try to get more or will 5 degrees be alright?

-Eric

[cbergen]

What are your ATV settings in the radio?

I typically have 7 degrees of cyclic travel with the swashplate movement maxed out without banging against the main shaft.

[rccardude04]

ATV and dual rates are all up super high. I thought 5 was a little low. I was trying to actually get 7 but failed miserably.

I was wondering because I'm having a geometry issue. Using the small JR servo wheel makes the rods hit the frames with anything over about 5 degrees (probably 110% ATV/100% dual rate). If I use the large wheel or anything really bigger, I seem to have linkages hitting each other during certain movements.

It's been a while since I messed with it, but this appears to be an issue only I have encountered.

Why me? lol

-Eric

[cbergen]

Which cyclic are you measuring, ELE or AIL?

And exactly HOW are you measuring it?

Would it be possible to get some pics of your setup?

[rccardude04]

Flybar perpendicular to main shaft, blades front to back (parallel to tail boom), checking ailerons with pitch gauge relative to flybar at zero collective pitch.
It's the same way I do it with my raptor. I wouldn't have even checked it except I realized that it just seemed like there wasn't much throw. The swash wasn't moving much. I have plenty of elevator. I haven't measured it but there's probably 7-8 or so.

I can't really get a picture. My camera has been missing for a long time. I've reviewed the instructions SEVERAL times and can't find anything I've done wrong.

If I can get ahold of a camera, I'll try to take a photo but it's not likely unfortunately.

Thanks for the quick replies by the way! I know you're off the clock, so you da man! :D

-Eric

[Denny22]

What does ATV mean?


Denny

[rccardude04]

What does ATV mean?


Denny


Same as end points. It's futaba lingo. LOL

-Eric

[rccardude04]

If I REALLY need pictures, I can probably make it happen.
I was just hoping there was some common thing that I missed that someone would suggest off the top of their head.

I looked at it again, and it's just really that the radius between the ball and horn is too small. But if I get any bigger, there's problems hitting the linkage. Might have to try and drill some fresh holes in the big horn...

-Eric

[rccardude04]

Here are a few horrible pictures.

Sorry about the quality. Camera Phone. I lit them as best I could, but the angles are horrible. I hope it helps.

The aileron rod will hit the gold elevator control thing if I move the linkages out more. However, if I leave it alone, the aileron rods hit the frames if I have more than about 4-5 degrees of cyclic.

-Eric

[kelly steed]

ckeck to see if your elevator control yoke is centred in the frames,make sure your collective axels have been seated all the way in the collective arms,you may have to make some adjustment to center your yoke,I think your binding because off some thing wrong with yoke,colletive axels,and collective arms.

[rccardude04]

As far as I can tell, it's all seated properly and nothing is even actually binding. The linkage just hits itself when you have a long enough arm to get the appropriate travel.

I can't be the only person who has ever had this problem...

-Eric

[rccardude04]

Alright, I was able to get 7 degrees out of it, but only at 140% on my 9C, which is maxxed out. The rods still hit the frames at anything above about 5 degrees of collective though, which is no good.
I'm about to the point where I wonder if I should just dremel the frames... even though I really just need a slightly larger wheel. *goes to mess with it some more*

-Eric

[rccardude04]

Well, in the farther out holes on the small JR wheel, it seems to be happier. It just barely touches the frames at 115%, and gives me almost exactly 7 degrees of cyclic, which I am content with. I might have to grind the frames just a smidge, so they don't try to cut through the aileron rods.

-Eric

[cbergen]

That would be true. In your pics I could not see the wheels, but if you take the measurements given in the manual and apply them to the JR wheels, it falls in pretty close to the outer holes on the wheel.

Make sure that you still apply the offset, do not install the balls straight across on the servo wheel.

The ATV's that I end up with are 115 on AIL, 85 on ELE.

[rccardude04]

Oh, well in that case I should be good to go then. I am using the offset holes in the wheel, on the outside ones. I had it where they were 90 degrees from where they are now. I'll try to MS Paint modify a photo for you if i can find one. 115 is my aileron and 100 is my elevator, but I'm using slightly farther in holes on the elevator.

Edit: I think this is the large one, but it doesn't really matter. The red is where it did not work, and the blue appears to function.

Again, it still hits the frames a bit but I think I can grind it just a smidge, or maybe even bend the link ever so slightly.

-Eric

[cbergen]

Exactly correct, the blue holes are the ones we use.

Where exactly is it hitting the frames? It should NEVER be necessary to grind frames....

[rccardude04]

Here goes. Pictures are horrible but I've circled it.

And no, it's not hitting the Zip Tie. It's VERY close but not quite.

It's basically the spot where the threaded portion meets the non-threaded portion on my rod. Probably 3-5mm from the rod end.

The confusing part is that it doesn't hit on the other side even though the balls are all the right length, the thing is centered, and the rods are the same length.

-Eric

[cbergen]

I see the problem, your Aileron servo is too low. The plate that it attaches to needs to but flipped over so that the servo can sit into the pocketed area.

This will raise the aileron rods up away from the frames.....

[rccardude04]

Interesting. It's exactly the same as the manual, but I will try it.
Thanks Chris!

-Eric

[rccardude04]

Well, now it doesn't hit the frame but the aileron linkage hits the elevator 4-arm piece thing.

I guess at that point though, everything in the head starts to bind. If I'm using anything above zero collective, back elevator, and right aileron, the right aileron rod hits the elevator 4-arm piece, but the main shaft is trying to twist off to the right also because everything is binding up. It's only at the very extremes.

Thing is, I know I have used that input before with my Raptor, coming out of stall turns or whatever into a quick right hand bank to turn around. I really hate having to "fly around" certain binding issues.

-Eric