newb question logictech lt2001T and lts-3100g

[questionmark]

Hi

Sorry if that has been already covered, I like to know roughtly what kind of performanceyou can have with the EP200 (belt) and this setup. I've try to setup the best I can the gyro but what ever I do I have a very little drift. I setup it as suggested in rate mode with MAX 30% gain, the tail holds but drift, moving servo for and aft can't get reed fully of the drift in rate mode at 30% gain. In TL same thing, when hovering it takes about #10 seconds to complete a quarter of a right turn, it is reasonable IMO...so the newb question, is that expected? or you should be able to really have a tail totaly lock wihtout drifting let say when hovering a full pack indoor?
There is bearly no tail vibration at 80% power the bat fin on the tail does not virbrate that much...
Also when flying outside an put in full power the heli pirouette quickly on the right...maybe to much pitch vs head spead, I reduced pitch but then still get that a bit, better but a bit...

When putting ruder right there is that limite to be set else binding with stock CF, getting the MH full tail case, slider etc, would it improve tail locking?

Thanks to tell me if setup can be improved or this is just as expected.

[rotorhead58d]

lots of stories like this. check everything out. belt tight, but not too tight. all screws tight? boom bent or dented? the slightest set up mistake can cause all kinds of problems. you'll figure it out.

[jimgrant]

Thats why I threw away my original gyro and tail servo... fitted a csm 420e and jr ds380g servo.. result, no further problems with tail.

[stoatnchips]

Not sure if this has been covered in detail on the 200 Forum yet but no worries, you could always watch the Finless Vid on the Hitec 5000 for more help. First off... where is the gyro mounted and which hole is the tail ball link on the servo horn? My first guess is the same as rotorheads... slipping belt. The other thing to look at is how well the servo mount is clamped onto the boom? Has it moved slightly since the set up in rate mode? I would fit the K&T boom clamps if you get the chance. You're not using any trim or subtrim are you... and what Radio are you using?
The only real way that a MH tail will imrove drift is if there are vibes in the stock tail, but a tighter tail will lock and stop better. Any other sources of vibration in the Heli? Main blades balanced etc?

[questionmark]

Hi EP200 freaks

Thanks for advice will look into it. I use FUTABA T6EX and no subtrim, gyro is on lower tray just under main shaft and use the logictech provided table, cable to the gyro are not tight, as adviced to no transmit vibration. Boom is not bent it is CF changed recently and virbration IMO are not that bad judging on the TAIL fin it shows as one and not two as it does sometimes due to to much vib.

Really the question is : I'm not unhappy about the setup, did recently hover it again and counted a solid 20Sec + for a quarter turn, the question is really can you really lock it totally if all is PERFECT for let say 5 minutes hovering indoor basically not using at all rudder? that is the real the newb. question for that setup : Yes or No ? basically it is about expectation that I don't know about...

If yes as you seem to imply in some of the answer I need to check further and will all the advice. Did see the logictech setup guide pdf also the 401 setup on EP200 I guess from Buzzkill but I can't get it fully perfect for some reason...that's the fun also in that hobby finding out.

Thanks!

[Jetleaf]

You speak of a vibration that's not to bad. Any vibration is bad on this heli. Get rid of the carbon fiber boom it's a pos.:BSS I chased vibrations till I could scream and it was all because of the carbon fiber boom. I know it looks great but it is very weak compared to the aluminum and everything gets worse with higher headspeeds. I have Logictech setups on both of my 200's and the tail is locked perfectly.

[GreenCello]

Assuming this is a new build with no crashes.
1. Check tail mechanism from servo to tail blades for slop. There should be only the slightest movement (<.5mm) when twisting the tail blades left and right.
2. Servo arm- I moved the ball to 8mm from the servo center and got better performance with the 3100
3. Gyro - Make sure you've got servo select correct. The first light should be on for the 3100. In rate mode increase the gain until you get tail wagging then reduce the gain until wag disappears.Using a DX7 I'm at 73 HH and 23 rate; I initially had the tail servo ball 10.5mm from center with 62 in HH and 30 something in rate; I had some drifting in hover and tail shifting right on hard climb.
Check gyro mounting and that gyro wires are free for a couple of cm and not bundled with any other wires (servo, esc, etc.)
4. Headspeed At least 80% or higher at mid stick will improve stability and tail authority.

If the above doesn't work I'm lost. I'm using the same gyro/servo and my tail is solid in hover and hard pitch change
Good Luck

[GreenCello]

You posted while I was writing my reply (I'm slow).
I think hovering for five minutes without moving the tail would be asking a lot just due to air currents but consistently drifting slowly to the right should be correctable.

[questionmark]

Thanks people,

Got it, I can I guess improve things, I have aluminium boom and will try...what is important for me to know is what to expect that the most difficult as I can't compare...From greencello it could be improved. Wish some of you could fly my bird and advice. Anyone from Holland close to Leiden ;-)?

Thanks!

[psindrup]

Try "teaching the gyro the receiver type" (described in the first part of the "manual") by holding the rudder stick fully to the left while powering up the heli.

It did the trick on mine

Peter

[questionmark]

Hey All

I guess success, Ok I changed the boom to aluminium an managed to introduce more vib. :-( than with CF) but I need to check the belt etc...I've seen post were people indeed mentioned that CF induce more vibration as aluminum so will take this advice from you experienced people and though luck for the blink factor my wallet ending beeing more happy with aluminium as I managed to break a CF boom already....

Then changed the ball link on the servo arm to the second hole from the center about 8mm and it improved slightly the drifting... by the way servo after # 5 min of hovering is not hot, I have 60% gain without wag.

Then RTFM ;-) setting the receiver type fixed the issue it seems, still had to use the trim on the rudder set to one postion to the right as it was very very slowly drifting, when setting the trim it started to drift slowly left then again right, all this very slowly but overall the direction is maintained, need to check my servo mount now...

Anyway many thanks to all of you for sound advice.

Last newb question :-) I did not manage to find a horn for the 3100 that feets exactly at 90 deg to the boom...it is close but far from beeing perfect...and I'm a bit maniac! and would not know what to do to correct this. I have Spekrtumg DSP60 and with it I can allways program the servo, but since 3100 is really made for the logictech does not make sense to change it to the DSP60 and waste of money, what are you doing if you can't align perfectly your horn? Be less maniac :-) ?

Many thanks again !

Cheers

[stoatnchips]

I'm sure others will say different but i would not worry too much about it being 90 degrees to start with as its the tail. Basically its important on cyclic/eCCPM to have it 90 as it produces a "mirror image" of pitch and cyclic controls between Regular and Inverted flight. If the Arm on 1 servo starts off 10 degrees out... but its compensated for by having a longer link then you start getting bad interactions due to tigonometry/meachanics of a rotating arm trying to move a link in a linear fashion.
In other words you need the relationship of positive pitch from mid stick to be exactly the same for negative pitch.... and the same pitch change for Left and Right Cyclic.
However, when it come to the tail, its not quite so crucial for the following reasons:
First moving the pich slider 2mm from the hover position in one direction does NOT produce the same force or Piro rate as moving the slider 2mm the other way!! Tail output force is NOT a linear relationship to slider position. Second and more importantly, your Gyro sorts this all out for you anyway... it moves the servo enough to produce the piro rate that you put in at the stick.
I'd advise sticking with the 3100 for now if this is the only reason you're thinking of Changing. IMHO, Within Reason, the tail servo does not need to be at exactly 90 degrees :thumbup:

[Jetleaf]

It's ok to use a little subtrim to get 90