CP Pro blade grips

[Dumb Thumbs]

I've replaced I don't know how many plastic blade grips on my CPP:arggg:
It's always the shaft that the mixer arm rides on that breaks off, look at it crosseyed & it'll snap off... As it happens the LHS is out of stock, so necessity being the mother of invention... I drilled & tapped a #6 X 32 hole where the stud was, CA'd a screw in place, cut it to the right length and fastened the mixer arm (without the brass sleave) on to it with a nut & lock tight. First test flight tomorrow, weather permitting, but if this works I'll try to get some small light nylon screws that will fit the brass bushings in the mixer arms (3 X 10mm).
P.S. I did consider aluminum blade grips, but the weak spot would be the same I think. Bend that & you are SOL & out about $30 insted of $10 for stock parts.

[mikescomputer]

Hey buddy, I've never talked to you before but I believe I have some answers for you. The Loc-Tite is what is causing the plastic to deteriorate in the tiny sleeve right where it forms a T. Loc-Tite should NEVER BE USED ON PLASTIC! Loc-Tite should never be used ANYWHERE on the head of this heli. Here is a picture I have that clearly shows the result. It shows that two fishing weights hung on the blade were not enough weight to move the blade. The blades should be free enough to almost move with a puff of air. The blades and paddles must be absolutely free in their cyclical motion or the bird will "hunt" for center. This is characterized by a "circular" flying motion seemingly of it's own accord, when in a hover in mode 1.
You must be careful when working on this head and blade grips because there are a lot of tiny Washers and Step Washers. Washers are SILVER. The Stepwashers are a dark color, almost black. Refer to the "exploded" view page 61 of manual. Parts 039 and 040. O-Rings, 038, are rubber. They fit inside the holes in the rotor head, # 034. This whole assembly must move absolutely freely with no binding what so ever. It is easy to over tighten the screws that go into the tiny tube on the side of the blade holders. This will cause binding. These screws DO NOT FIT TIGHT. If any Loc-Tite has come into contact with the BEARINGS, ANYWHERE IN THIS HEAD, they are ruined and will have to be replaced. One drop of Loc-Tite will sticky up any bearing. Period. Also, if you want a little looser action, try flipping the blade holders over and swapping them. This will put the nut on top. If you want to preserve these fragile balsa wood blades, "laminate" them with HEAVY grade {Walmart} BRAND NAME DUCK tape. The wide clear package sealing kind. Cut a full width strip the length of the blade, place the center of the sticky side of the tape right down the attack edge of the blade and fold over the edges. Trim with scissors. Blades last 9 times longer and will survive moderate ground strikes that would demolish a bare set of blades. I DO IT ON ALL MY HELIS! Hope this helps. Mike, Good Day!!

[Dumb Thumbs]

Mike, thank's for the feedback... Never used Loc-Tite on the mixer arm screws so that's not it, it's the crashing into the ground thing that's breaking the mixer arm post off the blade grips every time:roll: Sometimes it'll be a minor whoops, but the posts break very easily.
The only place I use LT on the head is on the blade grip bolts that go into the spindle shaft.
I made some test hovers in the back yard today (too windy to head to the field) and the grips I moded flew fine, just like stock ones. The true test will come after the first crash, that's when I'll know if the moded grips hold up better then stock ones.

[zen]

...it's the crashing into the ground thing that's breaking the mixer arm post off the blade grips every time:

Sure. That'll do it. The heli eating ground monster. Good fix you've come up with.