Swift16 with 1907H/2Y ?

[Speedbmp1]

Has anyone had good success with this motor from NueMotors? I'm interested in the flight times, headspeed, Battery, Speed control, and pinion size that people are running.

I think the Century 600+ 1100kV motor that I currently have is starting to go. It always seems to run very hot.

[RAV50]

Hmmm....my 600+ is always relatively cool (can barely feel any temp with finger touching) after a hard 3D run...My 1907/1.5 ran a lot hotter. So maybe it is something else causing the hot 600+

Give us more info and maybe we can help:

What battery packs?
What pinion?
What ESC?
What Blades?

Even with 560mm blades both my ESC and 600+ is finger touch warm (barely feel nay temp....but the 6S/5000 TP battery packs are always a LOT hotter.

[Speedbmp1]

I'm running the standard stuff. 9 tooth pinion, century 80/100 ESC, 550 sab blades, and a couple different battery packs: FP3700, TP4450, Zippy 3700 & 5000. All 6s batts.
I tried running gov mode on the ESC, and it seemed to run hotter. Could not touch without burning my fingure. Tried v curves, Including different curves from 80% to 90%. And 100% straight accross. Seemed alittile cooler but not by much. ESC temp around 115. Battery Tempe around 105. Motor was around 150.

My blade pitch is set 10, -10.

Thanks for helping.

Carl

[GyroAl]

Sounds like a similar set-up to mine - also on 6 cells. But I do prefer the RT515 blades for 3D. They are a much lighter load on the power system then some 550's and 560's.

I run the ESC with 100/95/90/95/100 in both gov. and stadard mode - not much difference.

I have also found that if the belt is too tight or the pinion set too tight the current drain (power required) increases substantially - more heat.

[Speedbmp1]

I'm pretty sure the gear mesh and belt are good. Nothing is very tight. I have over 200 flights on the bird. It seemed to start getting hot around 20 or so flights ago. I'm kinda of at a stand still. I did notice my last flight this weekend I lost deadspeed for a brief moment, maybe 2-3 seconds., them it was normal the rest of the flight. I'll fly her this comming weekend and find out some more. I'm still leaning towarda the motor going bad. Unless the esc is cutting out.?

[GyroAl]

"Over 200 flights - only started to run hot 20 or so flights ago."

Sounds like maybe the bearings in the motor may need replacing.

[Speedbmp1]

that's what I thought. I have taken the motorout and inspected the bearings. Still rolling smooths with no notchiness. I'm at a loss.

[RAV50]

Worn bearings may feel fine at the speeds you turn the shaft by hand, on the bench, but as they heat up at high rpm (in this case about 25,000!!) they may then start to bind or float, and not roll freely.

[Speedbmp1]

It sounds like I need a new motor. So back to my original question or any other motor choices to chose from.

[Speedbmp1]

So I went flying today. First two packs were good. Battery temps kinda high 140*, so was the motor. ESC was cool to the touch. So I flew my third pack, nothing to intensive, just a loop and roll here and their. As I was going at a pretty good clip in fff, the motor just quit. Lost all hearspeed and down she went. Crash damage was not to bad. Suspect mainshaft and feathering shaft. Has a slight virlbration along with the tracking beaing off. Motor temps were high. I could not even touch it. So definitly need a new motor. It did work after I let it cool. But now I don't trust it. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Carl

[GyroAl]

Your motor (bearings?) was talking to you (noise). so a good lesson to learn is to listen when shuch "talking" is happening and rectify the situation before any more flights.

So unless you can replace the bearings (or whatever is is making the noise and creating the heat), I would not trust it either.

[Speedbmp1]

I don't think it is the bearings at all. They are very smooth. What I did find out after taking the motor apart again to inspect the bearings, was the main mounting base. The stator which mounts or wedged into the shaft of the mounting base is moving. Looks like whatever held the stator in place has let loose, causing the timing to be off which more than likely overheated the motor.
I'm thinking maybe I can glue it back on some how or just replace the motor if that does not work. Just sucks that this had to happen on a long weekend coming up. Really wanted to get some flight time in this weekend.

[aramsdell]

Probably not a good idea.... Ihave a century 550 that came with the ARF Swift 16 and the same happened to it. No damage as I was hovering at 3 feet. There doesn't seem to be a good way to save it. It looks to be a press fit. Glue doesn't sound good. Losing your motor at the most inopportune time would really (draw breath hard). Monetary loss aside, what would you think if you had an accident with property damage or injury after this????
I WON'T use mine unless it can be rebuilt for NOTHING by Centyury.

[Speedbmp1]

That's what I was thinking, but wanted to confirm before i even tried it. Any suggestions for a new motor. Kinda want to stay away from Century motor unless its the only option.

[grwarlock]

Ok, there is a problem with there 550 motor, seems they have a bad batch where the stator loosens. Happened to mine but was lucky was only a foot off the ground, got the ESC also.

If you call them they are aware of this problem and will replace them if still under warrenty.

Just got mine back today. I plan on going over the stator closely to see if any thing is loose or could loosen before I place it back on my heli.

Hope this help you guys out who are having 550 motor issues.

The 600+ is rock solid and seems not to have this issue. Might want to check out NEU motors, I here they really preform well, just remember the stock ESC may not be able to handle the current needed.

[aramsdell]

When I change motors ,have a 2 helis with 600+ motors, I am thinking of goin to a lower KV so I have more options with pinions/bats. I tried using the Cenutry 8 tooth pinions with 550 blades with the 600+ and 6S packs.. I broke at least 3 pinions. I had a photo with 3 of them lined up. they all snapped the same way. Chewed up the main gear each time.

[Speedbmp1]

I am interested in the NeuMotors, but confused on which one to get. Maybe the 1907/H2Y or 1907/1.5Y. Just not sure because the motor RPM. I thought that it has to be gear for almost maximum rpm. Using a 6s batter only makes it in the middle of the rpm band according to the headspeed calculators. With the 1907H/2Y u have to use a 14t pinion just to get 2000 on the head. Any pinion lower and the headspeed drops a lot. Help on decision!!!

Thank you

Carl

[GyroAl]

When I got my first Swift 16, I was going to get it with their first 600 (with the black outer casing), but I had heard they had a problem also. So I initially used the Neu 1907/1.5, but it ran very hot from the beginning on the 6 cells I use. So I pulled it and installed their newly released 600+ (silver casing). I now have 303 flights on it now, and it is still runninbg well and very cool.

I also understand that due the heat problems experienced with many and the initial Neu 1907/1.5's, they introduced the current one that has a cooling fan. So you might have better experiences with it then I had with mine. But I am very happy with my 600+ and after 300 plus flights I do not think it owes me anything so if/when it does finally go south, I will probably replace it with another.

Note: I have edited my earlier post re: the "talking to you".

[Speedbmp1]

Ok, I've decided on getting a Scorpion HK-4025-890kv motor. Hopefully I've made the right decision. I see how this combo will fly. Also planning on CC 85HV ESC.

[Speedbmp1]

I've changed my mind ajd went with the century 650+ 800kv motor. This way I cane use my century ESC. Just waiting on Heli-world to get in 12t & 13t pinion gears to bring the HS to 2000 RPM.

[RAV50]

I have two Swift 16's and a Swift 550SE - all using the current 600+ motors and have been very happy with them.

After seeing a number of videos of their larger Swift 620SE on youtube and the flights at IRCHA, I have been seriously eying the 620SE on 8S or 10S battery packs - probably 10S ,as I have a number of 5S packs that I have been using on one of the Swift 16s.

As I was so happy with my 600+'s, I planned on using one of these 650's on it. Looking forward to your report on the motors....how do they fit in the smaller Swift as they are bigger then the 600+.

[Speedbmp1]

I have two Swift 16's and a Swift 550SE - all using the current 600+ motors and have been very happy with them.

After seeing a number of videos of their larger Swift 620SE on youtube and the flights at IRCHA, I have been seriously eying the 620SE on 8S or 10S battery packs - probably 10S ,as I have a number of 5S packs that I have been using on one of the Swift 16s.

As I was so happy with my 600+'s, I planned on using one of these 650's on it. Looking forward to your report on the motors....how do they fit in the smaller Swift as they are bigger then the 600+.
As I was so happy with my 600+'s, I planned on using one of these 650's on it. Looking forward to your report on the motors....how do they fit in the smaller Swift as they are bigger then the 600+.

RAV50,

The 650+ motor fits like a glove. The can is 49mm in diameter. Space between frames is 53mm. So its got plenty of room and it bolts right up. Just waiting on getting my 13t pinion so I can crank up the headspeed to 2000k. Right now its 1800RPM w/ 11t pinion and flys more scale like. You have to fly through manuvers get it do anything. The clime out rate is horrible. But until I get the right pinion I can't really judge this motor.

Oh, by the way, everything is running so much cooler. Just barely warm to the touch on all electronics. I've never had this before with the 600+ motor. Can't wait for this weedend!!