Configuring Raptor 50 for 3D

[Jay Mowl]

Have the green paddles, red dampers, now do I trust the linkage positions lengths and throws of the manual :?: Just have the stock header tank and TT Carbon Graphite blades with the O.S. Hyper 50. Whould you suggest anything else :?:

[TerryBelanger]

I would run a metal headblock and one of the dampner solutions from either carbon extreme, infavation, or gohbee. The plastic headblock will hold up for a few flights but will loosen up drastically after that. Also the red dampners are lasting long with anything more than +-11 deg of Collective and 7 Deg of cyclic. anything more any you'll be replacing them after 3 or 4 flights.

Of coarse this is all taking into account your pounding the living daylights out of the machine. If you are not then the plastic head and red dampners should be fine.

[Jay Mowl]

Which Metal head? Top dragon, Mavrikk or other? No, I won't be pounding the machine for awhile yet but I'll get better as gallons go bye I hope!

[TerryBelanger]

We use the Quick UK blocks. They are more expensive than the Thunder Tiger blocks. We have never had anyproblems with the Quick UK blocks. The Thunder TIger blocks and the Maverik blocks wore quicker but are cheaper. I would stay away from the Top Dragon.

so in order of preference

Quick UK
Maverik
Thunder Tiger
Plastic Head Block
Top Dragon


Or you can stick with the plastic block spend money on fuel and then buy the metal one when you start to wear out the plastic one.

[Jay Mowl]

Where can I find that head?

[TerryBelanger]

QuickUK can be gotten at Quick UK (They have a banner on the main page (Make sure you tell them you saw the ad on Helifreak))

The maverik and Thunder Tiger heads can be found at Heliproz,Only Raptors or Ricks. They also have banners on the main page!

[Jay Mowl]

There stuff is pretty pricey! It's funny, The guys at helipros swear by the Top Dragon head on the 90. I guess I should just stick with the stock stuff untill I cand start doing real 3D stuff, All I can do now is flips rolls and loops!

[TerryBelanger]

I would

Stay with the stock parts until they start wearin out to quick. By then you might be ready for a bigger bird.

:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

Keep in mind I can give you an opinion that's not based on what I want to sell you today!

No hard feelins towards anyone, just the facts.

[wtr]

Jay,

i've been flying mine all stock with red dampeners and TTgreenies and it all
seems to hold up pretty nicely with some smalltime 3d.

The only thing that is very! sloppy is the washout-slider. It almost sits loose around
the shaft. That's the first parts that needs an upgrade on my heli.

[Haymar]

Hi everybody, I have one problem in my Raptor 50. I can't fly in mode stockl the rotor head, I'm invert the main rotor grip like the Raptor 60/90, because flooter (the blades couse more vibrations). In my heli i'm use the methal headeblock, red dumpers and carbon blades.

Anyone have this problem:

Thanks for all
Good fly

[TerryBelanger]

The V1's had really bad flutter problems. They fixed it with the V2 head. Which head are you running V1 or V2?

[Haymar]

My Raptor 50 is V2, but I' have this problem (flutter) like raptor v1. When i invert the meain rotor grip, I fly no problem.
I think this problem is the metal headerblock, it is horiginal thunther tiger.

[flyinfool]

Another great upgrade for when you get to fast backwards flight or long tail slides is the Gohbee Tail Speedup gear (http://www.gohbee.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=50139&Category_Code=1100).
The stock tail ratio is 4.44 and this all metal gear will raise the tail ratio to 5.0.
This will allow a 401 to have the tail holding power of a 611 w/stock gears.
This Gohbee gear is a drop-in replacement for a Raptor or Stinger, 30/50 plastic gear.

[R-4-L]

whatever you do Never buy the topdragon head.. it doesn't fit nicely so it'll shake like crasy and topdragon dampeners lasted only 5 flights before puking out the o-rings.. this is my experiance with them. :arggg:

[playfair]

"...do I trust the linkage positions lengths and throws of the manual"

You have actually CHECKED pitches and throws, right? I know my bird didn't end up like the manual, especially because I wanted 14deg of pos pitch in throttle hold.

The red rubbers in the stock plastic head work fine. The "failure" point will be the head starts wobbling on the MR shaft, but I always wick in some thin CA upon assembly once that started happening.
I now have the TT metal head and it IS more solid, but I wouldn't rush it.

Last year Alan Jr. flew my night rig and let it rip pretty good. Afterwards he noticed I had a plastic head and said he was amazed it held up, but it surely didn't effect things too bad.

[rond]

"You have actually CHECKED pitches and throws, right? I know my bird didn't end up like the manual, especially because I wanted 14deg of pos pitch in throttle hold."

What could you possibly want 14 degrees for???? Seriously, you can't turn 14 degrees of pitch with a pipe wrench. You'll notice if you watch experienced guys do autos, they usually touch down just a little above mid stick. Maybe 10 degrees, for just a second at the end of an auto, but you really get nothing from that than just a fraction of a second and not really much lift....read what Curtis Youngblood has to say about this topic...you'll find it very interesitng....I know I did :) :)

Ron

[megotroulette]

i would suggest, Os hyper a mp2, metal headblock, and invert the blade grips..

my setup is green paddles stock muffler, os 50 hyper, carbontech blades red dampners stock head, and i do hard 3d with it, i mean hard...

but i will deffinetly be getting a metal headblock.. and i am now saving up for the Thunder power raptor electric conversion kit..

Cheers,