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JStilt
09-29-2008, 10:43 PM
so I was wondering if any one else has moved there servo arm out to the third hole. I have it in the 2nd and when flying today I was wanting more action from the swash and wasn't getting it. I decided to get tricky and go all the way out to the 4th hole but after testing it I relized I moved the arm to much causing the plastic arm on the swash to bend, so I moved it back to the 3rd hole. I will try and fly more tomorrow to see if action is any better.

benzee1
10-01-2008, 12:01 PM
I run mine on the outermost holes. You gotta be careful because as you move your links out, you increase chances of blade strikes. The first time I moved mine out, I was flying outside, did a fast maneuver and I heard "CLACK" and the heli dropped like a brick!

If you don't have extended shafts, I would get them. The easiest way is this product http://cgi.ebay.com/Helitek-Super-Shaft-2-0-upgrade-CX-CX2-V3-V4_W0QQitemZ270279272212QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item27 0279272212&_trkparms=72%3A1205|39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A12|240%3A13 18&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Helitek-Super-Shaft-2-0-upgrade-CX-CX2-V3-V4_W0QQitemZ270279272212QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item27 0279272212&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C 240%3A1318&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14).

Also, if you want the heli to be more responsive, buy a set of Trex 450 weights ($), cut your flybar just behind the current weights and put the trex ones on. View my photos to see what it looks like.

JStilt
10-01-2008, 04:28 PM
thanks for the link. I am running the rivesud V3 extended shafts but have mixed feelings about them. you have to use the stock swash becasue they lowered the lower head and the cnc swash is thicker and hits the collar on the shaft.

I got to fly for alittle bit yesterday with the links in the 3rd hole, alittle better but still not enough for my liking. I haven't had any blade strikes since installing the V3 but.........when my dad was flying it yesterday he had a blade strike, I was like what the hell. needless to say it fell about 50ft to the ground and busted it up pretty good. what i'm most upset about is that it broke my carbon flybar. I don't want to drop another $20 on a stupid flybar so I guess it's back to metal. speaking of flybar, did you cut just behind the wieghts on a stock flybar or an already short one? I have better wieghts that came with the rivesud flybar, not sure if there the same as the 450. are heavier wirghts going to give me more action?

benzee1
10-01-2008, 06:09 PM
I cut about 1/8" behind my stocks. A heavier weight will make the heli more stable, but less responsive. The Trex 450 weights are slightly lighter than the stock ones.

A shorter flybar will also make the heli more responsive. You can start with the weights out, then adjust them in as you want more responsiveness. Once the weights go in too far, heli will fly like crap. So they can't go in too far.

BTW, That link I gave you, you'll have to use the stock outer shaft with it.

VNAMUS
10-03-2008, 01:09 PM
I moved mine to the third hole and had a blade strike. Back to the second hole for me.

benzee1
10-03-2008, 01:15 PM
Extend your shafts. The link above is the cheapest and easiest way to do it. The company that sells it on ebay also has a kit with shaft and flybar for about $16. If you do the extended shaft and move your links out, and shorten your flybar, it'll be like a whole new heli. Very cheap and easy mods.

dilipc
10-03-2008, 11:11 PM
I bought some stuff from Rivesud - must say I'm very unhappy about the quality. They convinced me to blow up about $70 by saying their parts will keep the heli light as opposed to aluminum parts. But IMO Rivesud parts are of very poor quality. Their carbon boom is such a clumsy part to put on. Instructions are almost non-existent. Like Jstilt has said above, their other stuff is also no good.
I had to dish out another $100 and upgraded my CX2 with aluminum parts from Jamie.

benzee1
10-04-2008, 12:46 AM
I've heard some people like their stuff, I've heard some say it's crap. I don't really know myself though. Not gonna spend $70+ to find out. You can do homemade mods too. It's fun if you like to create stuff from scratch. I've done homemade extended inner and outer shafts. I bought the extended innershaft from ebay to see if my head wobble would go away. It didn't. I also have blade grips for another heli on my cx2. From the Venom series. Ocean rescue I think. Needed shims (washers) to make it fit. No more broken upper blades.

JStilt
10-04-2008, 01:34 AM
I bought some stuff from Rivesud - must say I'm very unhappy about the quality. They convinced me to blow up about $70 by saying their parts will keep the heli light as opposed to aluminum parts. But IMO Rivesud parts are of very poor quality. Their carbon boom is such a clumsy part to put on. Instructions are almost non-existent. Like Jstilt has said above, their other stuff is also no good.
I had to dish out another $100 and upgraded my CX2 with aluminum parts from Jamie.


Im going to have to agree with everything you just said. I wish i had done more research then I did. I would have defintley gone a different rout. as far as the tail boom I can't say it's crappy because I havent had another brand to compare it too. it does vibrate alot but maybe thats normal. I would defintley like a tail boom that mounts different, the rivesud one is really woobbly were it connects.

I'm trying some new blades, some brand my LHS had. they seem pretty durable but don't have near the lift my extreme blades have. I also try this flybar mod that I read about over at RCuniverse. you basically put a carbon shaft over the metal rod and then add your wieghts. seemed like a cool idea and the guy that made this mod says his heli flys like a dream. not so much for me, add the extra mass your puching through the air plus the blades I'm trying have weak lift, it seemed like it took over 1/2 stick before lift off, plus it has weak response when it comes to lift when your already in the air. needles to say I went back to just the meatl rod. the worst part is it doesn't fly as good as it did with the carbon bar. I think I'm going to buy the goldslinger flybar and see how that works.

as far as other stuff I would like to see how it flys with the extreme tail boom, I like how it mounts and doesn't put any stress on the servo case. alot of people talk about wieght but it's not like were stunting these things. I am only doing basic flight with some FFF once in awhile.

TowPilot
10-04-2008, 03:59 PM
The Rivesud outer shafts prior to Version 3 bent like butter.

I like the BoomTown version of the carbon rod tail. Easy to install, stable, easy to remove to service the heli.

JJ's Hanger
10-05-2008, 09:10 AM
Extend your shafts. The link above is the cheapest and easiest way to do it. The company that sells it on ebay also has a kit with shaft and flybar for about $16. If you do the extended shaft and move your links out, and shorten your flybar, it'll be like a whole new heli. Very cheap and easy mods.
If you shorten the flybar, put on the lighter weights and don't extend the shaft or go to the third hole will you still get better responsiveness? (I tend to take the conservative approach to things and want to avoid blade strick at higher altitudes).

benzee1
10-05-2008, 11:02 AM
You will get better responsiveness, but you will probably get blade strikes. What happens is when heli is moving in a particular direction and you change direction quickly, the blades flex as the copter moves and they strike each other. I understand the physics pretty well, but can't explain really well LOL.

Move your arms out and try it. I went from inner hole to middle to outer. The middle hole I used it for a day. It may be ok for you. That's one of the great things about the CX2, you can try stuff to your hearts content.

JJ's Hanger
10-05-2008, 02:17 PM
Thanks for the advice. Sounds like the reality is that extending the shaft is worth it to lessen the chance of blade strikes if I plan to modify the handling. I did have one strike already even with the stock setup. At first I didn't know why it dropped out of the sky but when I looked at the broken blades and read about strikes it made sense. I think that one was due to a little wind gust combined with a quick direction change that smacked the blades together.

benzee1
10-05-2008, 02:24 PM
That would do it. It'll be amplified with the arms out more.

JStilt
10-05-2008, 06:28 PM
moving the arms out deffintley makes it more sensitive. I moved mine out all the way because I want to be sensitive like my dads b400, I think having them in on the 1st or 2nd hole is better if your just learning how to fly but when you get comfortable enough move them out, it's a whole new challenge to fly.

TowPilot
10-07-2008, 01:58 PM
The stock blades flex VERY easily when moving the sticks.

Blades that are used with blade grips flex far less.

That is a key advantage to changing over to blade grips.

teshreve
10-09-2008, 01:33 AM
Even in the 3rd hole out you will bind the swash before full throw, so going any further out is pointless. The swash binds far earlier than you think and the effects are fairly big when only one set of blades binds.

1) Bindage
2) Causes rotation
3) Gyro compensates by giving less power to other set of blades

At the very least you will lose altitude. At the worst, an oscillation will occur, creating all kinds of problems such as blade strikes.

Probably the best setup is 2nd hole out with stock radio or 3rd hole with a radio that can set endpoints, such as a DX6i or DX7.

dilipc
10-09-2008, 02:59 AM
Endpoints? I have a DX6i (since yesterday) and would be grateful to be educated.

Miller time
10-09-2008, 08:47 AM
The endpoint adjustment is on the transmitter, in short it allows you to set how far the servo arm will travel when your transmitter is full throw in that direction. There should be full details on it including how to set it in your transmitter manual - I don't have that model but I do own other Spektrums and their documentation is generally well done.

What teshreveis saying is that by setting the linkage on the third hole, the servo arm will travel beyond the point where the swash is at full travel, causing it to bind. If you use a radio with adjustable endpoints you can move the linkage to the third hole then reduce your endpoint adjust for that channel so that full throw on your control stick equals a point just before the swash binds. This way you get the full potential action without the added problems cause by one set of blades meeting resistance while the other spins freely.

benzee1
10-09-2008, 10:47 AM
Funny, I do not have any binding on mine.

JStilt
10-09-2008, 02:23 PM
no binding here either.

teshreve
10-10-2008, 12:37 AM
I am not saying I don't believe you because that would be rather presumptuous.
... but I have owned several CX2s in a ridiculous number of configurations over the last few years and all of mine bind the swash on the outer hole. Some do it really bad, some not so bad, but they have all done it. Although I cannot speak for the plastic swash as that went away long before I started tweaking and understanding how stuff worked.
The best way to check binding is to remove the motor that drives the outer shaft, but other wise leave the heli built. Remove the blades, spin the outer shaft with the electronics on and then throw the sticks full travel. You will see the binding really easily because the shaft will stop spinning at the slightest bind.

JStilt
10-10-2008, 01:17 AM
I am running the rivesud V3 shafts and the only binding I have had was when I ran the cnc eflite swash, because they lower the lower head and it sits really close to the set screw collar. I had to go back to the stock swash becasue it gives me just enough clearnace between the too not to bind. the stock swash does max out using the 4th hole, but because the arms on the swash are plastic the servos just bends the alittle. I would like to go back to using the cnc swash, I feel like I get better response. I think I'm either going drill new holes in the rivesud shaft or get the inner extened shaft that benz gave me a link to.

benzee1
10-15-2008, 11:05 PM
teshreve (http://www.helifreak.com/member.php?u=31432), Just wanted to tell you that I checked my cx2 and YES, IT BINDS. I started turning lower head by hand and as I moved my stick forward (or bkwd, side) just before I got to the end of travel, I could fell it binding. I never noticed it in flight or by eyeballing it.

You were right :noteworthy

teshreve
10-15-2008, 11:20 PM
Excellent.
I never noticed it in flight either, but it bothered me. I can only guess what the effect might be of the binding. It likely shows up in an unpredictable way anyways, but I bet it is making a difference. Perhaps it shows up in being able to make large banked circles one way better than the other?