View Full Version : Raptor 30 clutch
Raptordude
05-17-2004, 02:26 PM
Ok I am trying to replace my R30 V1 clutch with a Revolution Heavy Duty clutch, and a new liner in the clutch bell. How do you get the liner out to replace with a new one? How do you attach the new one? Ther eis no adhesive on the liner at this time.
Do the Heavy duty clutchs work better? I am replacing mine because when I go to do a auto, it seems like the clutch stays engaged even if motor is at idle. So the blades are keeping the motor going. Also normal decents are getting difficult being that the cluth is wanting to stay engaged and take longer to loose head speed. This is jsut what I am guessing. Also after I shoot the auto, and get ready to lift off after coming out of th. hold, the motor bogs very bad, like its super rich and trying to spin the blades but the clutch is bogging it down. Does this sound like a clutch problem? IT still does it even if I try leaning out the bottom end.
Oh well I am going to try a new clutch anyways, so how do I mount this bad boy? Thanks for your help!
WillJames
05-17-2004, 03:00 PM
I'll take a stab at this one James.
I think R30 clutch bells come with a liner installed when new like the 60 clutch bells do (the 90's Don't). I use an Xacto to cut them out, then use epoxy to glue them back in very carefully after cleanup with alcohol. The Blue HD liners definitely work longer then the dark colored ones.
The problem with your clutch dragging sounds like a broken clutch. Look for cracks where the shoes meet the clutch body and it is really thin there. You can also squeeze the clutch in your hand when it is removed and if one side of it is broken you can tell easily when squeezing it. Would this be bad like you mention in your autos, could be.
The bog on spool-up after an auto sounds like engine tuning, but you know I have to get Shannon or Clint to tune my motors for me, so I can't help much with this one.
Nice meeting and flying with you at the Invasion!!
Raptordude
05-17-2004, 03:21 PM
Thanks man, Well I got the old liner out, cleaned it up, and did a trial fit with the new Revolution HD clutch and its bigger. So it wont fit. Do the 90's not use a clutch lining at all? Are .50 and .30 clutches different? Maybe I will just put a new liner in it, squeeze the clutch a little and try the old one squeezed tighter.
capebob
05-17-2004, 03:24 PM
The clutch is easily replaced, the liner not so. I'm guessing you don't have a metal lathe so you will have to remove the liner the hard way. Get a hobby knife with a # 11 blade, that's the blade that comes with most of them, and carefully slide the blade under the liner and slowly work the old liner free. The stock liner is installed with epoxy glue and isn't too hard to remove. Remove all the dried epoxy that doesn't come out with the liner. The V1 clutch system is notoriously bad no matter who's clutch you are using. You can expect that your Revolution clutch will outlast the stock clutch, but don't expect much more than a season unless you are very careful about installing the liner. Without a lathe, here's what I recommend:
1. Get some J.B. Weld. It's a very strong sticky epoxy and it can be found at auto parts stores. Don't get the fast drying you will need the time.
2. Cut some plastic electrical tape the width of the clutch and wrap two turns of the tape around the edge of the clutch. This will give you a good clutch to liner clearance.
3. Pre-fit you liner making sure you have a little gap between the edges, about .5mm is OK.
4. Coat the area of the clutch bell with J.B. Weld that will contact the liner and press in the liner.
5. Here is the hard part. You want enough glue to do the job but not enough thats going to slop out and get on the top of the bell. If you do, you will permanently glue your clutch to the bell. Not good. OK, after you press in the liner push the clutch with the electrical tape into the bell and let sit for a few minutes. Then remover the clutch and clean any glue off the clutch and the surface of the bell. Once you are sure you are not going to permanently glue your clutch to the bell put the clutch back in the bell and let cure. After it's cured remove the clutch and remove tape from the clutch. Then install the clutch on the engine, the bell to the helicopter and so on.
I hope this helps,
Bob
capebob
05-17-2004, 03:27 PM
James,
While I was typing and I missed your last post. Your new clutch is probably a V2 clutch which is larger. I wouldn't recommend trying to squeeze your clutch because it is sure to fail on you next flight.
capebob
05-17-2004, 03:30 PM
James,
Since you have the V2 clutch I recommend that you convert you helicopter to the V2 clutch system. I will scrounge up my list of required parts and post it in a few minutes.
Bob
capebob
05-17-2004, 03:36 PM
James,
You have the clutch. The other parts required are:
1.PV0358 Clutch Bell a liner comes with the bell, I think.
2.PV0360 Starter Shaft
3.PV0361 Starter Coupling
4.PV0367 Pinion Gear 9 tooth.
5.PV0203 Starter Shaft Bearing d6cD15xW5
Bob
jhodges
05-17-2004, 03:49 PM
James .... just convert it to a .50 ;)
Raptordude
05-17-2004, 03:58 PM
Johnny- yeah, well I jsut got off the phone with Thunder Tiger, I will be a dealer for them by the end of the week. That means .50 conversion time is not too far away! LOL
WillJames
05-17-2004, 04:02 PM
Why didn't I ever think of that. :D Save on parts cost, become a dealer. :lolol
Raptordude
05-17-2004, 10:16 PM
Yeah its like the only dealership I dont have for our hobby shop, its like the most important one, LOL
Thanks for yoru help gusy. For future reference the Revolution clutch must be used with the revolution clutch bell.
Raptordude
05-25-2004, 12:50 PM
ok I have run into a problem I think. I am putting a V2 clutch on, so I have to go to a V2 starter shaft. That means changing top starter shaft bearing. The v1 is a 5x16x5 the v2 is a 6x15x5. So thats menas the V2 top bearing wont fit properly right? The Clutch bell bearing is a 6x12x4 on a v2 opposed to a 5x11x5 on a V1. So I have to go to the other size starter shaft. What to do? I am confused.
capebob
05-25-2004, 04:28 PM
James, it's easy. Just go to Boca bearings and order a 6x15x5. That's the only bearing you will have to change.
http://www.bocabearing.com/
They have this part number on sale for $4.50
MR696-ZZB -33
Bob
alexander
05-27-2004, 08:49 PM
James, it's easy. Just go to Boca bearings and order a 6x15x5. That's the only bearing you will have to change.
http://www.bocabearing.com/
They have this part number on sale for $4.50
MR696-ZZB -33
Bob
"The v1 is a 5x16x5 the v2 is a 6x15x5. So thats menas the V2 top bearing wont fit properly right? "
Exactly...the 15mm OD fits the V-2 frames and the 16mm OD fits the V-1.
I have not been able to find a 6 X 16 X 5mm bearing to fit the V-2 start shaft system into a V-1 frame. Here is one though from Boca: 6x16x5 MR616-2RS-29
stephen