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Old 02-21-2010, 07:05 PM   #1
All Thumbs
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Default OS 55 worth the extra money

Getting ready to hit the add too cart button. I've got it norrowed down to Trex 600 nitro pro, or Velocity 50, OS 50 or 55 motor...... I'm only one year into this habit,this will be my first nitro....So far Align has been my drug of choice but the Velocity looks great and maybe it's time for a change.. If anyone has used both the 55 and the 50 motor please let me know if it's worth the hundred bucks or so for the extra, (3D is in my near future i hope, not there yet) Thanks for any advice>>>NOT TRYING TO START A WAR !!!
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Old 02-21-2010, 07:17 PM   #2
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the lhs carries both and the outrage is so sick looking man its so nice. Looks really wel build and is just very sturdy. it is great align is alwasyg ood and i never flown either but i hear the outrage is all the rage lol... Really thou they love it at the lhs i think its my next heli and first nitro actually
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Old 02-21-2010, 07:22 PM   #3
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Default Re: OS 55 worth the extra money

It was worth the extra cost to me. I only fly sport, but it allows me to run 20% nitro and get the power of 30%. The biggest advantage is a mid range that isn't too lean, as it tends to be on the OS 50.
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Old 02-21-2010, 08:00 PM   #4
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Default Like i said 1st nitro ?

I don't under stand why mid range would be important ? Don't you fly nitros at 90% and 100 % in stunt same as electric helis??
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Old 02-21-2010, 08:09 PM   #5
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Velocity does look nice. Yet to see one in person. Align is about all that i see here, might have to be a trend setter.
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Old 02-21-2010, 08:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by All Thumbs View Post
I don't under stand why mid range would be important ? Don't you fly nitros at 90% and 100 % in stunt same as electric helis??
Not unless you want to blow a motor or sling a blade. The idea is to keep the headspeed somewhat constant. An idle up curve is approximately 100-50-100. There is some variation due to pitch and engine selection, but this gets it in the ballpark. Hovering takes place at about 60%, give or take.
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Old 02-22-2010, 09:45 AM   #7
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Not unless you want to blow a motor or sling a blade. The idea is to keep the headspeed somewhat constant. An idle up curve is approximately 100-50-100. There is some variation due to pitch and engine selection, but this gets it in the ballpark. Hovering takes place at about 60%, give or take.
I always thought the mid-range of an engine is the operating rpm not the throttle opening pertentage.
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Old 02-22-2010, 09:52 AM   #8
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My understanding is that midrange is just that, not WOT, and not idle. Its possible to load the head sufficiently at full throttle and still maintain 1800rpm headspeed, but that does not mean your running in the "midrange"
its usually defined as being somewhere between 30 and 70% throttle, under a normal load.
Most peeps use the term to describe a mixture setting, such as idle (low end), midrange, and high.
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Old 02-21-2010, 08:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
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I don't under stand why mid range would be important ? Don't you fly nitros at 90% and 100 % in stunt same as electric helis??
OS 50's have a hard time spooling up. The new 55 with 3 needles solves this
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Old 02-21-2010, 08:46 PM   #10
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Default New to nitro

Didn,t know throtle curve came down to 50 in idle up. understand why you need midrange now. plus the extra adjustments would be nice . thanks
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Old 02-21-2010, 09:07 PM   #11
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Didn,t know throtle curve came down to 50 in idle up. understand why you need midrange now. plus the extra adjustments would be nice . thanks

it doesnt with a good govener

ive seen that curve more often with a 90 then a 50. i believe a 50 will over rev much more then a 90.
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Old 02-21-2010, 09:16 PM   #12
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Didn,t know throtle curve came down to 50 in idle up. understand why you need midrange now. plus the extra adjustments would be nice . thanks
I love the 50. For 1950 headspeed (which is all a Vibe needs) my curve is about 100-62-46-62-100. No issues with lean running on the mid, but the low is a bit rich which makes cold starts a little bit difficult to keep running... not worth the extra $120-$140 to fix it, IMHO... unless you really want to use the extra power.
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