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| Blade 450X Blade 450X Helicopters Information and Help |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: San Diego, California
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Hey everybody!!
If any of you have done unique things or performed settings/upgrades on your Blade 450 X, feel free to share here! This is the thread to post on if you have done something out of the ordinary with your 450X and would like to share it with others. I am very excited to see what all of you have done to your 450X that improves it's flying capability and/or style! (i.e. Transmitter settings, parameter settings, upgrades, etc.) Shortly, I will begin to post my own upgrades as well as setups that have been fairing well while using the Dx7s and Dx8. I'll include parameter settings, mechanical settings, (Upgrades) and little tips and tricks to get the most out of your heli. Stay Classy San Diego! Last edited by BigEast; 03-18-2012 at 07:57 PM.. Reason: Clarification |
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#2 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sandy, Oregon
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Hi,
Mechanics are ether right or wrong on a flybarless heli so no magic there. The cool thing about the BeastX unit installed is the different flight modes if your not comfortable making them from the TX. So realy you need to just see what works well for you. Myself I keep the Beastx in TX mode and use my Tx to adjust flight controls. I use 100% travel, 100% throttle curve, 100% DR and 15 expo. So basically as fast and responsive as it can. There are additional setting within the Beast but I have not found a need to make any changes yet.
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Goblin 700 - XF495 KDE - HC3SX - CC160 Trex 700 - 700 MX - HC3SX - CC120 Blade 450X - Scorpion 2221-6 - CC 50 Blade 130x - HP08 - CC ( many others ) |
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#3 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sandy, Oregon
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If your just learning the beast has a trainer flight mode, cant remember what they call it but it makes it very docile
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Goblin 700 - XF495 KDE - HC3SX - CC160 Trex 700 - 700 MX - HC3SX - CC120 Blade 450X - Scorpion 2221-6 - CC 50 Blade 130x - HP08 - CC ( many others ) |
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#4 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: waregem, Belgium
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#5 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: San Diego, California
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Thanks for commenting guys
I am already very familiar with BeastX as I have had a plethora of units in helis far before the AR7200BX was released. I had also converted my Blade 450 3D to FBL sometime in September 2011 with MB. Sorry if my post implied that I was in need of support, I was simply interested to see if any of you had performed anything unique to the heli (i.e. parameter settings or physical upgrades) IMO, this is the ideal thread to post what everybody's done to enhance the Blade 450X's flying ability! Thanks!!! Last edited by BigEast; 03-17-2012 at 12:36 PM.. Reason: Clarification |
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#6 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: PA
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How do i set the curves for throttle so I have good 3D speeds? Should I use the gov function on the ESC? This is my first electric heli
[Regards Rick QUOTE=DoctorJ;3758143]Hi, Mechanics are ether right or wrong on a flybarless heli so no magic there. The cool thing about the BeastX unit installed is the different flight modes if your not comfortable making them from the TX. So realy you need to just see what works well for you. Myself I keep the Beastx in TX mode and use my Tx to adjust flight controls. I use 100% travel, 100% throttle curve, 100% DR and 15 expo. So basically as fast and responsive as it can. There are additional setting within the Beast but I have not found a need to make any changes yet.[/QUOTE] |
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#7 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: San Diego, California
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For 3d speeds, you have three options. Go with the manual, flat curve at 100%. V-Curve, 100%, 85%, 70%, 85%, 100%. Or use an ESC capable of Governor. Stock ESC does not have governor.
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#8 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: San Diego, California
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Has anybody got an established pitch curve/throttle curve that's been fairing well so far? How about a v-curve?
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#9 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: North Bend, WA
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Similar to all my other helis:
Idle 0: flat throttle 0% - linear pitch 0-25-50-100 idle 1: flat throttle 70% - linear pitch 0-25-50-100 idle 2: flat throttle 100% - linear pitch 0-25-50-100 I've experimented with v-curves on my 450 3D. Didn't buy me anything. I've found the Eflight ESC isn't very linear and has some rather abrupt changes in speed when using a v-curve, unless your % differences are quite subtle. Running flat gives me the same flight time and the any bogging I get hasn't cause the tail to blow out etc.
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T-Rex 600e, Atom 500, Blade 450X, Nano CP X |
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#10 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Florida
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Mine came out of fhe box with waaay too much negative pitch (same with my mCP X). Adjusted the grip links down by about 4 turns each. Might want to check swash level and pitch.
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Blade mCP X (HP06S, 120SR and HP03T), (C05M, extended tail), (stock, extended tail) Blade Nano CP X, Blade mSR X (HP03S) Blade 450X Spektrum DX7s |
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#11 | |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sandy, Oregon
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Quote:
If you have too much pitch in any direction for your comfort level do this with your radio via pitch curve and or travel limits.
__________________
Goblin 700 - XF495 KDE - HC3SX - CC160 Trex 700 - 700 MX - HC3SX - CC120 Blade 450X - Scorpion 2221-6 - CC 50 Blade 130x - HP08 - CC ( many others ) |
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#12 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sandy, Oregon
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You cannot apply MCPX setup technics to a 450X beastx
__________________
Goblin 700 - XF495 KDE - HC3SX - CC160 Trex 700 - 700 MX - HC3SX - CC120 Blade 450X - Scorpion 2221-6 - CC 50 Blade 130x - HP08 - CC ( many others ) |
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#13 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Florida
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So, if I unplug the ESC, plug in the battery, set pitch on the transmitter to 50% (or 0% on a -100%–+100% scale) and unplug the battery and have several degrees of negative pitch I'm supposed to adjust this out with servo travel?
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Blade mCP X (HP06S, 120SR and HP03T), (C05M, extended tail), (stock, extended tail) Blade Nano CP X, Blade mSR X (HP03S) Blade 450X Spektrum DX7s |
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#14 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: San Diego, California
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GeneralAntilles, I think there was some misinterpretation between you and DoctorJ. I believe that DoctorJ thought that you had too much pitch in any one direction, not that you had negative pitch at half throttle while in throttle hold.
To acheive zero pitch at half collective, enter throttle hold with linear pitch curves, do what you had already done (Adjust pitch links accordingly), and go through the AR7200BX collective setup process. (Refer to the AR7200BX manual) To adjust how much maximum/minimum pitch you have, perform the AR7200BX setup process. (Refer to the AR7200BX mnual) In one of the last steps, the user has the ability to adjust the maximum/minimum pitch. Then, change your pitch curves if needed to personal preference. Hope this helps!!! |
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#15 | |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Florida
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Quote:
Hooray for the confusion of text-only communication?
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Blade mCP X (HP06S, 120SR and HP03T), (C05M, extended tail), (stock, extended tail) Blade Nano CP X, Blade mSR X (HP03S) Blade 450X Spektrum DX7s |
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#16 | |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sandy, Oregon
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Quote:
I think any setting changes would really be a personal thing and would not apply to everyone. I'm not saying it can't be improved but you would have to be a pro level pilot to appreciate it. I think the bigger question is what can we do as pilots to enhance our ability to be as good as this Heli is out of the box. That's amazing job on blades part. Just my thoughts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Goblin 700 - XF495 KDE - HC3SX - CC160 Trex 700 - 700 MX - HC3SX - CC120 Blade 450X - Scorpion 2221-6 - CC 50 Blade 130x - HP08 - CC ( many others ) |
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#17 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: San Diego, California
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Yeah, I agree! But if anybody's done any upgrades or changes to personal preference (Not mechanically of course, just pitch curves, throttle curves, dual rates, expo, ATV, etc) I'm all ears!
Thanks! |
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#18 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: San Diego, California
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If anyone has for any reason wiped out, messed up, changed their settings or is encountering issues with the B450X, here is a BeastX Tuning Guide created by Nwmtech:
Tail Setup/Tuning: 1. Dial 3 in middle position and parameter menu item [D] (Heading Lock) to purple 2. I personally start with rudder ATV's at about 105 3. Control behavior to Transmitter mode 4. Rudder expo to 15% (personal choice) 5. Fly and immediately check piro rate and adjust via ATV's if needed. Don't worry about your expo yet. Fly and find maximum tail gyro gain (adjusted in TX) do fast forward and backwards flight if possible. Sliding the tail through a hard bank turn will help if you can't do backwards flight. Adjust right to the point of slight oscillation then back off 3% in the transmitter. 6. With that gyro gain do fast forward flight and piro slowly. Piros should be smooth with no sling-shotting or whipping. If they're not consistent increase parameter [D] and try again. 7. Recheck tail gyro gain then set your expo per personal preference. 8. Finally, adjust the tail stop gain by using Dial 3. Perform fast piros while hovering and quickly release rudder. Observe how the tail stops. If it continues to slide to a stop after you let go then increase Dial 3. If it bounces back then decrease Dial 3. When it gets close listen to the tail blades when you stop. If you can hear them "bark" when the tail stops your just a tad too high on the stop gain. Head Tuning: 1. Control Behavior in Transmitter mode already 2. Start with ATV's at 100/100 for AIL/ELEV and I usually start about 20% expo. It's really a personal preference though. 3. Both Dial 1 and Dial 2 in middle position. 4. Parameter menu [E] (Stick response) on setting 2. Red flashing LED. Paramter menu [C] (Pitching up Behavior) to "Very Low". Purple LED. 5. Bring heli into a hover for about 5 seconds. Any oscillation in the head then lower Dial 1 in small increments until it's gone. 6. Fly heli and set your Flip/Roll rates via ATV's in the transmitter. Watch for any large bobbles or coasting when letting off the cyclic. If it bobbles reduce Dial 1. If it coasts increase Dial1. 7. Fly in fast forward flight and give moderate sized postive and negative pitch pumps with NO cyclic input. Watch the heli and look for a "dolphin" type movement. If it pitches up and down as you pump the collective increase paramter [C] (Pitching up comensation) one increment at a time until it goes away. You want the lowest setting possible with no negative tendencies. 8. Now comes the part that's a little more difficult to explain. The two main settings left are Dial 1 and Dial 2 and this is where there's really no right or wrong answer per say but a lot more depends on personal feel. Dial 2 (to me) is basically like stick response or that "paddle" feel that many talk about. If you get to the point where the heli just doesn't feel as responsive as you'd like around center stick but you can't reduce your expo any more (or... you've reduced your expo to the point where you're seeing your small corrections that you usually don't see) then increase Dial 2. If you feel like you need more expo but you're starting to surpass 30% then decrease Dial #2. Dial #2 will not affect your flip and roll rates and it is NOT the same thing as expo but to a lesser experienced pilot can feel somwhat similar so don't get them confused or you'll be chasing your tail. Myself, from general flying experience, I know that I'm about a 20%-25% cyclic expo guy. I like a pretty fast flip/roll rate but like to dull it down a tad around center for the precision. So I know that if I get down to around 15% and it still feels a little slow around center then I just go right back to 20% expo and increase Dial 2. Dial 1 is more how "tight" or locked in the cyclic feels. Some people prefer a much more rigid and locked in cyclic so running this gain as high as possible without negative tendencies (elevator bobbles during tic-tocs, etc.) is what you'll want to strive for. If you like a "looser" cyclic (more like a flybar heli) then try decreasing Dial 1. If you get to the point where the heli isn't tracking well and feels slightly unstable in FFF then you're too low. Tail Precomp Tuning: 1. Activate Collective Precomp with default values and confirm correct Precomp direction (set collective at midstick, apply positive pitch and tail slider should move the same direction as if you gave it right rudder) 2. Set Rate mode gyro gain to the same as your current HH gain. 3. Adjust tail rod for steady tail in a Rate mode hover. 4. Reset tail servo endpoints in Parameter E if mechanical changes were made in step #3. 5. Adjust Collective Precomp value in software to where tail holds steady in a full pitch Rate mode climb-out. 6. Adjust cyclic Precomp to 1/2 the value of your collective Precomp. 7. Back into HH mode and enjoy! -Nwmtech I've personally found that most of this guide is transferable to your Blade 450 X and works great! Have fun!! |
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#19 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: madison heights,michigan
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Hello all,,I got the 450x and will be testing today! Ill ..One thing i will do is..Iam going to use my 450 3D canopy as i think ill see it better and..I will be useing align 325 WHITE/carbon blades..
Cant wait to see,ill post back later, |
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#20 | |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: San Diego, California
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Quote:
I myself have added aluminum canopy mounts, an aluminum tail servo mount, carbon fiber tail blades, a remote receiver, and a DS3500G Tail Servo. Flies great!!! Last edited by BigEast; 03-18-2012 at 07:58 PM.. |
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Unregistered
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