Issues with the Fury 55

[Serbi]

Hi, I've got one of the first Fury 55 (serial number 17), have built and flown it but have some issues with it: the main shaft, assembled as per the manual, and with the main gear on, has some up and down play. Depending on which position I tightened the lower collar, the play was in the either the shaft or the main gear moving slightly up and down. I got rid of the issue by tightening the lower collar so the play was in the main shaft, and then put an Align collar on top of the main shaft upper bearing, thus getting rid of all play. It works, but I don't think it was supposed to be that way.
The second issue is that the screw which holds the boom struts to the boom clamp sheared off in flight, and after replacing it, during the next flight, the upper boom support (metal) just broke!
The third thing is not an issue, rather a question: am I the only one who finds a pure plastic washout hub a bit strange on a kit of this price?
Oh, and the tail pitch assembly works ok, but looks nothing like the work of art which is the Furion tail pitch slider assembly...
Other than that, it flies really well, I like it a lot. Put some CY Stubz and that really improved the rather slow cyclic. With 620 blades it flies almost like a 700.

[Brian James]

The up and down play in the main gear is normal, and should be left. Do not allow the main shaft to have up and down play.

It sounds like you may have a high frequency vibration problem, We highly recommend balancing the fan/hub assembly.

[Serbi]

Originally Posted by bgjames111

The up and down play in the main gear is normal, and should be left. Do not allow the main shaft to have up and down play.

It sounds like you may have a high frequency vibration problem, We highly recommend balancing the fan/hub assembly.

Thanks for your quick reply. I did balance the fan, but will check for other high frequency vibration sources. Like I said, other than that the heli flies and sounds quite normal. Just out of curiosity, why is the up and down play in the main gear normal and what purpose does it serve? I've built and flown almost all popular 50 size helis on the market (Trex 600, Vibe 50, Raptor 50SE, Velocity 50) and this is a first for me.

[Brian James]

Serbi,

Several years ago Augusto wrote a great explanation of how these one way (torrington) bearings work:
http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/t5...freya+auto+hub

[Serbi]

Originally Posted by bgjames111

Serbi,

Several years ago Augusto wrote a great explanation of how these one way (torrington) bearings work:
http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/t5...freya+auto+hub

Thanks for the reply, I read Augusto's explanation, very informative. I'll remove the upper collar I put in and let the main gear have it's play.
I still think it's strange that the washout hub is plastic, but hey, if it works...

[Alfred]

Originally Posted by Serbi

Thanks for the reply, I read Augusto's explanation, very informative. I'll remove the upper collar I put in and let the main gear have it's play.
I still think it's strange that the washout hub is plastic, but hey, if it works...

The plastic washout hub has been proven over 20 years of service in the MA line.
My guess is that it's another weight saving action by MA.
These washouts never ever needed to be replaced in the 1st place, so I assume that the metal ones were implemented due to Customers "expecting" metal versions on higher class helies.
Not because of real engineering reasons.
I have both versions on my MA helies which are 60 ~ 90 size and I can't tell any difference in precision or wear characteristics.

[Brian James]

The plastic washout hub has been proven over 20 years of service in the MA line.
My guess is that it's another weight saving action by MA.
These washouts never ever needed to be replaced in the 1st place, so I assume that the metal ones were implemented due to Customers "expecting" metal versions on higher class helies.
Not because of real engineering reasons.
I have both versions on my MA helies which are 60 ~ 90 size and I can't tell any difference in precision or wear characteristics.

As a manufacturer, it is important to offer a product that is desired. Some people like shiny metal parts and are ok with paying more, some want a solid flying model and are not worried about option parts that do not necessarily improve performance. Neither type of hobbyist is more "right", and everyone enjoys their hobby differently. Typically plastic components weigh less then CNC aluminum, and are much cheaper to replace if they break.

[Benz_Brake]

I'm planning to get a Fury 55 kit. One thing I want to know is the one way bearing hub that comes with the kit is plastic ? I feel a bit concern it will have the same issue like SDX 50 !! Does anyone have any issue about the one way bearing hub under heavy load or doing autos?

[Rob43]

I've only begun to fly my Fury 55, but I can feel a substantial difference in flight characteristics when compared to my T-Rex 600 Nitro. I love flying both of them, but the Fury seems to be more responsive, while still locked in. With my, er, uh, developing collective management, I can bog it more easily in tic tocs, but am running Red Devil 620's with less than optimal tune on the Rex 57. I love how smooth it is, and yet faster flipping and harder stopping. It rockets upwards on less than full collective. I may need to lower my collective range until I get more used to it. It tracks extremely well, like it's on rails. The cyclic is plenty fast as stock...very much on-axis. It flies perfectly. I see what guys mean saying it flies more like the 90 sized machines when using the 620's. I have Red Devil 600's as well, and will throw them back on soon just to see the difference with nothing else changed.

Best wishes...