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mSR X Blade Micro SRX Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 05-01-2012, 08:24 PM   #1
lmcwilli
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Default Difficult to maintain servos

I bought the mSRX last January and have had a lot of fun flying it. However once it started developing a chattering servo, I needed to clean the contact.

Problem is, the screws easily end up with stripped heads making them near impossible to remove. In addition, the plastic mounts for the servo easily break.

I decided that I needed to replace the entire aileron servo but discovered that to do that I would have to replace the entire board---for $70.

That's when I decided to retire the mSRX. Cost of ownership too high.
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Old 05-01-2012, 08:53 PM   #2
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I am pretty sure you can replace the servo alone for $7.99. You may want to give that a try.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/webapp/w...pe=productgrid
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Old 05-01-2012, 09:26 PM   #3
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And use the correct micro screwdriver for removing / installing those itty bitty teeny weeny screws ( the heads strip out very quick)
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:21 AM   #4
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Thanks for your helpful comments.

I cannot tell a lie, I stripped the heads on the mounting screws before I had purchased a proper set of JIS drivers.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A3NUNNXXHUJDMF

I found an image of the replacement part you suggested

http://www.advantagehobby.com/201218/SPM6836/

At $7.47, it is certainly worth a try. I'm not sure if the chattering of my servo is due to the servo mechanics or the contact surface on the board. But, this part will certainly replace my broken plastic mounts and provide me (I hope) with a new set of mounting screws.

I'll purchase this part and---one again---clean the contact surface on the board, then see if I can resume flying.
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:30 AM   #5
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Also don't overtighten. Once the head is snug (as soon as it and the servo both touch the board) all you need is a quarter turn more.
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Old 05-02-2012, 09:34 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burnoutboy View Post
Also don't overtighten. Once the head is snug (as soon as it and the servo both touch the board) all you need is a quarter turn more.
Good suggestion. Thanks.
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Last edited by lmcwilli; 05-03-2012 at 05:31 AM..
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Old 05-02-2012, 11:11 AM   #7
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No prob man. Been there. I stripped the plastic on one of the corners overtightening the first time. It really doesnt take much. Once you have the right size screwdriver the plasic gives WAY before the head of the screw.
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Old 05-02-2012, 02:17 PM   #8
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Someone suggested leaving the motor connected and just replacing the servo mechanism. For someone like me who has very little soldering experience that sounds like a good idea. I have a board that I replaced because the servo went bad. I'll try replacing the servo.
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:40 PM   #9
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Right. After ordering the servo replacement, I discovered that in order to do a complete replacement, you need to solder the new connector motor to the board. I have neither the skills nor the equipment to do that.

When I need something like that, I send it to superjet112x. He'll do it for around $25.
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:55 PM   #10
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I can speak from experience that it's very easy to strip the plastic making those screws nearly impossible to remove. In fact, on one of my mSRX's the plastic on one of the screws was stripped from the factory. Couldn't remove it the very first time I tried to clean the servos.

If that happens, another HF member suggested touching the head of the screw with a hot soldering iron with a fine tip for 1-2 seconds and then giving it a minute or so to cool and then trying to remove. It worked like a charm as it melted the plastic back around the screw. I've cleaned that servo about 3 more times since then without an issue. Just a suggestion that might save someone from buying a new servo or, worse, a new board for a simple stripped screw.
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Old 05-04-2012, 04:23 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Gardill View Post
I can speak from experience that it's very easy to strip the plastic making those screws nearly impossible to remove. In fact, on one of my mSRX's the plastic on one of the screws was stripped from the factory. Couldn't remove it the very first time I tried to clean the servos.

If that happens, another HF member suggested touching the head of the screw with a hot soldering iron with a fine tip for 1-2 seconds and then giving it a minute or so to cool and then trying to remove. It worked like a charm as it melted the plastic back around the screw. I've cleaned that servo about 3 more times since then without an issue. Just a suggestion that might save someone from buying a new servo or, worse, a new board for a simple stripped screw.
AWESOME TIP!
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Old 05-05-2012, 05:09 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Gardill View Post
I can speak from experience that it's very easy to strip the plastic making those screws nearly impossible to remove. In fact, on one of my mSRX's the plastic on one of the screws was stripped from the factory. Couldn't remove it the very first time I tried to clean the servos.

If that happens, another HF member suggested touching the head of the screw with a hot soldering iron with a fine tip for 1-2 seconds and then giving it a minute or so to cool and then trying to remove. It worked like a charm as it melted the plastic back around the screw. I've cleaned that servo about 3 more times since then without an issue. Just a suggestion that might save someone from buying a new servo or, worse, a new board for a simple stripped screw.
What soldering iron did you use? In other words, the specs. A URL would be even better

I'm sure my existing soldering iron gets too hot and has too large a tip.
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Old 05-05-2012, 05:19 AM   #13
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If too hot, touch shorter (0.5 - 1 second). Tip can be larger as long as you don't touch anything else but the screw head.

It's all about transferring the right amount of heat.
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Old 05-05-2012, 10:22 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danb1974 View Post
If too hot, touch shorter (0.5 - 1 second). Tip can be larger as long as you don't touch anything else but the screw head.

It's all about transferring the right amount of heat.
+1. I agree. I have a 40W Weller station that I got from Amazon and then I bought a superfine tip. I'm out and about right now but will try and post a link later when I've got access to my PC. It's a nice all around iron and was reasonable. Does a nice job on the mcpx project and Ive used it to solder battery connectors and other things on my 450 with no problems.
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:15 AM   #15
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From all experience out there, what is the best iron to use to work on these things? the Weller mentioned above, or something different.

If/when I have a server go out, I'd be more inclined to clip the wires at the servo body and solder the new server to the the old wires. I'm too fumblefingered to try soldering on the board.

Thx for up in the thread for a contact to fix my soldering messes when I mess up
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:03 PM   #16
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Any cheap soldering iron with a reasonable small tip will do
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Old 05-05-2012, 03:00 PM   #17
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Tip is more important than iron. Witha litle control you can use a crap iron as long as the tip is new and clean. I use this butane unit and put a pencil shaped soldering tip on it when doing micro soldering like board work.

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Old 05-13-2012, 02:19 PM   #18
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Well. I managed to replace the left servo that was chattering. I just soldered the wires on the new servo to the wires connected to the board.

Unfortunately, the left servo still chatters continuously.
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:17 AM   #19
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You also have to clean the resistive track on the electronics board before mounting the new servo. I don't know who had the bright ideea to use open servo's...
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