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Old 05-04-2012, 08:09 PM   #1
The Dentman
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Default Step G help please

I get 0 pitch on step G but when I click out to move on servos move and it goes to neg 2.5 degree pitch.. On another 600 pro same everything the servos move when leaving step G but they don't change pitch.. Swashplate and servo arms are all level.. I just cant figure this out..

Obviously it's a brand new 600 pro kit. thanks for help
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:59 PM   #2
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I posted in beastx forum but no help.. When doing step G in setup menu I get 0 pitch but when I leave that step the servo's glitch and the pitch changes to 2.5... I tried this step on another 600 pro and servo's did same thing but they don't change the pitch of blades.. Anyone have this problem? Everything is brand new 600 pro bec esc servo's everthing beastx also
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Old 05-04-2012, 10:09 PM   #3
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make sure when you exit step g you still have one of the servos selected and it will stay at zero
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Old 05-04-2012, 10:21 PM   #4
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hamstart you know what's weird is that when I power up heli pitch is at 2.5 degrees.. But when I enter setup G it's 0 like it should be.. I'm wondering if it's a servo or beastx both are brand new though.. Like I said on a twin 600 everything when clicking in and out of setup G the servo's jump a little or glitch a little but pitch doesn't change. But with my heli if I power on pitch is off but in G it's fine and when I exit G it changes back to the 2.5.. Man this is so hard to figure out.
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Old 05-04-2012, 11:27 PM   #5
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redo step g and exit with a servo still selected and see if it still does it
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Old 05-05-2012, 12:20 AM   #6
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Apparently when you enter step G the LED will go dark and you're at the reference point. This point is used to get everything on your head as close to 90 as possible. Next you click through with your rudder between the 3 servos to fine tune your swash level.

Think of it as two steps

G(a) - servos are centered, get horns and linkages up through the head 90 , LED is off on the reference point. Reference point is not tuned in software, it's just a non tuned 'center'.

G(b) - rudder stick to flop between your cyclic servos to get the swash level. Exit step G from here to 'save' the level swash.

When you re-enter step G later, you start out in sub a again, the reference point, just ignore it and flip to one of the servos to check swash level again.

THIS is how I understand it, just setup my first unit, I could be wrong.
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Old 05-05-2012, 12:22 AM   #7
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Now THAT was some useful information, it clears up a little problem I've had as well. Thanks!
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Old 05-05-2012, 07:57 AM   #8
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See here for advice I gave to someone else with what is likely the same issue.

Cheers

Sutty
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Old 05-05-2012, 08:01 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Dentman View Post
I posted in beastx forum but no help.. SNIP
THIS thread was only on the second page in the BEASTX forum.

Also, sometimes help comes pretty quickly. Other times it might be the next day before you get some replies. As you can see, sutty replied to your original thread this morning.
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Old 05-05-2012, 08:58 AM   #10
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I know this thread is somewhat "dead", but I saw another tip that might be worthwhile to ask about or add here. After you set the arms and level the swash, then you adjust the links to get zero pitch. Well, getting perfect zero pitch is really hard. Someone made the simple suggestion of getting as close as you can and then simply using the subtrim on the "pitch" servo to get zero pitch. Really simplified method of setup to get the last degree of perfection. I guess this is somewhat "substandard", but certainly seems a very simplified method.
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Old 05-05-2012, 09:33 AM   #11
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I'm going to try these tips in an hour... I'll get back after I try them out.. thanks for the help hopefully I get this figured out.
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Old 05-05-2012, 09:59 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryem3 View Post
Someone made the simple suggestion of getting as close as you can and then simply using the subtrim on the "pitch" servo to get zero pitch. Really simplified method of setup to get the last degree of perfection. I guess this is somewhat "substandard", but certainly seems a very simplified method.
I'm confused. When I replied earlier I could have sworn there were no other replies. Had I known the matter had been cleared up, which it would appear it has, I would have kept quiet.

As for using pitch sub-trim to help at this point I fail to see the benefit of using Tx based pitch sub-trim.

Since the pitch channel is completely disabled and out of the loop during set-up step G, it will also be out of the loop for step J. Since step J requires a starting point of 0 degrees to be done correctly, you cannot wait for the pitch channel to become active, when flight mode is selected, for any adjustment that Tx based pitch sub-trim could bring to bear. You have to get step G correct so that you can do step J, and other steps correctly too, and since this is in set-up, Tx sub-trim is irrelevant.

Of course it can be an issue when a full turn on the links will put you out of level the other way, so this is what I do do be perfect in step G:

Follow all the normal steps, and with your swash levelling tool on the swash, you can be a hair out. Turn the link, and you go out the other way. This being the case I use the step G sub-trim feature to get it perfect. Use the rudder to select the single servo that is high or low, and then just use the elevator to make that tiny tiny adjustment that may be necessary.

Now of course, if your arms were perfectly 90 before, one will not be now, but it will be out by such a tiny amount that it will be of no relevance, as getting them 90 is simply to ensure that you are in the centre of travel and do not end up with differential throws. However, a hair off here just won't make a difference, servos are not made so accurately anyway. Not only that, you have already moved them somewhat off centre to compensate for the spline errors, so they are no longer all at perfect centre anyway. Further, when we get the servo arms to 90 there is no real tool to help with this, so we have to eyeball it. As a result it will not be perfect, however hard you try, so it must be acceptable to make a tiny adjustment to this step to make the swash spot on where a turn on the link would fail.

Use step G sub trim again to finalise this step for a perfect swash, is, in my opinion, an acceptable compromise, and makes sure step J is correct to demonstrate your geometry to you and the MicroBeast. Doing it with Tx based pitch sub-trim cannot help here, in my opinion, as it is not active, but I am happy to be corrected if I have misunderstood something.

Cheers

Sutty
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Old 05-05-2012, 10:35 AM   #13
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sutty,

There were no other replies to the thread you responded to. All the other replies you see were from a cross post in the Main forum. I merged the two threads.
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Old 05-05-2012, 10:47 AM   #14
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Ah, okay, cheers Bob.
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Old 05-05-2012, 12:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sutty View Post
Ah, okay, cheers Bob.
Great job guys.. All I did was keep a servo active when leaving step G and it stayed 0 pitch when I got to step J...

I did however have to go in and raise the swash overall because it was low and not centered on main shaft..

So everything looks good on beastX now I"m setting up esc and I'm gonna tray and get tail mechanically straight before I maiden her. I'll probably have to do some setup with that.

I hope I don't have to move the ABC pods to much.. I"m just flying in Sport mode right now to I can learn the heli.

Can say thanks enought to the guys who posted help in here.. Sutty your post was very helpfull so please don't feel the detailed response was not appreciated.
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:45 PM   #16
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Thanks for that. I didn't though, I was just confused since the reason I replied was that I thought you had no answers. Next time I looked there were about 8, lol. Just glad you have it sorted, that's the main thing. Just as a matter of interest, it doesn't matter if you leave that step with a light on or not, for sure. What matters is if you make the adjustments with a light on or not. As long as there is one on, whilst you adjust the links, then that's it.


Cheers

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Old 05-05-2012, 10:40 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sutty View Post
I'm confused. When I replied earlier I could have sworn there were no other replies. Had I known the matter had been cleared up, which it would appear it has, I would have kept quiet.

As for using pitch sub-trim to help at this point I fail to see the benefit of using Tx based pitch sub-trim.

Since the pitch channel is completely disabled and out of the loop during set-up step G, it will also be out of the loop for step J. Since step J requires a starting point of 0 degrees to be done correctly, you cannot wait for the pitch channel to become active, when flight mode is selected, for any adjustment that Tx based pitch sub-trim could bring to bear. You have to get step G correct so that you can do step J, and other steps correctly too, and since this is in set-up, Tx sub-trim is irrelevant.

Of course it can be an issue when a full turn on the links will put you out of level the other way, so this is what I do do be perfect in step G:

Follow all the normal steps, and with your swash levelling tool on the swash, you can be a hair out. Turn the link, and you go out the other way. This being the case I use the step G sub-trim feature to get it perfect. Use the rudder to select the single servo that is high or low, and then just use the elevator to make that tiny tiny adjustment that may be necessary.

Now of course, if your arms were perfectly 90 before, one will not be now, but it will be out by such a tiny amount that it will be of no relevance, as getting them 90 is simply to ensure that you are in the centre of travel and do not end up with differential throws. However, a hair off here just won't make a difference, servos are not made so accurately anyway. Not only that, you have already moved them somewhat off centre to compensate for the spline errors, so they are no longer all at perfect centre anyway. Further, when we get the servo arms to 90 there is no real tool to help with this, so we have to eyeball it. As a result it will not be perfect, however hard you try, so it must be acceptable to make a tiny adjustment to this step to make the swash spot on where a turn on the link would fail.

Use step G sub trim again to finalise this step for a perfect swash, is, in my opinion, an acceptable compromise, and makes sure step J is correct to demonstrate your geometry to you and the MicroBeast. Doing it with Tx based pitch sub-trim cannot help here, in my opinion, as it is not active, but I am happy to be corrected if I have misunderstood something.

Cheers

Sutty
Thanks for the detailed response. Someone else had made he suggestion and it seemed really great. You level the swash in G, then get the links adjusted so you are close to zero pitch. Since the "pitch" trim is no longer the pitch "servo" you can simply go to the sub trim and adjust the real pitch using the sub trim for the pitch servo. This is a real bonus of the Beast FBL use of the TX.
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Old 05-06-2012, 05:23 AM   #18
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Hi ryem

Doesn't matter who said it, if it isn't accurate it needs to be pointed out. Yes, I am aware that the pitch channel controls the pitch function, or collective, and not just the pitch servo, and that applying Tx based sub-trim would re-centre the collective if it were out, and would have no impact on changing its level, which is a good thing. However, it is pointless, as you cannot make use of this for getting 0. There are other reasons why you might use it, which I won't bother with here, but you must already have achieved 0, correctly, at G during set-up in order to do J correctly. Not nearly, but accurately, if you haven't then your J will be out. That's it, nothing more I can suggest. Yes you can fix up zero that is out after set-up, but it is too late then, if you need to do that your J will have been out.

Cheers

Sutty
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Old 05-06-2012, 12:24 PM   #19
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Gotcha. Thanks for clearing that up.
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