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Flight Stabilization Flight Stabilization


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Old 04-28-2012, 08:40 PM   #21
Wesley888
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It's the Kyosho Vibration Absorption Sheet. It suppose to be one of the best anti-vibe pad. I use it for 3 of my (and my friend's) heli with Skookum SK720 and they work great.

As far as I know, Helicmd uses camera, and 3Gx & beastx do not have accelerometers while SK720 uses 3 gyros and 3 accelerometer to achieve self leveling. Accelerometers would get confuse if there are high vibes. That's why the thick vibration absorption sheet is needed. Since APM also uses accelerometers and the Kyosho works great for SK720, I figure APM could benefit from it as well.
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Old 04-29-2012, 08:44 PM   #22
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Finally got a good weather weekend yesterday to try the position hold and attitude hold. With the default setting, the heli flew away from the parking lot so fast that's it's not even funny when I enabled the position hold. After playing around the PID, finally got it to circle in a ... well, kinda circular shape type of path.

Then I got brave and tried the attitude hold again. This time, it works! Other than every few seconds, it drops down for a meter and jump right back up. It must be noise. But having enough room, I just let it be. So I tried Loiter (both position hold and attitude hold).

It flew in a circle and holding the attitude! OMG! How cool is that! Hands free! Then I play around the PID a bit more and got the Loiter_P lower, and got it to circle slowly in a tight spot. Made the Loiter P even lower, it finally stationed within a meter!! What a sight! That was fun. Finally finished all my battery packs and had to come home.

Today, the wind is very gusty and really not good for testing. But I just got it working yesterday, I just couldn't resist to test again. This time I have all the FPV gear mounted. The heli weight increased from 0.99Kg to 1.35Kg!! I had to move the throttle curve from 80% to 100%. I did not adjust the PID at all. I know I suppose to increase the PID to get it to move more aggressively, but I wanted to see how it worked without adjustment first.

Later half of the video had the Loiter mode enabled, and I even walked around the heli to get into the video. Just when I finished walking around it, the motor gave out. Later examining it found out that the pinion slipped off. The ESC detected power overload and auto shut down the motor. Luckily it was hovering not too high and I already have some plastic golf ball cushioning the landing. There were no damage at all.


You tube video starting at the Loitering part: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6PNc...e&hd=1&t=2m22s
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Last edited by Wesley888; 04-30-2012 at 01:43 AM..
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:35 AM   #23
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Nice job.
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:57 PM   #24
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Just in case you dont know. On multicopters wash from the props effects the baro and causes it change altitude. A fix that often works is to cover the baro with open cell foam. Hope this helps and please keep the info coming.
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Old 04-30-2012, 03:13 PM   #25
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It was a low altitude test and the APM2 was only using the sonar to determine the altitude. After adding a capacity and a resistor to clean up the noise on the power line for the sonar, it now has very clean sonar reading.

The red line is the sonar reading. Very smooth and clean. You can see the barometer reading in green that's more or less mirror what the sonar see, but got "push" down to negative level due to the pressure from the heli's blade.

You can also see each time the red line close to the floor, I would throttle up to lift the heli, and the increased pressure is indicated in the even more exaggerated downward green line right at the same spot.



When I'm done tuning the sonar, position hold, and way point, I'll eventually get to the barometer part.
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Old 04-30-2012, 10:03 PM   #26
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Just some photo update.

Sonar (for altitude hold):


Sonar and OptFlow (for position hold using camera like Heli cmd):


3DR Telemetry and OSD:


FPV setup with GoPro and 2W 900Mhz video transmitter:
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Old 05-20-2012, 04:33 AM   #27
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Nice job, Wesley. Could you share your PID settings (especially, Stab YAW P and Rate YAW P)? I have tried for several times, but the tail never works properly.
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Old 05-20-2012, 05:38 PM   #28
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Default OMG! The Tail!!

Yea, the Yaw is always a problem. The major reason is actually caused by the main blade. When it's not well balanced, it causes the tail to wag and also confuse the accelometers. That's why no one setting would work for all heli. Hell, it won't even work on my own heli when I change blades.

Here is what I've done, when it's wagging bad. Keep the Rate Yaw low and let the Stab Yaw higher to keep it doing Heading Hold (HH). It works. Here is what I do:

When you have extremely well balanced heli, you can have Rate Yaw P up to 0.288. Normal slightly unbalanced heli would need Rate Yaw P= 0.208 or even as low as 0.198. Fix the Stab Yaw to somewhere around 1-1.9 for now and forget about HH. Set Stab Yaw I=0. And make sure the tail does not vibrate/wagging first. Once you get your Rate Yaw to not vibrating/wagging, then do the Stabilize Yaw. Put in a small Rate Yaw I such as 0.1. I was told you must have it. I just don't see too much effect with it.

For Stabilize Yaw, that's for HH. You can get it as high as P=3.5 or as low as 1.98 or so. By now, your heli should be hover ok. You can start from 2 and keep increasing it until it is solid and not wagging.

Let me know how it work out for you.
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Last edited by Wesley888; 05-21-2012 at 01:04 AM..
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Old 05-20-2012, 05:49 PM   #29
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Default Stabilization PIDs.

When you are done with the tail, Stabilization PID is next. My current parameters are:

Stab Roll/Pitch: P=0.65, I=0, IMAX=2
Stab Rate Roll/Pitch: P=0.135, I=0, D=0, IMAX=5

The Stab Rate P would cause your throttle to move too rough when it's too high. Your heli will hover like a yo yo. lol When it's too low, the throttle would react slow. P=0.135 works silky smooth for me.

When Stab P is too high, the heli always want to stay straight up. It is very difficult to cruise around. You push the stick and let go, the heli "bounces" right back straight up when P=0.7 or higher. I keep it lower to make it fly more like a heli. Depends on how you like the feel. When it too low under 0.6, you won't even have control of the heli. Don't even try. I did. lol
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:37 AM   #30
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I tried Stab YAW P = 2.5 and Rate YAW P = 0.35. The tail servo moves properly when I perform a ground test. However, the heli keep spinning after it lifts off. Is it required to tune the tail mechanism and make it stop spinning in Rate mode at first?
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Old 05-21-2012, 01:03 AM   #31
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Hmm... Even if the PID is not enough, it wouldn't keep spinning like that. Two things you can try:

1) Now that you know which way it spin, before it lift off, push your control a few times that way and your heli's rudder would stay more on that side. It should help the rudder PID to keep it still.

2) You probably need some Rudder Trim in the "Heli Setup" page. Basically, make the tail having some counter force to stop your tail from spinning to begin with. I think this is a more permanent fix. Just don't trim it the wrong way.
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:55 PM   #32
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Wesley888, can I just say how cool this project is? Someday soon Ill be ordering one... I hope..

Sent from my GT-S5570 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:38 PM   #33
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Default Pinouts and Wiring

What are your pin-outs for Connecting to the Ardu Pilot Mega 2.0?
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Old 08-24-2012, 01:16 AM   #34
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They don't really have a wiki page for APM2, but the connections are pretty much the same with APM1.

http://code.google.com/p/arducopter/..._ConnectingAPM
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:47 AM   #35
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Hello, do not tell me what I'm doing wrong?

BEC I connected to the receiver, the receiver of the signal and power to the input apm2, and thought that the food should be the output apm2 but I have not power to the servo
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:58 AM   #36
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There is a diode connecting between the servo rail and the input one. You have to power the APM from the servo side (if you have that particular jumper on). Without that jumper, you have to power both side seperately, which is needed for those high voltage servos.
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:00 AM   #37
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Wesley888,
how well does the tail hold?
Reason for me asking is: we are doing something similar with the MultiWii flight controller. It works ok, but the tail authority is that of a rate gyro.
If interested, read here: http://www.multiwii.com/forum/viewto...tart=40#p15319

Cheers, Hamburger
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Old 11-26-2012, 05:56 AM   #38
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Hi there. Could someone help me with connecting power servos and receiver, because I can not find anywhere specific instructions and since I do not want to mess up. So I ask for help.

Trex 450 PRO with Kontronik JAZZ 55 LV, APM 2.0, and 3DR Telemetry - The only question is: how to operate all this stuff together.

Sorry for my bad "Google Translate" English. Please help I'm just a beginner who knows nothing
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:06 AM   #39
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Question Setup Instructions

Hi there. Could someone help me with connecting power servos and receiver, because I can not find anywhere specific instructions and since I do not want to mess up so I ask for help. Trex 450 PRO, Kontronik JAZZ 55 LV, APM 2.0, and 3DR Telemetry - The only question: how to operate a all together. Sorry for my bad "Google Translate" English. Please help I'm just a beginner who knows nothing
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:57 PM   #40
Wesley888
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For the power for APM2, the most important part is to use the jumping JP1 so that you have power on both side of APM2. One side is for the APM2 itself, and the other side is for the servos.

Read here:
http://code.google.com/p/arducopter/wiki/APM2board

"If the jumper is on, which is the factory default, the board is powered from the Output rail. If the jumper is off, the board is powered from the Input rail, but the Output rail will need its own power source."

Also, if you still have problem, you should go to Ardupilot's native forum here:
http://diydrones.com/forum/categorie...istForCategory
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