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Old 05-29-2012, 12:59 PM   #1
jmancobra
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Default anyone here that owns an E6 ever owned a 6hv?

I have a 6hv and an E7. After my castle cremated itself Im hesitant to rebuild it as an e7 for fear of it happening again. I love how floaty and light my 6hv feels( but dang it's hard to see very far out) and was wondering if I do make this a 6 can I expect a feel anywhere near that? I have 4000mah packs and 3000mah packs. Id rather not buy something in between in case I dont keep it as a 6. Also, I have the hacker 470. I know people use it but is it really ideal or should I be looking into the 580?
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:20 PM   #2
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I have a 6hv and an E7. After my castle cremated itself Im hesitant to rebuild it as an e7 for fear of it happening again. I love how floaty and light my 6hv feels( but dang it's hard to see very far out) and was wondering if I do make this a 6 can I expect a feel anywhere near that? I have 4000mah packs and 3000mah packs. Id rather not buy something in between in case I dont keep it as a 6. Also, I have the hacker 470. I know people use it but is it really ideal or should I be looking into the 580?
I have owned a 6HV and currently own an E7. An E6 will NOT be floaty. The E6 kit makes a 600 that is a bit on the heavy side for a 600, even using 10s batteries. The E7 is on the light side for a 700. Unless you have some problem with your motor, wiring or other components, there's no reason why you can't have a reliable E7. There is no reason why an E6 power train would be intrinsically more reliable.
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:53 AM   #3
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I've tried a 6hv and currently have an E6 and E7. Love my E6 with 3300 and 4000 packs. Would not make it as another E7. It certainly does feel light in the air and tracks really well.

You won't be sorry. Go for it.
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:11 AM   #4
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I have owned both. I didn't like the 6HV, had tail wag problems that I could not fix, funny because I've never before not been able to fix tail wags. Yes lighter but E6 will do everything the 6HV will. Plus if you ask me the Synergy parts are all much better quality and easier to work on.
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Old 07-09-2012, 10:26 AM   #5
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You who have flown, both is the extra 2 lbs on the synergy noticable?
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Old 07-09-2012, 01:50 PM   #6
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To me the extra 2 pounds isn't, it's all in the set-up and programming.
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:58 PM   #7
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I have owned both. I didn't like the 6HV, had tail wag problems that I could not fix, funny because I've never before not been able to fix tail wags. Yes lighter but E6 will do everything the 6HV will. Plus if you ask me the Synergy parts are all much better quality and easier to work on.
Same here. Tail wags and other minor mechanical issues turned me off my 6HV sold it to a friend for spares. The bottom line is the 6HV is really more like a stretched 550 and the E6 is more like a short boom and bladed 700. The 6HV will be floaty, if you like that kind of flight. The E6 will hang in a breeze better by far. 6HV will auto better due to the lighter disk loading. Depends on what you are looking for. Design and parts quality on the Synergy are worlds ahead of the 6HV.
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Old 08-20-2012, 10:34 AM   #8
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Does E6 have the direct to swash like the 6hv and align's DFC?
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Old 08-20-2012, 11:17 AM   #9
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Does E6 have the direct to swash like the 6hv and align's DFC?
The E6 does not have a Compass/DFC type head. However, the servos go directly to the swash. The E6 has a traditional adjustable washout base with arms to keep the swash in phase.
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Old 08-20-2012, 12:46 PM   #10
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I guess it does not matter as long as it works and sounds like it does.
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Old 09-03-2012, 01:48 PM   #11
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Related to the separate swash driver vs DFC- some of the pro's are playing with the phasing and actually advancing it 5-10 degrees. This can't be done with a DFC setup or head with intergrated swash driver. Supposedly the phase change makes the pitch and roll a little tighter and more axial.
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Old 09-03-2012, 01:56 PM   #12
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Related to the separate swash driver vs DFC- some of the pro's are playing with the phasing and actually advancing it 5-10 degrees. This can't be done with a DFC setup or head with intergrated swash driver. Supposedly the phase change makes the pitch and roll a little tighter and more axial.
Very true. But most of the better FBL controllers have a built in setting to optimize phasing. DFC and integrated drivers don't necessarily mean you can't play with it.
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Old 09-03-2012, 07:15 PM   #13
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What is phasing?
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Old 09-03-2012, 07:48 PM   #14
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What is phasing?
Basically, phasing is the timing of the cyclic inputs. If you line up your blades with the boom and check your front and/or rear inner and outer swash balls, with zero timing they will be in line with each other. On a clockwise rotating head if the inner balls have moved beyond "12:00 or 6 o'clock" in relation to the front or rear fixed swash ball (when the blades and boom are lined up) then the ship has some advance timing in the cyclic. You can only adjust this mechanically on ships that have a separate washout base that is adjustable (clamp on type).

Due to blade lead lag and other factors, sometimes the best timing is not zero. That's why it used to be adjustable mechanically on high quality heli kits and still is in the best FBL controllers. A properly designed flybar head will need very little if any timing adjustment. FBL controllers, for the most part don't need adjustable phasing. F3C precision aerobatic pilots will probably want to have adjustable phasing, either mechanical or in the FBL controller if they fly in a FBL class.
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:21 PM   #15
Rob Cherry
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Same here. Tail wags and other minor mechanical issues turned me off my 6HV sold it to a friend for spares. The bottom line is the 6HV is really more like a stretched 550 and the E6 is more like a short boom and bladed 700. The 6HV will be floaty, if you like that kind of flight. The E6 will hang in a breeze better by far. 6HV will auto better due to the lighter disk loading. Depends on what you are looking for. Design and parts quality on the Synergy are worlds ahead of the 6HV.
or... use the extra weight for awesome overspeed autos! My overspeed autos are killer with heavy 5000s, but not so much with 4400s, and virtually impossible with the 4000's.

"Overspeed-ability" is inversely related to "float-ability" with weight being the primary factor. haha!

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