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130X Blade 130X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 07-10-2012, 11:42 PM   #21
osyhaz
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I want this baby!!!! I have the money!!!


I wonder when its gonna be safe to buy it...


A good start for HH should be to throw away all that pre-production 130x that looks like has nothing to do with the production products their customers received...
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:07 AM   #22
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As I mentioned I would yesterday, I tried my old DX7se this morning. It bound exactly as it should (in my office, not outside). I then unplugged the battery and turned off my transmitter. Through a number of turning on, plugging in cycles, I discovered that IF I turned my transmitter on, and IMMEDIATELY pluged in the battery to the helicopter, the helicopter would enter bind mode. So with a bit of experimenting, I found that it was best to wait for a few seconds (5?) before plugging in the battery. Doing so, I got a perfect initialization every time (20+ times)

So...in my limited scientific tests, I concluded that turning on the transmitter, and waiting 5 seconds before plugging in my battery resulted in a prefect initialization.
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:19 AM   #23
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Hi James,

Is there an exact boom reference point/measurement we should go by when seating into frame? It appears to be an important issue as this dictates the A and B gear match up.

I know when I first received my 130x, it was a few mm (1or 2 never did measure) from being completely seated into frame. I went ahead and pushed the boom in tight to frame. which makes A-B gear a tighter fit (maybe too tight?). As easily as these plastic gears diminish during routine flights, it would be nice to know some solid facts about boom placement for minimal gear wear.

Thanks again for jumping on the forum and providing us info. Much appreciated!!
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:27 AM   #24
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No crashes and on the 5th flight the tail blade shot off or the pin on the pitch slider broke off causing it to piro out of control. After it hit it broke a ball off one of the blade grips and bent the tail shaft. So I bought new tail blades, pitch slider, tail shaft, main blades grips, and a canopy mount which I lost while walking the heli from the truck to a table without the canopy on.

Put all the new parts on and I get the tail resonance sound all the time at any throttle position and so I started another thread about that. Its just been sitting on the table since I've been too busy to take apart and go through everything. But I'll probably mess with it tonight.

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Old 07-11-2012, 08:36 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian James View Post
As I mentioned I would yesterday, I tried my old DX7se this morning. It bound exactly as it should (in my office, not outside). I then unplugged the battery and turned off my transmitter. Through a number of turning on, plugging in cycles, I discovered that IF I turned my transmitter on, and IMMEDIATELY pluged in the battery to the helicopter, the helicopter would enter bind mode. So with a bit of experimenting, I found that it was best to wait for a few seconds (5?) before plugging in the battery. Doing so, I got a perfect initialization every time (20+ times)

So...in my limited scientific tests, I concluded that turning on the transmitter, and waiting 5 seconds before plugging in my battery resulted in a prefect initialization.
That's funny because I was having this bind issue, until I read the little note that is included with all the paperwork about how to turn on the transmitter, wait 5 seconds and then plug in the heli. I haven't had the problem since.
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:53 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowcelica@gmail.com View Post
That's funny because I was having this bind issue, until I read the little note that is included with all the paperwork about how to turn on the transmitter, wait 5 seconds and then plug in the heli. I haven't had the problem since.

It is working perfectly as design and intended.... all small auto bind models (no micro bind plugs)... At power-up Look for it's Tx GUID for 5 seconds, then (always) go into bind mode if not found.
The Tx must have time to boot and transmit before the Rx times out..
We do our best to get the 5 second instruction into every manual in order to inform the customers. (All DSM ultra micros have been that way since the beginning.)

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Old 07-11-2012, 09:01 AM   #27
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holly molly - i thought it was just a myth! but they are real all at once!
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:34 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowcelica@gmail.com View Post
That's funny because I was having this bind issue, until I read the little note that is included with all the paperwork about how to turn on the transmitter, wait 5 seconds and then plug in the heli. I haven't had the problem since.
Same thing will happen with any of the micros I do not know how many times I have had to unplug and plug my mcpx back in cause i turned on tx and plugged in batt to fast. So i unplug then re plug and it is fine, Recently got a DX8 and I do not know how many times I have had to unplug and plug batt back in to get it to come on solid blue light. Thought it had been about 5 secs but maybe not.

Good to see you here Posting James, and like others said were sure your hear on your own time, but I think HH should have one of you guys sitting on the PC most of the day answering our questions. i am sure you guys have sold lot more helis then you have had phone calls but For every 1 person on this site there about 8 that are not, Someone go into LHS buy this heli go home charge bind, fly, blade comes off causes crash, they go back to LHS buy parts, or leave heli there for the LHS to work on it, and they never understand the problems, LHS won't take the heli back cause HH says the store can't so then the new blade 130x owner is stuck with this heli that is broke after one flight.

I can not believe none of your beta heli pilots had any issues with this heli.
I know you can buy a bad anything, but man, Out of the people on here who have them and have not had issues and the ones who have I like to know 100% but bet there more with issues then w/o
this is suppose to be a take out of the box, charge bind, fly.

Not a Take out of box, charge and look complete heli over check every screw nut, everything, balance blades and put back together then bind and fly.

I have a MCPX V1 B grips, I love it, its my 2nd one. I have a Blade 450 3d that just went FBL with love it, But man I so wanted a 130X but to many issues for me, I canceled my order after the 3rd day of reading all the issues.
Now I am hoping to keep hearing good things about the 300X think that be the one I go for.
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:34 AM   #29
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Yesterday I spent an hour in my LHS and saw 2 130s come with tail rotor issues. The first one had the front drive gear just pop off (no crash), the second one had a hair line crack in pinion drive gear at the tail rotor, and lastly a 130 came in earlier according to the clerk with the tail shaft drive gear spinning under load on the tail rotor. BTW, I was there to buy a 130, guess what I left with. Koodos to the LHS for pulling parts from a new 130 in stock to fix the customer's 130.
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:26 PM   #30
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Brian,

Metal Gears for the C and the D gears are a must the sooner the better. It doesn't take nothing to spin those gears on their shafts. I've had them both at different times spin on the shaft during the first flight after installing them. And I don't do any 3D. I fly mostly big air with stall turns, loops, rolls and inverted flying.

If you cut a few blades of grass with the tail blades you'll spin them. That's ridiculous!

Until they get the metal gears ready, have them at least add an eight of a mill to the dimenstion across the flat at the end of the torque tube that the C gear goes on and on the flat the D gear goes on. They both need to be a press fit. Sure it make them harder to assemble, but the gears will last much longer.

Another issue that I'm sure a lot of guys have with these helis and probably don't even know it. The rotor head splits right on the mold line below the screw head that holds it on the rotor shaft. You have to look close and wiggle the rotor head while watching the mold line and you will see that it is cracked. I have two 130 X's. I noticed it on one, then looked at the other, it was the same and the second heli was never crashed. Not even a blade strike. They undercut the inside of the rotor head below the screw, for what reason? IDK? It should be the full thickness the whole length of the rotor head.

I hate to complain, it's an awesome little heli, great fun to fly. I just want you and your team to know that I too like many others am having issues.

I hope that Microheli and Rakonheli are watching these forums. We need hop-ups, pronto!
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Old 07-11-2012, 02:44 PM   #31
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What needs to be answered is how so many have so many issues? I mean obviously it was in development for sometime, so how long was this design tested by real pilots? It could not have been long IMO as surely HH has to be eating a ton of profit and is creating alot of pi$$ed customers with this. Great service and so on great,, but that's not the solution. Having a solid product that's been thoroughly tested then a good QC person ensuring production models follow a "proven" value design is the answer. There has been so much learned from many makers, past models, accurate feedback I think Eflite really effed up on the 130x and there should be a full recall and re release it in fall, heck even Xmas but make it worth 300 bones this time. :/

I ordered one awhile back still haven't got it. When I do Get it it I'm going to look it over very well, if is ok great if not I'll be one of those guys posting real deal as I absolutely hate being screwed for money that's hard to make.
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Old 07-11-2012, 04:34 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OICU812 View Post
What needs to be answered is how so many have so many issues? I mean obviously it was in development for sometime, so how long was this design tested by real pilots? It could not have been long IMO as surely HH has to be eating a ton of profit and is creating alot of pi$$ed customers with this. Great service and so on great,, but that's not the solution. Having a solid product that's been thoroughly tested then a good QC person ensuring production models follow a "proven" value design is the answer. There has been so much learned from many makers, past models, accurate feedback I think Eflite really effed up on the 130x and there should be a full recall and re release it in fall, heck even Xmas but make it worth 300 bones this time. :/

I ordered one awhile back still haven't got it. When I do Get it it I'm going to look it over very well, if is ok great if not I'll be one of those guys posting real deal as I absolutely hate being screwed for money that's hard to make.
My Dad used to be in "New Product Development" and he always used to insist that the first 10,000 units of any new product introduced to the market had better be the "best" product you make cuz those are the ones the buying public is likely to remember. I certainly think that HH product support is better than Walkera's (cuz Walkera's is pretty much non existent) but the introduction of new models from HH seems to be in lockstep with Walkera in that new models hit the show floor with significant inherent bugs and it would seem, not properly sorted. In that respect, what's been happening at both HH and Walkera seems to be symptomatic of a specific type of thought process or marketing strategy and which the HH people may not necessarily share. They just have to deal with it just as WOW Hobbies has t' deal with Walkera issues.

I am in complete accord with those who are frustrated in the "130" forum since you could merely change the name of the forum from "130X" to "V120 / 4G6" and only the names of those who post would change..................the issues are similar in so many ways. Basically and no matter what one's expectations or skill level in this hobby, if you drop $300 on something and experience immediate issues with it and through no fault of your own, that's not "right" any way you slice it. In the Walkera forum though and no matter how many of us bitched about any number of issues, we kept sending in our money and asking for more..................and just hoping that the "next" new model would finally resolve all past inherent issues.
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Old 07-11-2012, 04:48 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian James View Post
So...in my limited scientific tests, I concluded that turning on the transmitter, and waiting 5 seconds before plugging in my battery resulted in a prefect initialization.
Thanks for testing. I also noticed the note in the box and make a habit of waiting at least 5 seconds after Tx power on before plugging in the model as noted earlier. This did not resolve my issue.

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Originally Posted by Gregor99 View Post
Other things I've tried is waiting more than 5 seconds after the DX7 has been powered up as well ensuring Tx and model are not too close.
After my replacement parts arrive, I'll engage HH Product Support if it continues to be an issue. Not that its scientific, but I have an mCPX and mSR which do not have these issues, even if I don't wait the full 5 seconds using the same transmitter.
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:35 PM   #34
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holly molly - i thought it was just a myth! but they are real all at once!
Reminds me of the M&M's Santa Claus commercial.... "<gasp> he does exist!".
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:09 AM   #35
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I have now had the 130x for about 2 weeks. It is a great heli when it is flying. My flying style is sport flying with big loops with aerobatics no hard 3D stuff. NO crashes only the ones from part failures. Like many I have had a number of issues.

I checked the heli out and greased all the bearings before I flew it. Had very little vibrations and after a little subtrim it was good to go. During the fifth flight I had one of the Tail blade grips fly off causing it to piro out of control and was able to safely land in tall grass. so no damage. I found the tail grip and after looking at it, it looked as though it split on the back side of the grip where the screw threads in causing it to snap.

HH sent me replacements and it happened again this morning . This can not be from over tightening because the blades a floppy. Has anyone else had this happen?

I also had the main rotor head split at the seam as mentioned and this also happened to my Tail casing near the flanged bearings. I love this heli when it is flying but the quality control on this is very POOR!!! The white tail gear at the end of the TT has stripped out about 5 times and just spins on the TT. If any of you are getting tail blow out this is the main cause. This needs to be a metal gear. Better off HH should create a TT with a fixed metal gear on the tail end side.

A must have upgrade is the optional metal gear. When I am order new parts I order two of everything knowing I will need them.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:43 AM   #36
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Default Tail resonance

The size of the 130X is what first attracted me to the heli. It's perfect for indoor winter flying, keeping your chop up for the better weather to arrive. The hobby shop warned me of the resonance problem and assured me that by sliding the tail servo to neutral position would make the problem minimal. I did so as soon as I got home. The result was it slightly removed a little bit of the problem. I was disappointed that the same people that created the 450X ( a wonderful heli) could be so insensitive to a huge problem. I think they get the wrong impression from the flyers. We are inherently mechanics by nature and would like the product succeed, so we quite reluctantly put up with the problem. When I first experience the vibration I want to run back to the hobby shop and demand my money back. The mechanic in me was saying this could be a great heli maybe I can fix it. But it should be up to us enthusiasts to fix HH's serious problem. This problem is the reason for short bearing life and gears stripping out. I have never bought such an inferior product from a quality company before. I certainly hope they take fixing this problem serious. It's troublem some to watch them blo it off as normal. I have been flying for over 50 years and I can assure the that it is not normal or minimal.
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:48 PM   #37
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What ended spool up and down vibrations for me (using soft start IU and TH to power down):
  • Extended boom supports to about 4/5th down the boom
  • dynamically balance tail blade with scotch tape
  • CF TT

Everything else is stock and I have a slight pitch in tail blades at neutral rudder to counteract torque.

I still had slight vibration with above. Once I installed metal A gear, all vibrations were gone. This may also had to do with having to take my frame apart and I made sure the boom was inserted all the way. I also noticed play in shaft was gone with metal A gear.
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:43 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by jrwalte View Post
What ended spool up and down vibrations for me (using soft start IU and TH to power down):
  • Extended boom supports to about 4/5th down the boom
  • dynamically balance tail blade with scotch tape
  • CF TT

Everything else is stock and I have a slight pitch in tail blades at neutral rudder to counteract torque.

I still had slight vibration with above. Once I installed metal A gear, all vibrations were gone. This may also had to do with having to take my frame apart and I made sure the boom was inserted all the way. I also noticed play in shaft was gone with metal A gear.
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