Throttle calibration help

[mvert]

Yes I did, but thanks for the reminder

[Shabill]

OK, I'm programming the endpoints on my Ice Lite 50, and I just need to clarify one thing to be sure I understand this correctly. Everything I'm reading, including instructions from Castle say that programming the endpoints allows the ESC to "know the exact location of zero and full throttle." Strictly speaking, this isn't accurate, is it? Really what's happening is that we have to teach our radios the exact location of the ESC's endpoints, right? It's just strange because to the best of my recollection, this isn't the way it works with surface controllers. Every surface ESC I've programmed (again, to the best of my recollection) is smart enough to figure out the endpoints (100/100, or whatever you set it to) in your radio; all you have to do is show the ESC where the endpoints are. You don't have to go through this crazy procedure where you can wind up setting endpoints on your radio at wacky settings like 93/114.

[johnahamelv]

Originally Posted by Shabill

You don't have to go through this crazy procedure where you can wind up setting endpoints on your radio at wacky settings like 93/114.

I believe the reason why you are ending up with 93/114 is because you may have the Autorotation box checked.

[Shabill]

With or without it checked, the point is the same ... we are teaching the radio the endpoint of the ESC, not the other way around.

[johnahamelv]

They point that I am trying to convey is that having the CC Autorotation box checked will make the low throttle setting substantially higher than 100%.

[Shabill]

Correct; and I have that box checked.

But the point that I was trying to make is that I'm not sure why Castle cannot make an ESC that could be programmed to learn your endpoints at 100/0/100, regardless of whether you have autorotation (or any other feature) enabled. They do it in their surface ESCs.

[nmdesertracer]

The way I look at it your not teaching the ESC the endpoints. What your doing is going into setup mode procedure when the stick is at full and you start from 30. then go down to no throttle and start from 30 till you arm your esc. Your just setting the high and low endpoints in your radio. Now on my Tekins ESC for my RC cars you have to teach the esc the endpoints with the controller..

[DaweMD]

I have tried each way that was listed in previous posts and nothing seems to work for me. I did the rebind, tried using seperate power packs - nothing works. I am running the DX8 and the AR7200BX as well as a CC BEC. The heli is a 450 pro with all stock servo's and motor. WHen i am at high stick i get no steady flashing light, It beeps and flashes a red light every couple of mins but thats it. I can max out the endpoint but nothing happens. Is it the esc thats screwed or am I still doing something wrong. I also disabled the hold button. I have gone through the programing with the castle link and I don't have the auto rotate button checked. I have also upgraded to the 4.01 firmware.

Any suggestions??

[Scured]

May sound dumb but make sure ya don't have the esc plugged into the beastx upside down

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk 2

[yamahajoe]

i am having issues with calibration also. it worked fine with my dx6i. i now have a dx8. i set a linear throttle curve. i have tried rebinding and arming the beastx first. with atvs at 30 and throttle stick high the esc arms instead of going into program mode. trex 450 on 6s with beastx and separate bec. i have the esc set to fixed endpoints and no auto rotation. when i first started trying to do this it would go into program mode but i could set high all the way to 150 and it would never beeb. help please.

[johnahamelv]

Originally Posted by yamahajoe

i am having issues with calibration also. it worked fine with my dx6i. i now have a dx8. i set a linear throttle curve. i have tried rebinding and arming the beastx first. with atvs at 30 and throttle stick high the esc arms instead of going into program mode. trex 450 on 6s with beastx and separate bec. i have the esc set to fixed endpoints and no auto rotation. when i first started trying to do this it would go into program mode but i could set high all the way to 150 and it would never beeb. help please.

Looks to me that the ESC is not going into programming mode. My best guess is that even though you have your DX8 "ON", linear throttle curve(s) 0-25-50-75-100, and throttle stick high, you may have the TH engaged (switch towards you) when connecting the battery to the ESC. If so, just make sure to disengage TH (switch away from you) on the DX8, before powering the ESC. Hope this works.

[Foxs]

I have the same problem. I have a Trex 250 with CC25, AR7200BX and DX6i Transmitter. I have got a separate RX battery to power up the BX to bypass the initialisation process.

First set up your CC ESC using the software. Specifically for Throttle Calibration, do the following:

(1) Choose Fixed End Points (You'll choose Governor only after calibration with Fixed End Points) CHECK

(2) Decide whether to check the Autorotation box. Considering that you ended up with a ATV of 124, I assume that you checked the box. If you later decide to change the status of this box, you'll have to redo this whole procedure. CHECK (NO AUTO)

(3) Disconnect the ESC from your computer and/or battery pack CHECK

Now, set up your transmitter:

(1) Set Throttle ATV or Travel to 30% for both high and low stick (I start with 50%). CHECK
move my throttle up adjust to 30%
move my throttle down adjust to 30%

(2) Make sure to have a linear throttle curve (0% to 100) for the Normal FM. CHECK

(3) Do not engage TH. Stay with Normal FM. CHECK

Set up the helicopter:

(1) It is important that all 3 wires of the electric motor are connected, so that you can hear the beeps. CHECK

(2) The motor is definitely going to run if you calibrate the Autorotation bail out. Use whatever safety precautions. CHECK

Now, start the calibration.
(1) Turn ON transmitter and have Throttle Stick on High CHECK

(2) Connect the battery to ESC and electronics CHECK (after powering the BX)

(3) Increase the value of the ATV/Travel until you hear the "beep". Increase the value 2 more clicks. If you go down on the value once you hear the "beep", the motor may start spinning.

Here is where my problem starts, i increase my travel adjustment slowly and when I have reach 125% i didn't hear any sound.
P.S. The ESC does a single beep and a LED flash every 20seconds.

(4) Bring the Throttle Stick to low position. Again, increase the ATV/Travel until you hear the "beep" and increase value 2 more points. If you checked the Autorotation box, this value will most likely be over 100%. Mine is 117%.

When i move the throttle down and start increasing the travel adjustment on my dx6i, when i get to about 60% my motor suddenly starts up without any notice before hand i.e. beeping or anything. As i increase the travel adjustment higher the motor spins slower and slower till i reach about 90% and the motor stops completely and Nothing happens when i reach the end 125% on my travel adjustment either.

[yamahajoe]

that is how mine is doing. i cannot figure out what is going on.

[yamahajoe]

i went back and turned on auto rotation and mine will go into calibration mode but i can turn endpoints all the way to 150 and nothing. i went back and turned auto rotation off and it will not go into calibration mode.

[rebeltrousers]

Apparently the Ar7200BX isn't always straightforward:
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=430915

Might help?

[yamahajoe]

has anyone with this same problem tried doing a reset on the beastx and then try to calibrate throttle. i have not tried it yet but was thinking it might work. just don't want to do a reset for nothing.

[red_1030]

I had some problems last night with throttle calibration ( ice 100, dx8, ar7200bx). I ended up having to factory reset the ice 100 and BX. then i re bound the TX and BX, used two separate flight packs to power the BX and ice100. i ended up with 126 low and 95 high (auto bailout enabled)

[R3L72]

Originally Posted by ryem3

When I did mine, I had to move pretty quickly from the high end point setting to get to the low end point to set it.
However, I set my high endpoint at 97, but my low endpoint at 129! Seemed pretty weird. This is an ICE 100 and I can't get the ICE link to work. The prior owner told me it was set up for autorotation and governor control. It seemed to be set up right, but the numbers are odd- I presume it has something to do with the autorotation. I actually don't plan to use autorotation and will just set the TH curve to zero. I need to test the motor response once I remove the pinion from the gear. Does the ICE link work only when the battery is connected and the unit is armed?

Originally Posted by johnahamelv

My ICE100 connects to the computer without needing to connect a battery. My 120HV and 160HV require that I connect a battery in other to connect to the computer.

Originally Posted by cwall64

On my 600EFL Pro, AR7200BX, and DX8 the endpoints were right around 100% for high, but had to go 145% on low to arm - does that sound correct? The ICE2 80HV is out of the box, haven't used Castle Link or changed anything from the factor defaults.

Question: I'm trying to do this Throttle Calibration thing with the Ice Lite 50 ESC, AR6110e receiver, and DX8 transmitter. On my DX8, it would only allow adjustment of the first '100' on the Travel Adjust menu but it wouldn't allow me to adjust the second '100' value...is that right?

[rasman2k]

I'm just reposting what worked for me with the AR7200BX and DX8....I had so many similar problems with not getting the calibration to work, having to go full thorttle then low throttle to arm ESC etc but some chap called Waff came up with this and I followed it to the letter and it worked perfectly:

Here is a procedure that will work to setup your ICE ESC with your AR7200BX, without using a separate power supply. This procedure was done with a DX7 radio, so make adjustments where needed for your radio. This procedure does not care if your equipment is brand new or well used, previously calibrated or not. It will work. This assumes you are running the ICE in governor mode. You may or may not use Auto Rotate feature, that’s up to you. You may or may not like the Fail Safe feature, but it matters not. It is there, so you must deal with it. Follow this procedure step by step, and it will work every time. Here we go:


- Before you start, remove your rotor blades and tail blades!
- Set Throttle Curve for ST-1 to (70,INH,70,INH,70)
- Set Throttle Curve for ST-2 to (100,INH,100,INH,100)
- Set Flight Mode to Norm
- Set Throttle Curve for Norm to linear (0,INH,50,INH,100)
- Adjust Travel Adjust for Throttle to H=0, L=0
- Battery unplugged
- Radio off
- Put Bind plug in Bind slot on AR7200BX
- Plug battery in
- Hold down Bind button on back of DX7
- Continue to hold down Bind button while turning on Radio
- Continue to hold down Bind button until flashing light on AR7200BX (or on satellite) turns solid (this light is down by the servo plugs)
- When light is solid, Bind is done
- Remove Bind plug
- Unplug battery
- Radio off
- Radio on
- Plug battery in
- Move throttle stick to High (full throttle, all the way up)
- Raise Travel Adjust H until the motor beeps
- Raise Travel Adjust H two more clicks
- Move throttle stick to Low (zero throttle, all the way down)
- Raise Travel Adjust L until the motor beeps
- Raise Travel Adjust L two more clicks
- ICE ESC is now calibrated for throttle
- Set Throttle Curve for Norm to (0,INH,0,INH,0)
- Flight Mode is still in Norm
- Unplug Battery
- Radio off
- Put Bind plug in Bind slot on AR7200BX
- Plug battery in
- Hold down Bind button on back of DX7
- Continue to hold down Bind button while turning on Radio
- Continue to hold down Bind button until flashing light on AR7200BX (or on satellite) turns solid (this light is down by the servo plugs)
- When light is solid, Bind is done
- Remove Bind plug
- Unplug battery
- Radio off
- Radio on
- If you are NOT using Auto Rotate feature, set Throttle Curve for Norm to (30,INH,30,INH,30)
- If you are NOT using Auto Rotate feature, set your Throttle Hold to 0
- If you are NOT using Auto Rotate, you are done
- Everything after this step is only needed if you are using Auto Rotate feature
- Throttle Curve for Norm should still be set to (0,INH,0,INH,0)
- Flight Mode still in Norm
- Throttle Hold is OFF
- Set Throttle Hold to 0
- Plug in Battery
- Wait for ICE to initialize
- Throttle Hold ON
- Raise Throttle Hold setting until the heli starts to spool up
- Lower Throttle Hold setting until the heli stops
- Unplug Battery
- Radio off
- Put Bind plug in Bind slot on AR7200BX
- Plug battery in
- Flight Mode still in Norm
- Throttle Hold OFF
- Hold down Bind button on back of DX7
- Continue to hold down Bind button while turning on Radio, after turning on radio, immediately switch on Throttle Hold
- Continue to hold down Bind button until flashing light on AR7200BX (or on satellite) turns solid (this light is down by the servo plugs)
- This bind with Throttle Hold ensures that if you have a signal loss the AR7200BX will output your Throttle Hold setting and not your Low Throttle setting. That way when the signal comes back, the ICE will quickly spool up to speed again.
- When light is solid, Bind is done
- Remove Bind plug
- Your are done

Waff

[R3L72]

Using a CC Ice Lite 50 ESC, DX8, and AR6110e receiver on a Flybarred Heli...does the Throttle Trim on the main screen stay 'Centered' or do I need to lower the Throttle Trim all the way down during setup?

Reason I'm asking is that as I get into more complex Heli Setup's I'm find that flybarless controllers want Throttle trim centered and BnF Helis like the BLADE 450 3D require the Throttle Trim centered but 10% on the Thottle Hold value.

Before I try another Bind and Throttle Calibration using Waff's process, I just need some clarification so that I don't destroy my kit.