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Old 07-09-2012, 02:57 PM   #1
helo
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Question Shortening Plug Wires...

Is it ok to trim (shorten) the plug wire that plugs into the Rx
on servos and ESCs, and recrimp new connectors?
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Old 07-10-2012, 02:45 PM   #2
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Absolutely it's ok. One of my peeves in the pics I see with all the wires bundled, tiewrapped,taped up. I'm not even a big fan of the coiled wiring.

Take a look at the braided wire covering also. Makes for a nice clean installation. Leave yourself a 2-3" service loop so you don't put a strain on the wire and you have a little slack for maintenance purposes. Also get a good crimper. HJere's one that a lot are using:
http://www.hansenhobbies.com/product...ools/crimp_dx/
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Old 07-26-2012, 05:37 AM   #3
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no, it's not ok to use crimp style connectors. no exceptions
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Old 07-27-2012, 05:32 PM   #4
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Quote:
no, it's not ok to use crimp style connectors. no exceptions
?????????

I build all my own servo extensions and shorten servo leads to fit my helis for a nice neat wiring job. +1 to wanderer56's comment. Everything for building servo leads uses a crimp style connector. You can get wire, connectors and the crimping tool from servoandstuff.com, this is where I get my supplies from.
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Old 08-01-2012, 11:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzyzx View Post
no, it's not ok to use crimp style connectors. no exceptions


Crimped connectors are the best sort for anything that moves or vibrates much (electrical properties are the same as a soldered links and mechanical ones are superior). There is a reason the vast majority of connectors in things like cars (and aircraft) are crimped.

The secret is to use a proper crimp tool for that type of connector (and no pliers are NEVER the right tool).
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Old 08-01-2012, 11:31 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzyzx View Post
no, it's not ok to use crimp style connectors. no exceptions
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:21 PM   #7
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Guy's. I just wanted to put up some pictures of how to shorten your servo wires for a NICE clean heli look. I've done TONS AND TONS of these. So i thought i would share.

If you wish to have a pair or a few servo wires shortened or anything electronic because you don't wish to do it. PM ME I'll help ya.

When you build a R/C Car or Heli, "usually" the servo wires are way to long. In my case on the Trex 500 they were way to long, from factory they are 13". I took one out and measured for how long I needed it, then took the servo apart and shortened the wire, now its the perfect length and no access wire in the chassis, looking to get chewed up..

Pics.

Side of the T500,


Bottom cover off the Mini Servo




Now it's done.



If you wish to do it your self, one AWESOME TIP, use electrical tape around the TOP part of the servo, so you don't have to rebuild the servo / take it apart OR loose any pins / gears.

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Old 08-07-2012, 12:54 PM   #8
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I'll cut and re-crimp to shorten.

One thing I do though, is tin the servo wire before I crimp it, then touch it with the iron for a few seconds once crimped and re-flow it. Especially on the thin crap wire that's usually on micro servos.

If I didn't use the el-cheap-o $3 crimper, I may be able to eliminate that step
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Old 08-07-2012, 02:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeW View Post

One thing I do though, is tin the servo wire before I crimp it, then touch it with the iron for a few seconds once crimped and re-flow it. Especially on the thin crap wire that's usually on micro servos.
That is one of the best tips I got in ages !!! Great great idea

I love clean and nice wiring, always use wire braiding and shorten the leads.
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Old 08-09-2012, 12:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeW View Post
I'll cut and re-crimp to shorten.

One thing I do though, is tin the servo wire before I crimp it, then touch it with the iron for a few seconds once crimped and re-flow it. Especially on the thin crap wire that's usually on micro servos.

If I didn't use the el-cheap-o $3 crimper, I may be able to eliminate that step
Id rather re-solder inside the servo. I've been soldering for many many years so it's no issue for me.
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Old 08-09-2012, 12:43 PM   #11
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Yes, me too...

but with a micro servo like the DS410 shortening at the plug is really the better choice for me with those servos.
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Old 08-09-2012, 12:47 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeW View Post
Yes, me too...

but with a micro servo like the DS410 shortening at the plug is really the better choice for me with those servos.
That was a small servo for my t500, but then again the sure are smaller ones. I can do any soldering I have about 5 soldering stations along with smd stuff.
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Old 08-10-2012, 01:15 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeW View Post
If I didn't use the el-cheap-o $3 crimper, I may be able to eliminate that step
Yes, a proper crimper actually applies so much pressure it welds the wire to the connector (even the decent handheld ones) so soldering would be pointless.
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Old 08-10-2012, 01:21 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertstalker View Post
Yes, a proper crimper actually applies so much pressure it welds the wire to the connector (even the decent handheld ones) so soldering would be pointless.
Not to sure what your smoking over there, but that is some false information. Please don't put that stuff into my thread.
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Old 08-11-2012, 08:46 PM   #15
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All connections should be mechanically secure before soldering, if that's news to you, you're doing it wrong. Solder is not glue.
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Old 08-14-2012, 12:48 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by zzyzx View Post
All connections should be mechanically secure before soldering, if that's news to you, you're doing it wrong. Solder is not glue.
Solder is stronger than many "glues" and done correctly will provide some mechanical stability. Its not as strong as a crimp though especially if cyclical loading (fatigue) is a factor.

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Not to sure what your smoking over there, but that is some false information. Please don't put that stuff into my thread.
False information is it... hmm better toss that engineering text on pressure welds then, it was expensive too .
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Old 08-15-2012, 10:47 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeW View Post
I'll cut and re-crimp to shorten.

One thing I do though, is tin the servo wire before I crimp it, then touch it with the iron for a few seconds once crimped and re-flow it. Especially on the thin crap wire that's usually on micro servos.

If I didn't use the el-cheap-o $3 crimper, I may be able to eliminate that step
Fantastic tip, I shall be doing this.
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Old 08-15-2012, 07:42 PM   #18
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Fantastic tip, I shall be doing this.
You shouldn't. Its a bad idea, especially on small wires.

The solder makes them brittle so they break off just past the crimp. Get a decent crimping tool and that is all you need.
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Old 08-15-2012, 08:46 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertstalker View Post
You shouldn't. Its a bad idea, especially on small wires.

The solder makes them brittle so they break off just past the crimp. Get a decent crimping tool and that is all you need.
UM crimping little wires does the same as making them brittle. Only reason why they have crimp on ends is so they can make a connector THATS It nothing else is crimped. Crimps can become really bad on any heli because of the vibrations etc etc. Id go for soldering the wires on to the PCB inside the servo..
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Old 08-16-2012, 07:11 PM   #20
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Quote:
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UM crimping little wires does the same as making them brittle.
Actually it doesnt, as the strands are still separate (not all stuck together with solder once they exit the crimp.

If your crimped connections are failing on a heli then you need a better crimping tool. Crimps are the standard connection for environments where some vibration is an issue. For really high vibration environments (mining equipment for example) you often crimp the wires and then "pot" the entire connection in epoxy or similar right up to the thick outer sheath that will be on the cable, but that is serious overkill for a RC heli.

Soldering to a board is the same as soldering to a connector, the solder still wicks up the wire making it less flexible and more prone to fail.
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