DX6i-Backlight Mod-Tutorial

[hobbes22]

Best. Mod. Ever. Did it today. Massive improvement, should be standard. Thanks for tutorial.

[geekindenial]

I did mine today too. Fantastic tutorial. Thanks a lot for the excellent thread :-)

[Bill_A]

I really like this mod too. The stock plastic is incredibly soft and scratches extremely easily.

http://tmkarc1hobby.com/radios/spekt...spektrum-dx6i/

Bill

[CTYankee15]

Where did you get that switch?

Anyone have to get their radio serviced? I don't suppose they work on them once you do this. Certainly not under warrantee.

Originally Posted by geekindenial

I did mine today too. Fantastic tutorial. Thanks a lot for the excellent thread :-)

[320pilot]

Timatworksg
Thanks for this thread. I did a similar mod to my DX-7 today. I used this kit from AProHobbies.
http://www.aprohobbies.com/transmitt...ight-c-31.html

Unfortunately, when I went to carefully remove the ribbon (from screen) to the mother board, the grey nylon clip popped out of the retainer. So I ended up with this (see first pic)! Grey nylon clip loose on the counter.

I only saw your instructions later today.

With the screen facing down on something clean and soft, you will see a ribbon connector from the LCD screen into the mainboard, held by a thin brown plastic piece! Grab the jewellers screwdriver (Flat Head) and pry apart the brown plastic GENTLY, just enough so that it juts out a little. You wouldn't want to pop it out as it's held in there with it's small clips. *IF like me, when I did a previous Tx, I popped it out...and broke one clip!* BUT..no harm as it's a shove in type connector which sandwiches the ribbon cable in.

When I had the ribbon cable inserted at the end, I carefully re-inserted the grey nylon clip to hold the ribbon in place. Got everything together finally. Are the clips at the ends you mentioned metal? If so I will have to find them in the TX before I use it. No clips now (see first pic)

I hope this thin brown plastic piece will hold the ribbon in place, even with the "clips" missing..
Wish I had read your instructions, regarding loosening the brown plastic piece first.

[timatworksg]

@320pilot
It's never to late to read anything..lol! As for your question, nope those clips are not metal. They are tiny strips of the same plastic as the piece that wedges the ribbon cable in. As long as you managed to shove the plastic piece in all the way and its wedging the ribbon cable, no worries. The ribbon cable is not tensioned enough to pop it put again. If anything, it's Hot Glue to the rescue!! Squirt a little on a toothpick and place that small glue blob on the corners after wedging the cable in. It'll hold everything in till the glue drops off!...lol! Alternative is modelling clay where you can pinch a small piece of clay, roll a tiny ball and press it into the corner. Do likewise for the other corner and it'll dry up nicely!

As for the rest, sorry I don't come in here often as I fly planes and scratchbuild foamies now. Cheaper crash payout for me...
But I will from time to time pop in to see whats up!! Great to see more backlights lighting up the world! I'm still wondering how much cost savings would HH have to add in to just do this for the Dx6i's in the near future! Backlights are everywhere from watches to calculators, etc etc...heck even a cellphone is cheaper than a Tx!! I was dissapointed when no light was added to the Dx7s! Aww man!

[320pilot]

Thanks timatworksg

The written instructions from AProHobbies, that came with their DX-7 backlight kit, said to

"Little by little slowly push one end of the plastic tab in the direction shown and then the other end, keep doing that back and forth until the tab comes out."

So I kept working the tab until it popped out. Exactly as instructed. Bad instructions!

ps. I'm mostly flying composite sailplanes, hotliners and foamy warbirds now. Still have my Trex 500 and 450.

[dmccalmon]

I don't fly helis, but I registered on this site just to say thanks for the awesome tutorial. It made this mode a breeze.

I plan to add a switch at a later date, but for now this works perfect.

Thanks,
Don

[320pilot]

I think more owners of radios are going to be willing to do these backlight mods. The results are worth a bit of careful soldering. My only concern was toasting the screen, or Tx and losing the programing I have in my DX-7 for 17 aircraft and helis!
There are easier ways to get a backlight screen, like the kit I used from aprohobbies. I didn't have to cut any wires, only solder two wires to the mother board. It included a dimension engineering voltage regulator so screen brightness is constant.

Of course the kit costs a bit more

[gruntdog]

Thanks for the great tutorial

Another successful backlight mod done on my dx6i

Makes using the screen so much more visible

[ashemo]

I just ordered my kit last night, and these instructions will make this install a breeze.

Question: How many of you folks who added this think it's too bright at night? Would a "bright/dim" switch be a welcome addition?

Andy

P.S. A 3mm red LED just might find it's way into the "dot" in the "DX6i" logo as well, to serve as a power-on indicator.

P.P.S. Anything else I should consider doing while I'm inside this rig?

[LocoMartin]

I just ordered my back light unit and waiting for it to arrive. Just wondering how long it takes air mail to get from there to Northeast Ohio, USA. Their website says it can take up to 45 days. Hmmmm, by then winter will almost be over....lol
Martin

[Dr. M]

I fly at night and my back light with a custom, lower resistor isn't too bright at all. I didn't add an off switch, but that's definitely something to consider.

Shipping depends on which type you selected: EMS can be pretty fast (5-7days), while regular mail can take 3 weeks or more.

[ashemo]

Thanks, Doc.

I'm sure I'll experiment (it's just how I'm wired), but could you tell us what value you used to dim it down?

Andy

[Dr. M]

I actually made it brighter; soldered a 301-Ohm "0805" SMT resistor to the positive solder point inside the DX6i, then soldered the red wire from the back light to the other side of the resistor. Give a little more brightness than with the OEM 470-Ohm resistor.

[ashemo]

Ah, got it. I misread your post.
OK. Thanks.

Andy

[LocoMartin]

Evening group,
Ooops just looked at the clock....aaaa Good morning group.
My back light came this afternoon. I got started on it, but had to leave for a while but when I got back home, I continued with the modification. Instead of the 3M tape I used three Command wall hanging strips. I cut the little tab off which allows you to remove the strip when done using. And instead of hot glue, I used clear DAP Kwik Seal Plus. I also decided to put in a 10K, on/off/dimmer knob. I located the knob under the left stick and to the left of the orange logo which is left of the screen. I was going to put just a dimmer switch in, but figured that if I ever wanted to turn the back light off, I could. No real extra effort or work, just one extra wire as a jumper from the on/off to the pot. Works very nice.
Thanks so much for sharing this mod.
Martin

[ashemo]

Sounds great, Martin! Need some pics! Wouldn't mind knowing where you picked up the parts, too (Radio Shack, maybe?)

Andy

P. S. I messed up and ordered some LED's that were on BO, so I'm a'waitin.

[LocoMartin]

Here are a couple of pics. One is of full bright and the other is full dim.
The pot I got from a local electronics house called Philcap Electronics. They are not a chain or franchise, just a guy with an electronics palace.Unfortunately I have had it for a while and used it in other projects and then pulled it out. So I don't have a number.




Martin

[ashemo]

Thanks, Martin. Looks great!
I was considering the same location for a hi/lo switch or pot, but I thought the heel of my hand might hit it. Mine will probably end up on top of the radio along with another for the beeper volume.

Andy

P.S. I thought 10K might be too high a value, but it looks perfect. I think I have one of those floating around in my parts bin as well!