Big Bump!

[GimpyGolden]

Had an ESC shutdown today and unexpected auto from 80'+.
By the time I realized power loss I'd already lost a good bit of head speed and was far out,

With no forward momentum it was a straight decent, held Collective at 1/4 stick and waited as long as possible to flare since HS was lowww.
Came down on skids, hard. Bounced 3' then boom strike and tip over.

Unbelievable the small amount of damage.
1 main blade
1 tail blade
Boom
Tail Control Rod
Tail Servo Gear
Boom Clamp
Tail Hub(Damn you Magcheezium hub)

That's it. If you saw the way it went in you'd of thought major repair bill comin' up as I did.
Very pleasantly surprised.

Now to troubleshoot the cause of the shut down...

[Rob43]

"Good" to hear, I guess.

I too had a shutdown while at IRCHA, but was coming out of inverted and retained enough headspeed to land on the skids. Cracked tail fin, and one stripped nylon JR servo horn.

Ultimately discovered it was my recent change over to Anderson Power Poles. Once I get them out and can take a better pic, I will post my result. Honestly, I think they might be fine if I replaced them, and added a spark arrestor and started over. They handle the current fine, but not the oxidation from sparking. Oh well. I hate EC5's but not sure what else to use.

[GimpyGolden]

Sorry to hear bout your bump, sounds like you came out alright though considering.


I am using XT150's love em.
The price just dropped huge too.
http://epbuddy.com/index.php?main_pa...roducts_id=114

Never had any success with APP's in my car days. Sure not going to try em on my Heli's.

[crf69]

what esc and why did it shutdown? LVC?

[GimpyGolden]

HeliJive.

It's looking like I lost Rx and it went fail safe.
At time of shutdown it was pushing 284A though so...

[Ah Clem]

This is, obviously, something contagious and going around!

My Odin shut off on me almost immediately after take off-I punched it and started forward, then the engine cut out at around 50 feet while it was still going up.

I pulled the collective down to about 1/4, regained RPM and got it down flat with no damage.

Must be a seasonal helicopter disease that strikes both electric and glow ships!

Glad you guys got down with minimal damage!

[GimpyGolden]

Last flight of the day too.

We were out for 6hrs today and I got fly everything air worthy in my fleet today
Only flight of the day we had two machines up at once. I think had I been up alone I would have heard power cut right away and saved it.

With my new Helical now worn in I can't hear my machine over my buddies 700e, and I am running 1950 to his 1700.

[heathy]

I've been having shutdowns for 2 weeks now, 2 resulted in minor damage.

1, elev link and stripped servo horn
2. rear skids split in the middle. both pitch links
3. nothing

All of these caused by the switch to helical and a 560kv motor and 13t pinion. I was asking my esc for a stupid low currant draw

Just put a 4525 520 ultimate on and about to test today, fingers crossed

[GimpyGolden]

I posted in the V-Bar forum and Mr.Mel suggested loose Sat wire or static.
I checked over my Rx-V-Bar lead and while it wiggles quite easily it's not loose.

Will swap the lead and try again.

I hadn't considered static of the gear and have no classic static "Checksum Error"
How can you "ground" the gear train. You'd think it already would be through main shaft to frame. Will add a little grease to gear as well.

[Rob43]

Originally Posted by GimpyGolden

Sorry to hear bout your bump, sounds like you came out alright though considering.


I am using XT150's love em.
The price just dropped huge too.
http://epbuddy.com/index.php?main_pa...roducts_id=114

Never had any success with APP's in my car days. Sure not going to try em on my Heli's.

I thought of those immediately. I will think them over. I bought a bunch of EC5's while at IRCHA which would enable me to fly this week, but those might be best long term, as well as adding a spark arrest.

[GimpyGolden]

They are really smooth together and apart unlike EC5.
With bullet there's less of a need for anti-spark since only the tips get worn and not the service section of the connector.

Each bag does a 12S setup. Red and Black pairs for ESC and 1 red 1 black per pack. Then use the Blue remaining pack leads and connect for 12 cell series.

Like in my old thread on these.
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=387192

[heathy]

Originally Posted by Rob43

"Good" to hear, I guess.

I too had a shutdown while at IRCHA, but was coming out of inverted and retained enough headspeed to land on the skids. Cracked tail fin, and one stripped nylon JR servo horn.

Ultimately discovered it was my recent change over to Anderson Power Poles. Once I get them out and can take a better pic, I will post my result. Honestly, I think they might be fine if I replaced them, and added a spark arrestor and started over. They handle the current fine, but not the oxidation from sparking. Oh well. I hate EC5's but not sure what else to use.

Rob,

Thought you were kontronic?? don't they have a antispark??? My yge has one and i've never seen a spark let alone heard a pop. My contacts are like day 1.

[GimpyGolden]

No anti-spark on Kontronik no.

[Rob43]

First, cool tip, GG. You sold me. I gotsta getem.

Heathy - GG and You were right. I am Jive, but no SA. In fact, I see various models of thought onm arresting Jive. Sebastian saw me having the trouble at the field while he was testing his new Warp prototype. I flew EC5's for over a year before converting to APP. I know the APP's can handle the current, but there is no where near the contact area of something like EC5 or XT150's. It's never been a problem before. But it makes sense now. First, it powered down completely. I could not see my light on the Jive to see an alarm code. Then the next day, it was intermittently losing and recovering power. No blinking code on the Jive. It was just Sebastian and Luke's opinion that my APP's were the cause when they saw oxidation on the tips of the electrodes. I need to look them over closer to be sure I agree, but it makes sense to me. And it's easy to test as well. I think I could remove then leads from the housings. Sorry for hijacking, GG. Didn't mean to...and thanks for the link.

[GimpyGolden]

No prob Rob.
You'll like em I think. They used to be $9.95 a set at Epbuddy, really good deal now.

[heathy]

Originally Posted by Rob43

First, cool tip, GG. You sold me. I gotsta getem.

Heathy - GG and You were right. I am Jive, but no SA. In fact, I see various models of thought onm arresting Jive. Sebastian saw me having the trouble at the field while he was testing his new Warp prototype. I flew EC5's for over a year before converting to APP. I know the APP's can handle the current, but there is no where near the contact area of something like EC5 or XT150's. It's never been a problem before. But it makes sense now. First, it powered down completely. I could not see my light on the Jive to see an alarm code. Then the next day, it was intermittently losing and recovering power. No blinking code on the Jive. It was just Sebastian and Luke's opinion that my APP's were the cause when they saw oxidation on the tips of the electrodes. I need to look them over closer to be sure I agree, but it makes sense to me. And it's easy to test as well. I think I could remove then leads from the housings. Sorry for hijacking, GG. Didn't mean to...and thanks for the link.

I would rather buy a YGE than go back to soldering

[NRPY]

EC5s are the easiest connectors to solder, imo.

[heathy]

It's not the soldering that's the problem. It's the repeated flexing of the join that puts stress on them causing unseen problems. Then 1 day bang no more connection.


Sent from my iPhone 4s using tapatalk

[Rob43]

I hate dealing with solder overflow on to the exterior. I just converted over from EC5's on everything I have.

Now, here's the punch line, guys...it wasn't the APP's at all. My throttle cable was loose! L O L!!!! Glad I didn't tackle any more of them. Sure, they're easy to solder, but the exterior has to be perfect to snap into the housings. No thanks. I ordered the XT150's, and may do them over the winter, but I'd rather fly now.

[GimpyGolden]

Using a torch helps with overflow.
Or a high watt Iron (80w) right on the top rim then feed it in slow.

Sux you went to all that trouble for an easy fix. Do you secure your wires into V-Bar?